Honda Cars & Trucks - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.

However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

no magic wand to wave and bypass or hotwire vehicle and an 02 vin key is about $30 to $50 dollars re try to jump vehicle with different cables and or test cables if using the same ones sounds like cables arent good

PODR?A SER ALGO RELACIONADO CON LA PISTON O EL REFIGERADOR DEL MOTOR

if you drive any car this new. and with head lamps on and see the lamps dim and the alternator is failing EDL and all. even fan belt loose. battery lugs loose. the 14vdc (typ) batter voltage falls fast to 12vdc then near 10vdc. lamps now dim the EFI starts to fail. (its computer, and will not run below 10vdc. or even misfires) or under injects, and well a list of random things. all wrong. test the battery first many a bad battery can cause horrible crazy things as you bounce down a road. and the battery cane make the alternator or eld go nuts. 13vdc to 15vdc is normal at the battery lugs engine running' own a voltmeter to learn this? misfires has many causes, above is but 1 of 50 above is battery charger failures. the 2003 car we an scan the PCM to see errors too cars this old tend have 2 or more hard errors. but all ELD tests are in the book, to read;. ELD is like smart device the helps keep battery from going dead. ELD prevents overharge and under, better than most cars made. the ELD is a ammeter,(converter) the PCM asks over and over (looped) what does the battery see (here) current. so that allows the PCM to control the Alternator in a better way,to not stress the battery and get a longer life. the problem we see is kids with 2000watt bridging ear killing watts added, and the ELD does not see that current (HACKED IN by owners)) so the battery is not properly charged and goes bad fast. so don't by honda's(sorry) or rip out the stock alternator and stand alone version installed.. (or ask honda how to do it right?) those are the problems , if still stock ignore my AMP'd up hacks.

Hi Ciara Kilgore, are you asking for us to guess. or how to do tests that find the 50 causes of dead or stalled engines. wow a Tee boned car, first one posted like here ever. amazing post. what are you asking the blind. D4 lamp (is a huge clue) what country is this car located or sold to first. D4 light is like a check engine light for the transmission it means it is failing. your forgot to say the D4 lamp is in the not told what no start means 1: will not crank , the starter motor is dead. 2: cranks fast the starter motor but the engine fails to start , run and stay running. D4 shows flash codes on old honda's when D4 happens, shift the transmission too all gears and back to park see if engine starts now 2001, we scan the PCM using oBD2 scan tool all shops know how to do that. ask them to. on another NOTE call the guy insurance co. that hit your car the fix it like new (or total it) end story. do that now. D4 is honda magic for DRIVE, the drive lamp flashes when the tranny fails. and did and crashes to wreck wires. to lots of things. and more.

erratic up and down idle is usually either a faulty idle air control valve, located on throttle body, or vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses by spraying each one with carb cleaner while engine is idling. If idle smooths out when one is sprayed, then replace that vacuum hose. If all are ok, then the IAC valve is bad. This is replaceable by itself. But before replacing it, try pulling it and cleaning the ports out of any carbon deposits It runs about $144.

0339 is intermittand crank position pulses. That'll do it! Check for bad connections/replace the sensor if faulty.

Does it only do this when you have a full or near full tank? The O-ring on the fuel pump can crack over time which will do this when the tank is full or nearly full. You have a bad gasket or O-ring somewhere for sure.

Hello www_junelgen and thank you for asking your question, on Fixya.

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 1996 Honda Civic, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people in your exact situation.
How to diagnose your overheating 1996 Honda Civic
Pay close attention to the 'fixing leaks' part. You will probably need a heater core (from the sounds of it).

Get more great (money saving) tips and tricks about your vehicle from: twitter.com/acoates23234

Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

CV joints bad.top cause 2nd is bad struts get car checked out in a real shop no blind and deaf text posters can hear it or drive car. talk to live , techs only, in person.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. You have parasitic draw, but disconnecting the fuse box is not the way to find it. This is https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29903527-parasitic_draw_car_batteries Repair manual https://www.google.com/search?q=2013+honda+crv+repair+manual+pdf Best Plan here https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

You can only view video when the car is stationary, or only in the back of an MPV. You can't play music through a video source, only a video with music. Playing audio would be via Bluetooth or an Auxiliary Input on the Audio setting. This vehicle is unknown in North America where we are. It is a Japanese and Far East Market release. This may work better for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+honda+stream+rzs+entetainment+system+manual https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Stream ..

Drill and tap an 8mm hole into the body. Use a tag washer for ground point or, run the required gauge of wire from the fuse box alongside a ground wire.

What would you like to know before proceeding with this procedure???

My Honda Fit had a strong gas smell. For 2 years I lived with it. I took it to 3 different mechanics and none could find anything. They couldn't smell it. I did find a Honda thread that discussed this same issue, and people found out that some of that year and model Fit had left the factory with spark plugs that weren't properly tightened, so gas leaks by. Eventually, the spark plug(s) work their way out of your engine, like it did with me going 70 mph on 93 in NH. Traumatic experience. Spark plug and melted coil replaced and no more gas smell. Honda must know about this. People have been complaining. There should be a recall.

us a load tester on the battery, you could very well have a bad battery.

automatic trans right??? and for sure had manual box too. a/t or m/t?????????????? day1,new sold options. check tranny linkage first, or shift cables. and fluid levels.? good?, hot engine idle in park? and fuses and scan the PCM but most times reverse failing is bad news. aside from cable shifters failing. the cables are 20 years old. uses how many times, shifted now. gee huge. and cables do fail for sure RUST there happens. easy the service manual tells how to check the shifter in PRNDL, to be sure it shifts into tranny selector detents properly. , even make sure Park works can car not be able to be pushed brakes off. a/t box names honda. Trans. code MZKA or Trans. code BZKA honda . cables shift try new cable #14

no engine told , fuses (all) not checked. PCM not scanned for errors cranks fast but will not start and run and stay running.! right-o? the car came new with 2 keys, lost both>? or lost 1 and now the other is dead, and the IMMO lamp on the days screams bad key bad key and not reading the glove box users guide (free ) to see how the lamp works, IMMO (thieft/security) > i will now read page 81 in your guide to you. and linked When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the Immobilizer System indicator should come on for a few seconds, then go out. If the indicator starts to blink, it means the system does not recognize the coding of the key. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), remove the key, reinsert it, and turn the switch to ON (II) again. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/911114/Honda-2004-Accord.html?page=81&term=immo&selected=1#manual USA dash cluster here, not told you, the country. immo lamp is key icon, and must be happy or the engine cannot run.

You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. It will tell you exactly the issue within 10 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..