sounds like the torque converter clutch may be locked up.You need to have someone with a scanner look at the lock up data and see if the torque converter clutch is engaged.
Could be a ground problem , do you know about automotive electrical circuit's ? Has a B+ voltage side an a ground side to compleat the circuit back to the negative side of the Battery ? Looking at wiring diagrams for the affected system's i see they share a common ground point . G 201 ,do you know about body grounds ? I would look for a loose connection . G201
Below the IP, left side of the steering column
Problem might be related to the ambient temperature and/or humidity.
Good scanner software will indicate faults that are pending, that might cause trouble in the future or occasionally but not switch on the engine light and record a fault.
There is no substitute for careful and systematic manual checking in a back to basics fashion. It would have been helpful if you had described rough running more fully - was it hunting, surging, misfiring?
The first two can be associated with air/fuel mixture and the latter is often related to worn spark plugs, poor spark or perhaps even a failing cylinder head gasket.
That's usually a sign of overheating due to a poor connection. Buy a replacement socket and splice it in place using heat shrinkable tubing to keep water out. Apply a light film of dielectric grease int he socket. Then clean the ground connections. That should solve the problem
The fuel pressure regulator on w bodies is right on the fuel rail. It looks like a top that kids play with sort of, there is a vacuum line that plugs into it, ironically this is how you test it, you simply unplug the rubber line that plugs into it and smell the end of that hose, if it smells like gasoline its bad, if gas drips out, its really bad. BTW this is usually the culprit when 3.1 act like what you described. Also if you have an oil leak on the end of the engine, drivers side, it is a pretty simple fix, the oil pump drive is where its leaking it is a simple o-ring, make sure to get a silicone one or you will probably be doing it again soon, NaPA has them on their help rack. Best of luck.
could possibly be
to get the correct firing, order in your browser page search bar type in- firing order for dodge regal -- and you will get pages and diagrams to help you get it right
Having a qualified repair shop do diagnostic's on the vehicle would be your best bet . Could be any number of thing's ,engine mangement system sensor's , fuel system , ignition system , engine mechanical systems etc.... Could be as simple as just needing spark plug's & wire's , fuel filter . But , some testing should be done by a qualified technician with a professional scanner .You don't want to get into a guessing game , one person tell's you it's this or that , because without doing testing they are just guessing .
011 Fuel System Tests Fuel System Scan Data012 Ignition System Tests Start Here
these videos are just to show the complexity of these computer systems .
You need to take it to a qualified repair shop that has a factory or professional type scan tool an have all the computers on the vehicle checked . Check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes ,module data etc.
I think you should buy repair manual first for your vehicle after that it will be easy for you to solve the problem. Check the link may be you will find something us Best Manuals
Are you sure it's the motor and not a wiring issue? Test the motor FIRST. See link below
This is a cable driven window regulator. If you can reach the bolts that attach the glass to the regulator, just remove them and the glass will be free. If you can't reach the bolts, you'll have to cut the cables to free up the glass. Replace the regulator as a single unit.
Test power window regulator Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice
It sounds like your idle control valve is sticking. The video shows you where they are located on a 97 Buick but it is the same engine.
This video shows you how to replace them.
when coasting to a stop do you have your foot on the brake
if so , test the brake booster for a vacuum leak
simple test
put the hand brake on and start the car
idles ok ,--no problems
put your foot on the brake
idles ok --not the booster
engine stalls , falters ---brake booster failure
I f you are talking about replacing the remote have you tried the release from the inside? if so check fuses for that circuit and then check the relay and stand up close to the car and try it again and maybe just a weak battery! Not in the car, in the remote. Will be waiting to hear back from you.
