Dodge Ram 1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 8

Causes A P0501 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:

• The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is not reading (functioning) properly
• There is a broken/frayed wire leading to the vehicle speed sensor
• The vehicle's PCM is not correctly configured for the actual tire size on the vehicle

Possible Solutions The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
Next, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the speed sensor. The location of the sensor depends on your vehicle. The sensor could be on the rear axle, transmission, or perhaps the wheel hub (brake) assembly.
If the wiring and connectors are OK, then check the voltage at the speed sensor. Again, the exact procedure wil depend on your make and model of vehicle.
If everything looks OK, replace the sensor.
Further Reading Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Description and Operati

check with code scanner for fault code/or bring to garage to scan for fault code

Watch the video. Ignition Pick Up Coil Sensor Replacement How to Dodge Dakota This Video applies to all models that use the 5.2L V8

Fualty blend door or a bad blend door
actuator when when you turn it to the cold side will it cut the heat from the side the is working

Get an OBD reader and see what it says.

"No Bus" means the communication bus is down (the network connecting electrical parts and computers). This is usually a wiring/connector problem. Check for loose connectors, wiring, etc.

Most likely problem are the horn pads in the steering wheel. Check to see how sensitive they are when the horn is not engaged. It it honks with very little pressure, then you found the problem.

Take a large socket and breaker bar or ratchet and on the crank bolt at the harmonic balancer and try to move the crank clockwise. This will tell if its frozen up. Also dirty or loose connections at the batt starter and ground can cause this. Mike.

Misfire codes a lot of times will be your individual coil packs. Not sure how many miles you have on your truck, but around 70 to 80 thousand miles you may start getting codes of misfires because your coils are starting to break down. Could also be a combination of coil and spark plugs. If it were my truck and it has high mileage, I would replace all the coil packs, and the spark plugs, and while I had it apart would clean the throttle body which is fairly easy to do.

Yes, there is a rev limiter and probably set at 4000 rpm when in park or neutral.

It will work fine. The CCA is a rating of how much power that the battery is capable of delivering at once and as the name suggests, cold cranking amps, is needed more in cold temperatures. As long as you are not in the arctic, it should be fine for a couple of days.

The ASD relay is controlled by the PCM (computer). The PCM will shut the ASD relay off if it doesn't see a signal from the crankshaft position sensor. Check that sensor and the wiring from the sensor to the PCM.

Upper hose to intake lower hose at bottom of engine. Best to go to autozone.com enter your car info under manuals and get info for free. Mike

repair or rebuilding manual -some auto stores --trans repair shop --online search

A leaking brake line must be replaced with an identical or suitable replacement part. Original brake lines are produced from Bundy Tube - this is a steel tube coated with tin and might have further protection of an epoxy or vinyl coating. A brake line that has broken free of a retaining clip can vibrate and chafe through but rust is the main cause of leaks. Brake line pressure is high so resist every temptation to make an unsuitable repair. Replacement brake lines can sometimes be bought as a replacement part, from a factor in a variety of "standard" lengths or manufactured by most repair shops to a pattern, drawing or written specifications. There are other brake line materials used in the aftermarket that do not rust though great care must be exercised during manufacture and fitting as both cupro-nickel and annealed copper both age harden and work harden...

Non-compliant replacement. Sure they work, but the impedance is not within spec so the control module believes the lamp(s) are not.

Hello Steve Ma, It is going to be UNDER the EVAP (cooler) coil... where all the "cooling" should be taking place. The result of "cooling" hot & soggy AIR is (frost) condensation... Working properly the ambient heat will keep the EVAPORATIVE cooler from icing up (( and excess water will collect in the pan at the bottom ... ( LOOK there for a drain hose )))... Directed straight out of the underside of your RAM... Right above that WET SPOT on the pavement. Happy hunting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnac_the_Magnificent

With the correct tools, not too bad at all. In a driveway laying on the ground with jack stands, it can be a bit of a challenge, but doable.

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine I got free in offers 3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this Try these out brother

I supose you are talking about the rear axle? if so, unscrew the bolts of the rear axle's cover and let the oil flow out into a container. once it's empty, clean the cover and the surface on the axle where the cover goes on to, apply a seal onto the cover and put the cover back on and screw al of the bolts back into place and tighten them. you will find a rubber plug in the cover, take it out and fill the rear axle untill the liquid comes out of the plughole. Put the rubber plug in and you're done! Watch out if you got al limited slip differential, you will need to put an additive into the oil so you won't burn the clutches of you limited slip differential.