Chevrolet Chevy - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I had a 85' Just like yours. You cannot Plug the Return line or it will Overfill the Bowl and result in Overignition and Flooding out. That return line catches all of the Fuel that the TBI Does not Burn and Returns it to the Fuel tank for Reuse. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

See if the diagrams in the link help https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/85-c10-vacuum-hose-diagram-pics.29486/ https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+Chevy+C10+vacuum+hose+diagram ..

no truck told at all just TRUCK word, means zero, lots of trucks, a C or K 1500, 2500 , 3500? what? van, or suburban? ok, we find what that is using a schematic to ENG-1 to sell all things off that feed and remove them all 1by1 to find the short. I will guess(rolling dice now) C1500 5.7l ok first path is CAM sensor CMP shorted. or wires to it. next is the A#1 class shorts of all time on cars. the 4 heaters shorted in all 4 oxygen sensors 1 is shorted as is the 4 wires touch 2000f exh pipe and short, so easy. VCM PIN C1-P4 SHORTED, NAME IGNITION POWER I TO VCM EGR PARTS SHORTED FAM SENSOR SHORTED THAT IS ALL FOR NOW, NOT READING ALL 100 PAGES OF SCEMATICS TO FIND ALL ENG1 $20 COST (BOOKS ARE NOT FREE) https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Sounds like a 350. Do you know what it came out of year and make? 5.7L = 350

Hi,
You will need to contact Chevy dealer [s] for this. Take the VIN# down and call Chevrolet they will print them out free for you.

The fuse marked ECM

I can't give you a schematic but i can tell you where the wires should go;Battery post of the alternator should go to the center post of the battery splitter box that splits between the engine and the house.In the alternator plug the wire closest to the battery post of the alternator needs to go to the charge light or an ignition source.The other pin in the plug can just be looped the the battery post of the alternator.If you have no power to the alternator but do have power to the box that splits the power from vehicle to house the you need to put all the wires on the post marked batt until you can get a new one,this should get you up and running.If you are planing to remain camping with the temporary repairs made then separate the wires until you are ready to start the camper to prevent a dead battery condition if the house battery gets run down.Hope this helps.

B1071 internal sdm problem and the other code for it is 75 internal derm module faulty I have this on my 98 Chevy cavalier basic 2.2l ohv and what is the code for the theft system on it

have new cab you say. C/k3500 7.5 , AKA 427CUIN , GASOLINE the pumps on all cars/trucks only RUN WHEN: 1: KEYON FOR 1 TO 2 SECONDS AND ENDS.the prime act. 2: full time on cranked so #1 and #2 is 2 man job lacking super long tests leads. 3: full time running engine,the pump has 12vdc on some if spark fails pump is shut off instantly.(all fuel is cut if spark is lost) this fails the pump ground is bad or the fuel pump relay bad or not even energizing. fuses blown tops the lest make sure engine has spark. and will run on test fuel (spray)

Sounds like there is a ground problem with the light. Check the bulb connections and the ground to the lens assembly.

Question edited for clarity. Please always include model. Videos and articles. https://www.google.com/search?q=1977+chevy+install+throttle+body+injection ..

follow the link I am providing below for this info.

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp?sid=101932511&uid=ns011811.main.autorefctr

Hope this will help with what you need

Firing order for small block chevy is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the driver's side of the engine counting front to back. Passenger side is 2-4-6-8, front to back. You will need to get #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. To do this, remove the #1 spark plug and remove the coil wire from the distributor cap. You will need a helper for the next step. Place your index finger in the empty spark plug hole, Have your helper bump the starter with the ignition key, When #1 cylinder comes up on the compression stroke, the pressure will push your finger away from the spark plug hole. Don't worry, this doesn't hurt. Turn the key off. Check the timing mark on the harmonic balancer behind the crankshaft pulley. It should be pretty close to lining up with the "0" timing mark on the pointer attached to the engine block. Now pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor cap is pointing. This will be #1 on the distributor cap. The spark plug wire from the #1 plug will occupy that position. The next position on the distributor cap will be for the plug wire coming off the #8 cylinder. The rest of the plug wires will attach to the distributor cap in the above mentioned firing order counting clockwise. If you do not wish to place your finger in the #1 spark plug hole, you can use a piece of paper towel roll up and stuck in the hole just enough to form a seal. When the piston comes up on the compression stroke it will force the paper towel out. Any questions, just let me know.

when you disconnected the battery and pcm you cleared -erased all codes and settings [emission ready ] so you would fail inspection until vehicle went through its cycles their are quick cycles that work sometimes other is mileage usually about 125 miles for some gm vehicles --emission ready when cleared does not throw check engine light unless their is a problem or failure with one or more of the systems https://dmv.ny.gov/brochure/what-do-you-mean-my-cars-not-ready http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html

the one on my full size chevy is pressed in, i got a new one from the dealer and pressed it back in by putting a 19mm deep socket over it and taping it in with a hammer

THE horn piece should turn with the wheel lock plate. if it does not then something is not installed properly

the number which is less is in miles.

YouTube !

There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)