Dodge Dakota - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 3

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Where here 1997 dodge dakota

On the 3.9L engine the fuel filter is located at the following location:

Under vehicle, center, below seating area, mounted ontop of fuel tank, in fuel pump module

If this is the wrong size engine let me know. Or, go to autozone.com and input your vehicle and look up the location.
2/3/2023 9:28:19 AM • 1997 Dodge... • Answered on Feb 03, 2023
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Hydrocarbons too high to pass emissions test on my

Replace egr and catalytic
12/28/2022 12:02:25 AM • 1989 Dodge... • Answered on Dec 28, 2022
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I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota Sport two-wheel drive 3.9 it is thrown codes that is 32 5 5. Can you help me with this anyone?

Question moved to model category. So the code is '32 5 5', or is it 32 AND 55, or 5.5 or 5 came up twice? These are early OBD codes https://www.google.com/search?q=95+Dodge+Dakota+sport+code+32+5+5 ..
12/16/2022 4:14:18 AM • 1995 Dodge... • Answered on Dec 16, 2022
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1999 Dodge Dakota. Brake line diagram for 99 Dodge Dakota 4 wheel drive/front driver side.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Diagrams at the top of this page with all the lines also separate. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1999-dodge-dakota/service_brakes/lines_hoses_front.html https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Dodge+Dakota.+Brake+line+diagram ..
12/16/2022 3:54:41 AM • 1999 Dodge... • Answered on Dec 16, 2022
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Why is my 2002 Dodge Dakota Sport saying 'no bus'.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Best Answer. No Bus means no communication from the ECU to the instrument cluster. You must have disconnected something.

ANSWERED: No bus (Dodge Dakota) - CarGurus.ca

Videos as well in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=Dodge+Dakota+Sport+saying+%27no+bus%27 ..
12/15/2022 4:43:17 AM • 2002 Dodge... • Answered on Dec 15, 2022
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Fibreglass tonneau cover tailgate latch fasteners are loose.

take it to a body shop or dealership
12/14/2022 10:32:08 AM • 2006 Dodge... • Answered on Dec 14, 2022
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota and the windshield wipers when they work, they stop the engine shut down.

seem to me 2 huge problems, weak engine, does that hot or cold engine or both. pull wiper fuse? if engine still stalls , the wiring the wiper is wired crazy wrong. 29 year old truck there will be lots of things wrong. engine, does engine have full lower, even driven up hills? does engine idle controls work. can you save the wiper> engine stall with fast right foot?y/n/? when did truck run perfectly ? last week, year, decade? wipers motors can not stall any engine, even shorted, they blow the wiper fuse. the battery and aternator can do 100amps easy 10 x the fuse rating. seems to me the wiper wiring was hacked. to power feeds critcal to engine operation, (all electrics efi) the stock truck wiper circuits are almost fully isolated from anything else. it has its own fuse 20amp. wired to accessory run,.<< this is the only engine common point. so is wired wrong or or key run connection power feed is a mess.or loose? rusted? guess wiring behind key is a mess. me. check all power from battery to fuse to key switch, for loose rusty , or bad wring.
12/7/2022 12:45:06 PM • 1993 Dodge... • Answered on Dec 07, 2022
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1999 Dodge Dakota. The headlights do not work when steering wheel is tilted in the down position. What is quick easy cheap fix?

The cheapest, easiest fix is to drive with the steering wheel in the up position and sit on a cushion. There must be a break in one of the wires from the switches, or it might just be a loose connector under there.
11/29/2022 10:04:59 PM • 1999 Dodge... • Answered on Nov 29, 2022
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1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2. It starts and runs great for about 5 miles then stalls.

For 5 miles it is running on choke. Try cleaning the Throttle Body and MAF. If that doesn't work, you need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. It can record exactly what goes wrong at 5 miles and diagnose the fault. It appears to be a known fault https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Dodge+Dakota%2C+5+miles+then+stalls ..
11/29/2022 8:44:22 PM • 1998 Dodge... • Answered on Nov 29, 2022
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I have a 93 dodge dakota,i'm trying to find the ground strap.

on some it goes from motor to firewall or motor to the frame.. you have to have a good eye for it is easily overlooked...good luck
11/13/2022 5:23:24 AM • 1993 Dodge... • Answered on Nov 13, 2022
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2004 Dodge Dakota crank sensor wiring short. Where is the most common short found.

Hi, a short would occur where a missing resistor should have been placed on a basic generic circuit. So the most common short would be in a place with a missing resistor of some type (ie a light bulb, led or actual resistor). Thank you.
11/10/2022 5:37:13 AM • 2004 Dodge... • Answered on Nov 10, 2022
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Where do I find the altenator fuse on 95 dodge dakota

the alt big stud huge goes (wire) straight to it. on all cars, be it a fuse classical or a fueable link all cars have it and is covered here https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
10/29/2022 11:44:57 PM • 1995 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 29, 2022
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Was going down the road an my truck cut off.it turns over but no fire

When it cranks over does it sound normal or does it sound like you have no compression? You may have a broken timing chain.
10/26/2022 7:48:49 PM • Dodge Dakota... • Answered on Oct 26, 2022
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What would cause my 1995 dodge dakota to shut off when driving it down the road? I t does not run rough or bad and has plenty of power. I have cjanged the knock sensor, distributor, cap and rotar, plu

Dakotas and Durangos are notorious for intermittent failures of the crankshaft position sensor. If you get a shutdown like someone just turned the key off, then this is a likely suspect. Fortunately, they are relatively cheap and easy to replace by the DIYer.
10/26/2022 1:18:59 PM • 1996 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 26, 2022
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I have a 01 dodge dakota 4.7L 4x4. I'm having trouble getting my top bolt off my starter. I have broken a swivel, bent a wrench to the point where it is cracked and stripped out 2 ratchets. I'm lookin

Your problem is twofold:
  1. The person who likely replaced the starter in the past either had "ham fists" and muscles enough to run them badly (and/or a bottle or Loctite), or;
  2. The toolkit you received as a Christmas gift is made out of the cheapest steel in the world (as are most ALL "consumer-quality" tools these days)
There is about a zero percent chance that the bolt was replaced with a left-handed thread one, but there IS a chance you forgot one of the basic tenets of mechanix - mainly, "Righty-TIGHTY, Lefty-LOOSEY". I think it is more likely you simply need the proper tools for the job, mainly a HIGH QUALITY (read "Profession Grade Lifetime Guarantee") 3/4" drive, the right-sized 6-POINT SOCKET, matched to a properly sized 3/4" extension bar (long enough to give you the whatever clearances you need to really lay the meat to twisting the bolt), and either a HIGH QUALITY solid 3/4" "Breaker Bar" or HIGH QUALITY 3/4" ratchet handle, either with at least a 16 inches or so of length, so you can truly "reef" on that puppy. I do NOT mean any of the "Lifetime Guarantee" tools you can get at a big box store, I mean a true "Professional Quality" tools like Proto or Snap-On. Other makes like Craftsman and that ilk used to be good, but many years ago the manufacturers figured out they could make a LOT more money with really cheap tool steel and casting the words "Lifetime Guarantee" into the tools. I am sure you probably will not go too far out of your way to replace those tools that have already "melted" in your hands trying to do this "simple" job - and they count on that. The proper 3/4 inch drive tools for that job - the socket, the extension and the long-handled ratchet or breaker-bar will likely cost more (x2) of what the new starter will cost. You will need to beg, borrow or steal them. I would not recommend attempting to steal them, as most mechanics who possess tools of that quality depend on them for their livelihood and safety, which is to say they love and trust them even more than their own spouse. After you garner the right tools, you must figure out how to use them PROPERLY! Used improperly, you can turn trying to twist that one, single bolt off into an $800-plus major repair job in about 2 1/2 seconds, or even worse, you can easily EASILY knock every tooth out of the front of your face INSTANTLY, before you understand what hit you. (Never EVER pull tools of that size and mass towards you, you always push them away from you while using!!!) Pushing the handle away from you, you will also need to apply exactly the same amount of pressure in the opposite direction to the top of the handle or ratchet, all while pushing the whole assemble in towards the bolt, it at an additional equal or greater force. In other words, you need to not simply turn the bolt off, you must work the forces in three separate directions, and all of them AWAY from you. That usually means you will be handling big, heavy tools in exactly the OPPOSITE direction as you did last time, using both hands to apply forces in x3 directions - and it will still be a "bear" to remove. If you really choose to get the right tools and do this yourself, don't forget the additional items you will need: 1) Beer, all "Shade Tree Mechanics" work better with a few beers in them (it numbs the pain when the wrench slips), 2) BANDAGES and a Cell Phone; those little wrenches you initially used might cause a skinned knuckle or two, but the "Big Boys" will cause broken bones and major lacerations - the bandages help while waiting for the ambulance you might need the cell phone to call, 3) A helper - someone to hold your beer after you utter those famous last lines "Hold my beer, and watch this!", and who will call your mom later to tell you what hospital they took you to. 4) and last but not least, a brand-new, properly sized and length replacement bolt for the over-torqued one you are removing, and a properly pitched tap to chase the bunged up threads with. There is a reason a good mechanic costs a few bucks: outside of the training, experience and $50,000.00 - plus worth the tools in that tool-box of his, he usually works in a pretty nice shop, not on his back under a truck in the Target parking lot, where some little old man in a three ton Cadillac, wearing a silly plaid hat and those goofy big "I've just been to the Optometrist and had my eyes dilated" sunglasses can run over his legs. Good luck, Chad!
10/21/2022 5:21:36 AM • 2001 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 21, 2022
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I have 1998 dakota cranks

Do you hear the fuel pump when you cycle the key?
If not, then Check the ASD - auto shut down relay ,under hood, drivers side,distribution box
Only got computer,crank sensor,and coil
The distributor hall effect sensor, is for the injector timing,do not move the dist.,

Is the ignition switch and neutral switch okey

If you got no wiring diagrams or experience with a volt meter,your in a tough spot.
10/21/2022 3:07:07 AM • 1998 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 21, 2022
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2.5L 4 Cylinder Firing order -

What's the firing order for a 1987 Dodge Daytona 2.5 l
10/16/2022 4:51:50 PM • 1987 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 16, 2022
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Drivers side headlight doesn't turn on low beam

you need to check for power at the low beam wire on the connector on the headlight...need to see if it is getting power...if it is...bad connectore or socket for the buld...if not ...need to chase wiring problems
10/15/2022 10:00:41 PM • 2004 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 15, 2022
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1996 Dodge Dakota. Why does the high beams blink on and off after driving please?

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It is a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+Dodge+Dakota.+high+beams+blink+on+and+off ..
10/15/2022 3:27:35 AM • 1996 Dodge... • Answered on Oct 15, 2022
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