Ford Focus - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 6

On the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Or above the license plate on the outside

You might have a power trunk button try to look for it also you should download your owners manual at ford owners.Com it should give you the location and your fuse box diagrams and other information now the seat you will have to unbolt it the side panels pop out and are held in with clips the bottom of the seat may pop out by pushing inwards but this also could be bolted in look around the bottom also when you pop out the side panels you might gain accessories to the rear deck bolts that the third brake light is attached to and radio speakers if applicable anyway you should be able to axcess the trunk by this path it's going to be a pain in the gozompus but you can get in I don't own a focus but from memory of getting stuff in junk yards I'm trying to help you so excuse me if I'm wrong here or there so pull out the door seals that go around the door opening there might be panel bolts in the frame and seat bolts behind once you get to them you should be able to get to the levers also I know that the lock was possibly frozen when you put in the key knocking in the weather shield and jamming the lock cylinder you can try putting the key in and keep trying to turn it while banging the trunk where the cylinder is and you might jar it loose that metal flap has a spring on it and those 2 things are stopping the key from turning the other alternative is to try using a very small screwdriver to try to move it out of the way so the key will turn you have to be gentle here digging in like crazy will not help and last of all if you can't get in then use a drill and destroy the cylinder completely and a long screwdriver and a hammer will get you in you'll have to change the cylinder anyway so whack away at it if all else fails good luck stephen

is it the hose that i've arrowed? its the hose that helps to remove air from the system

Under the hood.

Yup, been there, done that. Found it was a bad injector. Replaced that one injector the test showed and runs great now. Check engine light should be on though because of this problem. The test will show you which cylinder is misfiring and that is the injector you change. My test showed #5 cylinder. The last # in the code read.

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When rocking the steering there is usually some noise from a steering system that has a few miles on it especially from the majority of power steering types as not only is the rack slipper bearing likely to make noise but also the hydraulic spool valve and possibly even the rack end bush. Sometimes the clunking noises can be worrying they are so loud. If there are steering stops on the lower arms and hubs the noise can be very loud on full lock and a moving vehicle. There might be track rod problems but there is no point guessing - the car has to be inspected, jacked up and the wheels shook to check for wear and free play and on the ground the steering wheel has to rocked while the steering gear is inspected. If inspection finds nothing the noise is clearly caused by "acceptable" wear...

How To Install Replace Rear Drum Brakes Ford Focus 00 11 1AAuto com

there will be codes and you will have to find a specialist shop with a scanner that has the right protocols for ford

Has the vehicle been in a crash or minor accident recently? Have you installed any amps or anything under the seats? Are seatbelt tensioners working properly? These are typical issues. Here is a list of airbag codes: Air Bag Fault Code Table AIR BAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR FAULT CODE PRIORITY TABLE Priority Code Component/Fault Description Highest -- No Air Bag Lamp - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor ' -- Continuous Air Bag Lamp - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative ' 12 Low Battery Voltage ' 13 Air Bag Circuit or Crash Sensor Circuit - Shorted to Ground ' 21 Safing Sensor - Not Mounted on Vehicle Properly ' 22 Safing Sensor Output Circuit - Shorted to Battery Voltage ' 23 Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open ' 24 Open in Circuit 944B or Low Resistance in Crash Sensor(s) ' 32 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open ' 33 Pin 7 Not Grounded at Diagnostic Monitor ' 34 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - Low Resistance or Shorted ' 35 Low Resistance Across Pins 8 and 9 at Diagnostic Monitor ' 41 Crash Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open ' 44 RH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 45 Center Radiator Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 46 LH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 51 Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse - Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists ' 52 Backup Power Supply - Voltage Boost Fault ' 53 Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault Lowest -- Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Lamp - All Crash Sensors Disconnected

spark plugs good

Battery light on ! alternator isn't charging . Test the alternator electrical circuits .Main cable on the back of the alt. should have B+ voltage .Pin # 3 at the connector on the alt. should have B + voltage - fuse F10 10amp under hood fuse box supply's B+ to pin #3 . Pin's 1 & 2 at the connector go to the PCM - engine computer . This is a computer controlled charging system . Ford PCM controlled alternator testing

Contact your door installation service: there's a lock that has to be fixed

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Nigel, Check out this link: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/3350-instrument-cluster-display-brightness.html unfortunately,...it doesn't sound like there are a lot of options

You'll need the computer and complete wiring harness from the DOHC vehicle. Without that, there's no way the engine will run.

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Try some marvel mystery oil in your gas this should free the stuck valve

Year, make, model, engine and if it’s a 4x4 should would help