Ford F-350 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity. @Randall Andre. It wasn't answered because of the way the question was written back to front. Generally 14 year old questions don't get answered. It is better to write your own. In the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=1988+ford+econoline+e-350+ecm+location A Service Manual is always a good investment https://www.google.com/search?q=1988+ford+econoline+e-350+service+manual ..

Fuse Box Diagrams https://www.google.com/search?q=1981+ford+f-350+5.8+fuse+box+diagram Alternator Wiring https://www.google.com/search?q=1981+ford+f-350+5.8+alternator+wiring ..

This 1977 Ford truck shop manual should help you https://www.fordshopmanual.com/ford-truck-shop-manuals/1977-ford-truck-shop-manual-pdf-download/

big DIESEL engine. ONLY 6 CAUSES. FOR NO CRANK BATTERY LUGS CLEAN? AND TIGHT> FIRST JUMPER CABLE JUMP START WORK>???? YOU PROVED STARTER IS GOOD. THE SOLENIOID IS GOOD AS THAT IS WHERE THE JUMP WAS DONE, SOLENOID TINY TERM TO BIG LUG, THERE, PROVES STARTER AND SOLENOLID ARE GOOD. EASY AS PIE ,KEY OFF SAFE AND SURE WILL NOT START THE ENGINE KEY OFF SAFE The key most be good and send ST signal (12v) to PRNDL switch, a/t auto trans right?> not told then try Park and Neutral to crank, ooops neutral does work>? the starter relay bad and list to starter (we know it is good. all it takes are 2 persons. (one at key other with....) 1 volt meter in hand DMM set to DC volts. and find the serial point of failures to starter. easy here is the magic wiring from SM the fuse 11 ,20amp is first, a 20 cent part. and near zero labor the EX-F53 MODEL HAS NO FUSE WOW ! A FIRE STARTER. https://imgur.com/a/7de0WFiSEE BETTER VIEW

FORD F350 SUPER-DUTY WITH V10 RIGHT? 6.8 liters scanning the PCM shows no DTC errors>? CRANKS FAST, BUT WILL NOT START,? OR DOES NOT CRANK AT ALL, STARTER MOTOR DEAD? ENGINE STALLED DRIVING? YES. does a fast right foot save the stall when it does,?>>???????? OR FAILS AFTER KEY OFF AND HOT SOAK.? does adding 5% throttle , cranking allow a start now>? if yes, ISC valve is bad ,.or just dirty takes air to start any engine. KEY OFF , AND THEN START AGAIN, QUICKLY STARTS OK? OR ONLY KEY OFF WAIT 30MIN, AND WILL NOT CRANK OR WILL NO START OR STARTS FOR 1 TO 10 SECONDS AND STALLS TELL THE GOOD AND THE BAD AND ANSWERS GO 10X BETTER! THE CAR DOES NOT HAVE 1YEAR OLD+ FUEL IN IT RIGHT? ever do a tune a full in 24 years. all filters new. (engine) all spark plugs >? and 10 new COP boots for the 10 spark coils>.? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1999,f-350+super+duty,6.8l+v10,1354654,ignition,spark+plug+/+ignition+coil+boot,10150 NO TBW here, ever clean TV back sides and front in the TB throttle valve in the throttle body, cleaned, not gunked up with IAC CLEANED TOO.? IF THE CAR STOPS CRANKING SAY SO AND IGNORE MY POST KEY OFF THE PCM OPENS THE VALVE BY READING THE ECT AND LOOKS UP BEST AIR FLOW .LAST RECORDED AT THIS CURRENT COOLANT TEMP. IF IAC BELOW IS JAMMED AND GUNKED UP IT WILL NOT WANT TO START. AT TIMES, OR AT ALL.

check for clogged egr valve.

you need to check fuel preasure and change your fuel filter

two ways I do it first you can remove the master cylinder which is more work or my way is leave fluid cap on lines connected. Remove the two bolts attaching the cylinder to the booster and then pull the cylinder out of the way. Next go under the dash and you will find the bolts holding the booster to the firewall remove them then remove the booster sometimes you may have to tap the booster to break the hold then just reverse the procedure good luck Mike L.

copy and paste https://www.justanswer.com/ford/7skff-ford-f250-firing-order-1991-ford-super-duty-7-5.html ..

remove and wash with diesel after which u blow dry

Diesel is wired unique, 7.3. left low beam and high beam dim????????? bad rusty wires,30 years old and ground wires and lugs rusty why do all that for one lamp, dim . learn to use a voltmeter it will never lie to you see 12vdc at the lamp is good see 9v is fail then move the meter back in the chain of wires to find the voltage drop. bad wires, burned or rust connections all techs know how to test simple wiring like this. it is super easy tech,. a wire and bulb and ground here is a schematic this is not in canada with loves to fail DRL lamps right, I will answer for USA cars only its not the 1 fuse it is not the multifunction switch it runs both off 1 pin out left and right both share g101 ground lug. the wire that is bad is left side and is colored Red/blk the wire circles bad see why? from s115 junction down is bad, if above both dim. the real schematic 7.3 only

the multifunction switch that controls the wiper /turn signals,and high/low beam lights are very common for (when they get a lot of miles on them) for having problems.also I have seen a good number of these pickups that the connector (that plugs into the back of the multifunction switch)had lost the ability to properly hold the wire terminals into the connector causing a poor connection between the switch and the wiring. sometimes this can be verified without removing the column shrouds by (if equipped) tilting the tilt wheel up and down and see if the lights start working . hope this helps,thanks for using fixya

Make sure the connections are Clean and tight on the solenoid first. The solenoid itself has rather small studs
holding those big cables. If checking those connections does not solve the problem then you need to crawl under the rig and check the cable on the starter if tight the starter will need to be replaced.

door pad keyless codes?

in owner manual, enter permanent code and then press "1" and enter personal code, then press "1" again. Then both codes will work.

If you don't have manual, go to Motorcraft.com and click on technical resources and click on your year owner manual.

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Each vehicle equipped with a keyless entry keypad is programmed with a five-digit entry code. This code is provided to the customer through a wallet card in the Owner Literature package. In addition, this code is available through a diagnostic tool and is also printed on the vehicle security module label. When entering codes each digit must be entered within five seconds of the previous button press.
Programming/Erasing Personal Code
A unique personal five-digit code can be programmed by following these steps:

1. Enter the factory set five-digit code (the keypad will illuminate when pressed).

1. Press 1/2 within five seconds of Step 1.

1. Enter the unique five-digit code.

The personal code does not substitute for the permanent factory set code. Either code can be used to access the vehicle. In addition, if a second personal code is programmed, it will simply overwrite the previous personal code. To erase a personal code, carry out the following procedure:

1. Enter factory set five-digit code.

1. Press 1/2 within five seconds of Step 1.

1. Press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time within five seconds of Step 2.

The system will now only respond to the factory set code.
Anti-Scan Feature
To provide added security, the keyless entry pad is disabled for one minute after 35 button presses without a valid entry code being entered. The keypad will flash during this one-minute mode with all functionality disabled except for 7/8 and 9/0 still being allowed to lock the vehicle.
Anti-Scan will be turned off after any of the following events:

• one minute of keypad inactivity
• the keyless entry remote transmitter UNLOCK button is pressed
• the ignition is turned to the ON position.

Unlocking the Doors with the Keyless Entry Keypad System
To unlock the driver door, enter either the factory set code or the personal code (each digit must be pressed within five seconds of the prior digit). The interior lamps will illuminate.
To unlock all doors, enter either the factory set code or the personal code (driver door unlocks) and press the 3/4 control within five seconds.
Locking the Doors with the Keyless Entry Keypad System
It is not necessary to enter the factory set or personal code prior to locking all doors. To lock all doors, press the 7/8 and 9/0 controls at the same time.
Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer concern by operating the system.

1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.

Is your new battery fully charged? Maybe you need to go slow with a step-by-step process. The most common cause of a non-starting car is the battery. It is either weak, (low voltage) dead, (zero voltage) or has bad connections. (corroded or loose) I will assume you have a fully charged battery with good connections. (both to battery and starter relay) If you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the starter relay and apply +12v from the battery to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. (not to be confused with your key switch). If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken. Picture of starter switch prong on the relay is pictured. NOTE: sparks are to be expected, so don't be too scared.

This problem requires dealer service.

Request the diagram from Ford or a dealer.

Sounds like a shorted ignition switch

The fuel pressure sounds too low. Is it multi-port injection? Check the fuel pressure against your specs for the car and engine. MPFI systems usually require 40-50 psi.

I don't know personally but computer controlled engines have a bridge point that isolates the timing advance you must bridge this wire to time it or you have to time it visually with the engine stopped, once started the computer will always do what it wants