Buick Riviera - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. 'crank module'? Do you mean 'crankshaft position sensor'. https://www.google.com/search?q=1990+Buick+Riviera+replace+the+crank+sensor ..

The transmission may not be dropping in low gear. Manually shift the transmission into low when you come to a stop then shift to second and then 3. See it that works. Could have control valve problems.

not told at all which end leaks (the exact spot matters) I bet there is lots more wrong ! when did car last run good, or not leak ATF last week,, last year, last decade? what?clues help. history matters on all and service done. for 39 years last owner left the pan loose and 2 bolts left and 5 turns loose, we cant see under any car. front seal blown on or behind TC rear seal; blown pan gasket a wreck pan hit rocks and cut and leaks side shifter rod seal blown or sensors on it leak (VSS) governor cap seals blown./ more, sure.

No, you do not need to remove the torque axle bolt to replace the serpentine belt on your 1995 Buick Riviera Supercharged Series 1. However, you may need to use a serpentine belt tool to relieve tension on the belt before you can remove it.

Have you tried looking at EBay? I did a quick search and found this. Not sure if this is what you are looking at but certainly there would be a matching pigtail. Otherwise a junkyard (call before you go) and you can probably get one from another GM car. Full size gm chassis with the same engine

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0171-obd-ii-trouble-code-system-too-lean-bank-1-by-andrew-quinn All codes are OBD II. You can google them fro your answer.

Hello. It seems your Buick's engine is 'flooded' with gas in one or more cylinders. This will cause the engine to 'race' because of a fire in one or more cylinders. The engine gets to high rpm and stays there; this is not good! Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Hello. Your fuel pump assembly has to be replaced. The float level assembly is 'crimped' onto the main fuel 'body'; making it nearly impossible to just buy another 'float' and install it. Another scenario is it could be an 'issue' with the ECM/PCM. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Driver left side, bottom of the dash

inlet should be 5/8, outlet 3/4. inlet is coolant to heater core. Outlet is return line. Hope it helps

Under car ahead of fuel tank on left side

If I remember correctly, it should be on the drivers inner fender in front of the left front tire under the hood. Seems like it should be hiding behind the washer bottle or the coolant reservoir.

Should be under the dash, behind left hand side of the instrument panel to left of steering column.

I would anticipate 9 quarts or liters if the torque converter is also dry. Most fluid will go in the converter with only a quart or so in the pan.

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) The TDM is what tells your computer that the correct key is being used and that it is "OK" to allow the vehicle to start and run. These 3 parts must be in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending important signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, (normally due to a failing/broken part) the car goes into antitheft mode. The car misinterperates this and thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is NOT getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. So basically, if that light is on, your system has some sort of failing part. This can start as an intermittent "no start", to your vehicle not running for days at a time, to the vehicle NEVER starting again. The problem is electrical and computer based, so don't count on an easy reset button, or the problem fixing itself. The hard part is isolating which part is the problem. You can spend a thousand dollars through a mechanic very easily. I have had great luck with bypassing the entire system. This way the problem will never return. It actually CAN'T ever return because it is eliminated. This can also be done yourself at a much cheaper cost. Read through this link very carefully. You'll find alot of information and pictures, along with ways to help you fix this. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/

can't be done. They do make bypass kits though

Your alternator is fried when you get a new alternator your car will work better

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

replace the cam shaft position sensor

Have you checked the brake fluid level?