Honda Cars & Trucks - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

car drives ok, even for say 30mins? while driving he charge/battery lamp glow?(cluster) seems like car battery is low. causing BCM and cluster to fail. make sure battery (main) is fully charged then scan the PCM for errors. at OBD2 DLC port. the cluster is acting up. and 2 causes DC power is tool low or cluster is failing on the network or key switch failure? check all fuses first"? look at cars wiring for rodent damage? scan it, or get it scanned or get it serviced

That year of car should have an immobilizer on it which means when you fob breaks you have to get a new one and have it reprogrammed at the dealership because the immobilized chip is in the fob

Is it throwing any codes for a specific cylinder? Is the multiple misfire the only code? Have you replaced the spark plugs and wires recently? If you haven't I would try that. As well as checking your air filter. If that doesn't fix your issue I would next try checking your fuel pressure to the fuel rail and checking cylinder compression

There could be a few potential causes for the dash gauges not working on your 2003 Honda Civic. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the battery connections: Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Loose or corroded connections can cause electrical issues.
2. Check the ground connections: Make sure the ground connections for the dash gauges are clean and tight. A bad ground connection can cause electrical issues.
3. Check the voltage regulator: The voltage regulator is responsible for regulating the voltage to the gauges. If it's faulty, it can cause the gauges to stop working.
4. Check the instrument cluster: It's possible that there's an issue with the instrument cluster itself. You may need to have it inspected by a mechanic.
5. Check for a blown fuse: Although you've checked the fuses already, it's possible that one of them has blown. Double-check the fuse for the instrument cluster to make sure it's not the issue.

If none of these solutions work, it's best to have a professional mechanic diagnose and repair the issue. They will be able to use specialized tools and equipment to identify the problem and find a solution.

All crankshaft pulleys have to be pulled to be able to take the cover off

need to check codes and see if it has oil in it. and go from here.
if the computer sences low oil pressure it sets a rev limiter to try and save the engine. code P1259 i think. 4 or 6 cyl?

If you getting codes for the same thing on both sides of the engine you'll need to look at the parts before the fuel and air enter the engine. You need to look at the air intake system as well as the fuel parts. I'm assuming the air filter is new and clean? Sometimes the fix is that easy.Have you checked and cleaned the MAF sensor, (Mass Air Flow Sensor). This reads air flow levels into the engine and uses it to adjust fuel levels going to the engine.*Note* When you clean the MAF sensor use the correct cleaning spray and DO NOT go poking around inside the main opening. The MAF assembly uses a very fine wire as part of the sensor and this is VERY easy to damage.

dash HVAC heater fails. well there are only 2 causes. (macro viewed) engine bay or cab failures. engine is not hot 180F up. thermostat bad. we scan the PCM see PID data ECT is 150f and bingo bad stat. if stuck there. it is bad. end store and simple fix. new stat. all fuses checked for good. next is cause #2 cab parts failing in dash. heater box.

1. blower dead on high you never said it works/?
2. blend door struck on cold. bad damper hinge stuck or
3. bad blend door actuator motor dead.
4. dash controls bad.

there is a test for each case covered in the service manual, buy one>?

The terminology may be wrong ECM or ICM? https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+honda+odyssey.+ignition+control+module+location ..

Do you mean the Crankshaft Position Sensor? https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Honda+LX+Accord.crankshaft+position+sensor+wiring+diagram ..

I TOSS COIN LAND on 3.0L V6 J30a seriessee part 10 that is cam cog wheel backer platevideo shows it at take down. 15 is tdc1/2 pairhttps://youtu.be/f7hAXtuRB_Y?t=1494

not told does engine crank fast. keyed to crank.???? yes / no . if not say that first. the starter motor in a car is the best battery tester there is. so is starter dead./???????????? the IMMO on 90%of cars cuts fuel dead onlyl. on the 10% it cuts starter and fuel both dead many allow engine to run for 1 to10 seconds and stalls the IMMo can not be hacked, and is its A#1 top designed purpose to do that, to stop thieves dead. and works. all new cars have it and is mostly now mandated by laws. this car I think cranks if key is bad. but will not start all cars came with it new 2 new keys,working lost the 2nd.? we spend a huge amount of time here reading users guides to people lost. the manual is free to read. at any time , im reading yours now google found it is 1second flat and 1st hit. my posts are for USA cars only, nothing else ever. unless they beg, LOL the immo lamp is in the hot cold, fuel gauge port if the IP cluster i see a KEY icon there.it says read page 67 so I do. "This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). It will then go off if you have inserted a properly-coded ignition key. If it is not a properly- coded key, the indicator will blink and the engine will not start (see page 81" shows 2 immo keys and 1 valet key new "If an improperly- coded key (or other device) is used, the engine's fuel system is disabled When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the Immobilizer System indicator should come on for a few seconds, then go out. If the indicator starts to blink, it means the system does not recognize the coding of the key. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), remove the key, reinsert it, and turn the switch to ON (II) again." do not have other immo keys near the ignition switch just 1 honda immo only, not even other cars IMMO keys.near, (as the manual said) and is true. or the keys go to a loggerheads war (radio signals clash) free guide https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832826/Honda-2003-Civic.html?page=81#manual

are you trying to get heater working or A/C or just heater + defrost mode ( no whether there told) well the HVAC is failing it needs service. the service manual covers this chapter HVAC. The vent actuators can fail all these way. fuses all good. motor blower does spin fast, does it hear and felt on one of many vents. in recirc mode is best. if blower is dead , or silent the blower on HIGH (is it) on high the resistor block is BYPASSed. the blower resistor block is bad or blower dead. next mode motors (actuators) causes aplenty 1: fuses blown. easy 20cent fix. fuse 17? 2: damper shaft jammed. (we hand turn it ,proved) 3: motor on shaft dead bad. (mode dead?) 4: controls to motor dampers bad. 1997 Mode control motor Recirculation control motor and blend motor, all; air mixture motor the control panel as 5 switches for mode. and 5 wires and 1 ground we'd test all 5 modes to be sure the motor went to all 5 modes (eyes on motor) if not, we'd turn pull mode motor make sure the modes an all be tuned by hand. then if yes a news motor is needed. the logic for the controller only shows each 5 grounds the line for proper mode. the LED there can lie due to each mode switch has 2 switches for each mode. 10 total. if some modes work , the ground is good.g402

"All Honda engines are Interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-Interference."( but does not cover year 1990,) so is lie. (all means modern, not 1990) not told which 2.0L is there VIN or country. the names of gen3 car engines is here. IN USA (are you) we had the SOHC and DOHC engines. both,(options) they year some are. in Gas world, DOHC are mostly interference. there exceptions B20A/B20A1 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 160/143 PS (Japan/Europe) B20A3 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 104 hp North America B20A4 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 114 PS (84 kW)Global, except North America B20A5 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 135 hp (101 kW) North America (interference engine) B20A6 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 142 PS (104 kW) Oceania B20A7 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 150 PS (110 kW) Europe, New Zealand B20A8 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 133 PS (98 kW) Europe B20A9 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 140 PS (103 kW) Europe B21A - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 145 PS (107 kW) Japan (SI States) B21A1 - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 140 hp (104 kW) North America the truth is, we put on a new belt and do leak down test. if fails look for bent valves. NO belt there test. or super brave and by HAND only put crank and TDC mark 0 zero. at damper pulley edge scale turn the cam cog wheel (cam) by hand, with socket wrench feel of valves hit. ( all interference engines will) VVT on newer car is more complex answer but not here. there is always luck. belt slips a bit , retardds the cam and stalls before it hits. luck happens, like walking a cross a city street blind folded, I say why even ask, just do it. most DOHC engines with 10:1 compression ratio are interference, but if is the turbo version those are not. mostly, (vast engines types exist, and nobody knows that it seems) if you watch a 4cycle engine simulator see how the piston chases the exhaust valve closed the piston wins, on some engines it bends it. some engines with notched piston tops are free running engine. also honda's this old had the B20B swap put in. only you can read engine serials. b20b is interference. Do I have to say do not crank any engine for sure on any DOHC if the belt fails.(slips or snaps) do a leak down test. not cranking, my mazda mx5 had 1.8 Liter, free running, engine but was turbo version but no turbo fitted new. had low natural compression . see? One guy had DOHC engine and the PO wrecked the DOHC head and put on the SOHC head. (FREE RUNS) 33 YEARS OLD THINGS HAPPEN

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. There isn't one https://www.justanswer.com/honda/eufev-emergency-shut-off-gasoline-2002-honda.html and this, already answered on Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t13333053-fuel_pump_shut_off_switch_2002_honda So it might be the relay, the pump or maybe the engine immobilizer. Battery disconnect recently? ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Televisions Category. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Honda+Civic+LX.+Error+Code+119-1 ..

no info generic answer you can at least give more info as to ---steering jerking--vehicle lurching while driving --stopping--turning ------engine---automatic--explain jerking-- and you should be able to get an answer that can help you

Question moved to model category. All sorts of ideas here. You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to sort that mess out. You could try a reset again. Disconnect both battery leads for 10 minutes. Hold positive and negative together for 2 minutes. Connect positive lead. Connect negative lead. Reset security system.

How to reset honda civic alarm? - Vehicle History

https://www.vehiclehistory.com > questions > how-to-re... To reset the honda civic alarm, insert the ignition key into the door lock on the driver side of the accord. Turn key to location unlock. Switch key to location ... 6 answers · Top answer: If the alarm has been activated in a Honda Civic, press the panic button https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Honda+Civic+has+check+engine+and+oil+light+on+without+putting+key+in ..

. There may be a problem with the ignition system or the fuel system. Have the car checked by a qualified mechanic.

Based on the information you provided, it seems that there may be a problem with the wiring or the connections in the car's electrical system. It is possible that the issue started when the license plate bulb was replaced, but it is difficult to say for certain without further investigation. Here are a few suggestions for troubleshooting the problem: Check the fuses: Start by checking the fuse box to see if any of the fuses related to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights are blown. If you find any blown fuses, replace them and see if that resolves the issue. Inspect the wiring: Look for any visible signs of damage or wear to the wiring that connects to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights. If you find any issues, such as frayed wires or loose connections, try repairing them to see if that resolves the problem. Check the bulbs: Make sure that all of the bulbs are the correct type and are installed properly. If any of the bulbs are burned out or not installed correctly, replace them and see if that fixes the issue. Take the car to a mechanic: If you are unable to troubleshoot the issue on your own, take the car to a reputable mechanic who can diagnose and repair the problem. Overall, it is important to address any issues with the car's brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights as soon as possible to ensure that the car is safe to drive.