GMC Yukon XL - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

0helpful
2answers

I have a 2003 yukon Problem with the GMC Yukon XL

What size engine ? 4.3 L vortex P0300 random misfire code is usually associated with vacuum leaks , but could also be low fuel pressure , plugged fuel filter , fuel pump problem , clogged injectors etc... doing fuel pressure an flow testing would confirm or eliminate that as a problem . Fuel injector balance testing would confirm or eliminate clogged injectors .
11/18/2023 3:20:37 PM • 2003 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Nov 18, 2023
0helpful
3answers

2003 gmc Yukon the heated seats on driver side

i have same issue here 2003 yukon
11/5/2023 12:22:59 PM • 2003 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Nov 05, 2023
0helpful
1answer

2001 GMC Yukon XL 1500. Code problems P0134 P0154?

Which O2 sensors came out of the vehicle an which did you put back in ? Two different types for that vehicle. DTC P0134 or P0154 (w/LR4 and LM7 w/ Delphi HO2S) DTC P0134 or P0154 (w/LR4 and LM7 w/ Denso HO2S) DTC P0134 or P0154 (w/LQ4 w/Denso HO2S)
10/11/2023 9:22:09 AM • 2001 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Oct 11, 2023
0helpful
3answers

2002 GMC YUKON XL 1500 MOTOR DIES AFTER GOING

Check the fuel cap!! If the vacuum relief is not working it can impede the fuel flow and cause the engine to shut down or not restart after a stop. Waiting usually gives things a chance to stabalize and the engine will restsrt. When this happens again try loosening the cap and see if the engine will restart.....If it restarts immediately, REPLACE the fuel cap..Do Not leave it loose because this will cause other problems. If it is not the fuel cap the problem may be the filter, the fuel pump, or aome other fuel system malfunction.
9/13/2023 6:31:31 PM • 2002 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Sep 13, 2023
0helpful
2answers

I have a 99 GMC

There are 4 things that could be the cause, the switch, the module, the encoder motor on the transfer case or a problem with the Antilock Brake System [ this is how the auto 4wd system gets it's operational infomation ]. The only realistic way to pinpoint the problem is to scan the 4wd system with a good scanner.
9/13/2023 6:30:36 PM • 2001 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Sep 13, 2023
0helpful
1answer

How to remove a transmission for a 2002 GMC Yukon

Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
    • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
    • Rear propeller shaft.
  2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor.
    • Transfer case, if equipped.
  4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
  6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal 9308kg37.gif

    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
    • The transmission from the vehicle
  8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
    • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
    • Torque converter access plug.
    • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
    • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
4L80E/4L85E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
  2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
  4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor
  6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
    • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
    • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
    4L80E/4L85E removal 9308kg36.gif

  8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
  9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
  2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
  6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter motor
  8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
  10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
prev.gif next.gif
7/15/2023 1:30:19 PM • 2002 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jul 15, 2023
0helpful
2answers

2002 gmc yukon xl rear heat blows heat front blows cold air

Try to back wash the heater core first if it doesnt work then its clogged up try to turn the heater on the front with the heater off for the back keep an eye on the temp guage if it goes up than normal then its clogged.... Fyi u have to run the engine for awhile with the heater fan on
7/28/2022 7:39:22 PM • 2002 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jul 28, 2022
0helpful
3answers

Overheating

faulty water pump ?are you sure the cooling system is full of coolant and has no air pockets ?how long does it run before it overheats, and what does the gauge say when it does ?
6/27/2022 7:59:36 PM • 2001 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jun 27, 2022
0helpful
2answers

2001 gmc yukon won't start

sounds like the starter motor is jammed or shorting get someone to turn the ignition to start and at same time hit starter motor, if this does not work, put vehicle in gear and rock back and forth, this hopefully will release a stuck starter, if it is auto you obviusly cant do that, you can try attatching wires directly from your battery to the starter motor ie live to the red connector earth anywhere on the starter(not on the live terminal) and see how that works...hope that helps
6/6/2022 8:00:20 PM • 2001 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jun 06, 2022
0helpful
3answers

02 yukon my power window button does not work,

The door panel will have to be pryed off after all screws are removed and the motor must be replaced
4/9/2022 6:20:33 PM • 2002 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Apr 09, 2022
0helpful
2answers

2002 GMC Yukon. Truck doesn't start sometimes?

Lots of help here. You need a good auto-electrician with a pro grade scan tool. There are soooo many modules in that vehicle and I have a vague recollection there is a box of tricks under the seat!. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+yukon+won%27t+start ..
3/7/2022 4:33:48 PM • 2002 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Mar 07, 2022
0helpful
2answers

Delete stored addresses in navigation system

get stuffed
1/13/2022 3:39:16 AM • 2007 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jan 13, 2022
0helpful
1answer

2007 GMC Yukon xl overheating

did you look to see if belt attached or pump failed
1/10/2022 9:40:58 PM • 2007 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jan 10, 2022
0helpful
2answers

MY 2001 GMC YUKON XL WILL NOT START OR TURN OVER. I REPLACE A NEW STARTER AND BATTERY, WHAT ELSE NEED TO BE DONE. ITS SEEMS LIKE ITS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

A mechanic would check for voltage at the starter, the neutral safety switch, and the key switch. Then check the battery cables and ground connections.
11/14/2021 5:02:37 AM • 2001 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Nov 14, 2021
0helpful
1answer

2006 Yukon Denali XL the radio stays on as well as the battery symbol on the dash and the dash lights and the heated seats buttons also light up with the car off and locked keys out of ignition

Yes that's normal. it should go off as soon as you open the door though. if it doesn't then they will go off when timer expires (normally about 90 seconds) after you leave the car.
9/14/2021 4:56:38 PM • 2006 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Sep 14, 2021
0helpful
1answer

Daytime running lights not working

On the inside of the car next to the light switch there is your dome button. GM made it to where you could turn off the daytime running lights by pushing it three times in and out. Turn the vehicle on then do this. Your daytime running lights should work after this.

DeViouS Tuning
6/13/2021 9:59:36 PM • 2005 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Jun 13, 2021
0helpful
1answer

Why doesn't DVD player work?

The player can't read the disc
12/7/2020 3:59:24 AM • 2003 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Dec 07, 2020
0helpful
3answers

03 yukon driver seat heater comes on and goes off

This is a follow up to the problem I posted. (Like many others out there). Guess what.... there is NO RECALL on the Memory Control Module Computer for the seat heater controls. Sorry, no freebies on this one. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from GM that advises the repair shop (dealer) to investigate and install a new MCM (Mem Control Mod. So, sorry, there's no fix except to replace.....at your cost. But, I have good news! The GMC dealer only wants to charge us $495.00 for a new MCM! Isn't that great news! Uh.....no, it's not. I did, however, find that Ebay carries a stock of them (and a particular vendor that only stocks GM products). Ebay inputs them as "door switches", so be sure to look for your year and model with "door switch" as your search term. The vendor that supplies them on Ebay, and at their store front, is called "G and R Auto Parts" from Oklahoma City, OK. They only deal with GM used parts, and I found mine for $50! What a deal! I just installed mine and it works great! I called down to talk with them and they are great to deal with. Read on if you want to see the technical side of the repair.....

I consider myself a "weekend warrior" with computers and light mechanic work on cars, so I did my own diagnostics on the car to find the specific issue that caused the seat heaters to freak out. There are 2 computers that control the seats. One is located under the drivers seat in a black box about the size of a 5x7 picture frame (1 inch thick). The other computer is located under the window switches on the drivers door. Actually, the switches and computer are all one unit. The computer boards in this "switch box" control multiple things that I'm not entirely sure about. I do know this..... The green plug goes to the switch box for the seat memory/seat heater/ pedal memory. That's as far as we needed to go. With the standard varation control that we all learned in chemistry class to add/subtract one variable at a time, we deduced a couple of things. 1, the computer circuit board was reaching in excess of 330F degrees! We got the temp reading from an infrared thermometer for $15 at Radio Shack.(Good purchase!) I don't know much, but that can't be right. After we played around with that for a minute, we were able to tell that a certain computer chip was getting too much juice and it created jumps and skips in the controls that made the seat heater come on and off. It also got so hot that it initiated the windows and mirrors to do crazy things. Wild stuff! Then, we looked closer at the circuit boards..... there were a few burn marks by some resistors that just happened to be hooked up to the Green plug. Ahhhhh, the plot thickens. After that, we investigated a few more areas on the board and found that there was also a little corrosion around the green plug. Bingo! We theorized this..... Because the com chip got so hot (We don't know why, it's only got 81,xxx miles), the chip send a power surge to the green plug resistors. It burned out the resistors, thereby creating a dam for the power to go nowhere except burn the chip faster.(330F+) This initiates a powersurge in other areas and created the voodoo ghost effect of the seat heaters going on and off (And later the windows and mirrors). Because the chip burned the resistors, it burned off the protective coating that is applied to keep moisture out of the circuits and solder. This created the corrosion and possibly even more problems, but hey, it only took one time to see the effect. Crazy huh?!?!?!

There it is..... My theory and my fix. Hope this helps. As always, please contact me anytime if you have any problems.

Thanks and good luck.

Brandon
[email protected]
9/27/2020 12:40:56 AM • 2003 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Sep 27, 2020
0helpful
2answers

When we accelerate the a/c

sounds like the clutch assembly for your A/C unit is toast!! thats why the belt broke, Hopefully its not the whole unit seized,, that gets expensive !!
2/26/2020 11:54:36 PM • 2003 GMC Yukon... • Answered on Feb 26, 2020
Not finding what you are looking for?

2,787 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Popular Products

Top GMC Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Ronny Bennett Sr.
Ronny Bennett Sr.

Level 3 Expert

6988 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Are you a GMC Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

View Most Popular

GMC Cars & Trucks

  • Forum

View Most Popular

  • GMC Cars & Trucks
Loading...