Ford Taurus - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 8

First off you open your trunk and take the body bolts off of the top of the bumper cover Than you go to the back of the back tires and take out the two or three screws Than you go underneath the car in the back and take off the rest of the plastic clips and it will come off

The wire runs from the back of the radio through the side frame rails inside the car under the plastic covers by the doors on the floor into the trunk and is inside the quaternary panel where the antenna is and is a push in connector

On this website you find fuse box diagram and descrition for Ford Taurus (2005) https://www.carknowledge.info/ford-taurus-1999-2007-fuse-box-diagram/ https://www.autogenius.info/ford-taurus-1999-2007-fuse-box-diagram/

on this website you find fuse box diagram and description for Ford Taurus (1987) https://www.carknowledge.info/ford-taurus-1985-1995-fuse-box-diagram/ https://www.autogenius.info/ford-taurus-1985-1999-fuse-box-diagram/

ok so when you press a separate button for the others do you feel a click and the button stays in till you press it again and it comes out but when your driver button is pushed in it just come out and doesn't stay in the switch is broken inside and the lock isn't engaging inside holding the button in /or is it that the switch stays illuminated showing its on but no heat from the seat element if that's the case you have to get under the seat cover to the element and possible clean the plug and connector corrosion can get in there from moisture or that element has failed ok

if yours is an automatic it might be the MAF sensor, if you unplug the MAF sensor and it drives again i would check the MAF sensor to see if its still working as it could be coated with muck from a damaged air filter or if you have change the air filter it could of let muck onto the sensor, when changing a dirty air filter its best to clean the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner at the same time.

in trunk behind right rear wheel well area

Ford owners.Com register then download the manual then go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams and fuse values and relay locations are there

Open the radiator petcock valve and drain otherwise remove the lower hose

If equipped there are buttons on the top of the back seat

No you have an electronic pressure control and other switches what is the problem your vehicle is having? Go to rockauto.Com and look up your vehicle then go to automatic transmission and you'll find all the switches and solenoid valves

Clean out the throttle body with fuel injection cleaner then check your vacuum lines if all are good then you should have codes set your check engine light should be on verify that the check engine light bulb is not burned out turn the key to the on position you should see all the dash lights //oil//battery//check engine light if you don't see it the bulb is blown out and if all other things I mentioned are done and the problem is still there either your throttle position sensor is bad or your idle air control valve but I would go to the throttle position sensor first because your car is now 17-18 years old by the door sticker date and if you don't know the repair history because it's a used car check that sensor first if you can get a code scanner from someone/ loaner from autozone you will no for sure

Look under itIf you have dual exhaustthen 4What motor ?May want to ask a question ,as to whatif any problem your having & don't haveanswers for

The camshaft position sensor sends a signal to the PCM, powertrain control module. The PCM then determines spark plug firing. Could be the camshaft position sensor.

1996 is all I have
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor 3.0L (2V) Engine
The camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (12126):

• is a single Hall-effect magnetic switch activated by a single vane which is driven by the camshaft (6250).
• provides camshaft position information which is used by the ignition coil (12029) and the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) for fuel synchronization.

3.0L (4V) Engine
The camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (6B288) is:

• a variable reluctance sensor.
• triggered by the high-point mark on the LH exhaust camshaft sprocket (6256).

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3.0L (2V) Engine
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A
CAUTION: Prior to removal of the camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (12126), set cylinder No.1 to zero degrees top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Then note the position of the camshaft position sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.
Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Refer to Section 14-01 .
   

1. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring connector from camshaft position sensor.
   

1. Remove camshaft position sensor retaining screws and camshaft position sensor from camshaft position sensor housing.
   

1. If removing camshaft position sensor housing from the cylinder block (6010), proceed with Removal Step 5. If not removing camshaft position sensor housing, proceed to installation Step 6.
   

1. Remove hold-down clamp (bolt and washer assembly).
   

1. Remove camshaft position sensor housing from cylinder block.
   

Installation

1. CAUTION: A special service tool such as Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement camshaft position sensor. Failure to follow this procedure will result in improper camshaft position sensor alignment. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.
   Attach Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A as follows:
   
   1. Engage camshaft position sensor housing vane into the radial slot of the tool.
   1. Rotate tool on camshaft position sensor housing until tool boss engages notch in camshaft position sensor housing.

1. Pre-lubricate synchronizer gear with engine oil meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C123-A prior to assembly.
   

1. Install camshaft position sensor housing so that drive gear engagement occurs when arrow on locator tool is pointed approximately 75 degrees counterclockwise from the rear face of the cylinder block. This step will locate camshaft position sensor electrical connector in the pre-removal position.
   

1. Roatate Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A clockwise slightly. This will engage oil pump intermediate shaft. Push downward while adjusting Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A until the Syncro Gear engages the camshaft gear.
   

1. When synchronizer flange is fully seated against block, the installation tool should be facing counterclockwise of engine centerline approximately 33 to 45 degrees.
   

1. Install hold-down clamp (washer and bolt) and tighten bolt to 19-30 Nm (14-22 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A.
   

1. CAUTION: If camshaft position sensor electrical connector is not positioned properly, DO NOT reposition the connector by rotating the camshaft position sensor housing. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the camshaft position sensor housing and repeat installation procedure, beginning with Step 1.
   Install camshaft position sensor and retaining screws. Tighten screws to 1.5-4.0 Nm (13-35 lb-in).
   

1. Connect engine control sensor wiring connector to camshaft position sensor.
   

1. Connect battery ground cable.
   

Item Part Number Description 1 T95T-12200-A Syncro Positioning Tool 2 — Water Outlet (Part of Intake Assy) 3 9424 Intake Manifold 4 N602704-S Screw and Washer 5 12126 Camshaft Position Sensor 6 12A362 Synchronizer Assembly 7 12270 Hold-Down Clamp A — Tighten to 1.5-4 Nm (13-35 Lb-In) B — Tighten to 19-30 Nm (14-22 Lb-Ft)

The spring or wire that connects your pedal to the throttle body may broken or damaged. Check under your hood and look at the throttle body (it's the carburetor looking thing). There should be a steel wire connected to it coming from the back of the engine bay. It should connect on the side where you'll see a few springs. If nothing looks broken there, turn the part of the throttle body connected to the spring and wire. If it revs up when you move it, then the cable could be broken somewhere between there and the gas pedal. Alternatively, the linkage on the pedal could have been disconnected some how. Check behind and above the gas pedal to see if eveything is connected properly.

Hey Dave that tire pump might have burned the lighter inside contact look into the lighter the center is the positive and it should be clean look ing you can use a pencil eraser to clean it off if you use anything else you must disconnect the battery also vacuum it out after the eraser to get the rubber and abrasives in the eraser you could use light sand paper to also its possible that the connections on the other side got hot and became loose thoroughly inspect it also are you using a continuity tester/volt meter to check the fuses I believe it's #29 for the lighter it's a 20 amp fuse do you also have a PowerPoint socket in your car the lighter should work there and other things with an adapter for the lighter a lot of times on an older car when you plug in something that makes it get hot but doesn't blow the fuse it fries the inside

It is possible that the ASD (Auto Shut Down Relay) has gone bad. The ASD provides signal/power to the fuel pump and to the engine coils. It is usually located in the fuse box under the hood. The fuse box cover should indicate it's location. The ASD is often a square relay and there may other such relays that look the same and have the same configuration of pins in the fuse box. If so, one may be the horn relay. Often relocating one of the other nonessential relays (horn relay) to the ASD position will allow the engine to start. If so, replace the old ASD relay.

Disconnect the negative (black) battery cable, wait 15 minutes then reconnect. If the problem is fixed the light should be out when you restart the vehicle. If this doesn't work you may need a scan tool to clear the codes. Some parts stores have scan tools and will help 6iu out free of charge.

Not mine but ope this reference helps.

You can not disable it so let's start now to get to the problem//// A.do you have original transponder keys or aftermarket (if aftermarket check to see if it has a battery in the key by looking at the bottom of the key for tabs that will open it////next was the battery disconnected before this happened and you don't have a key fob and the alarm sounded if so you need to buy a fob and go through the programming process in the owners manual (you can download it from ford owners.com)then after programming the remote disconnect the battery cables and wait 3-5minutes then reconnect them when the alarm or horn starts shut it off using the key fob remote this will take you out of theft mode /// if you lost your keys a locksmith is needed do not mess with this system it will cost you a lot of $$$$ to fix it