AC Cars & Trucks - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Chevrolet Lumina 2006 3.6L, not sold here ever in 2006 USA)_?Lumina ended in USA 2001but sold here 2005–2006 (Philippines model)or 1999–2012 (Holden-based model)so you are in Australia?------S.Africa. reading the wiki shows wild variation of the car world wide I I give up helpinglacking COUNTRY. (parts are that same world wide at all)start an AC (air conditioning post) by stating what fail. AC dead, AC weak, AC mode fail (dampers).what country is this sold to.???what engine is there. 3.6L is " Holden Commodore" is what this car really is. badge'd as chevy Lumina.tell what the AC does wrong,?weak, dead, controls dead, dampers fail mode settings. fails AC if engine is too hot (this is normal)AC may cut off if engine or transmission are in trouble gross DTC errors scanned.<< modern cars do that. !!!the car needs service so take it to a shop for cars? there are no vacuum controls under the dash 2006 but there are no Holden cars here/(USA)

no car told , just 1999, maker and model a secret and country. fuses first. then blower fails on high, does it? if no there can be a blower resistor on old card. TOPIC is HAVC not all cars use a resister on the lows speeds, and not new cars./ most times it is mounting on the blower casing due to that fact it gets super hot and must be air cooled (flow) or burns up. if car is USA< is it this works answer the question and rent the book ,I DO and I pay'. https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

no model told so no JOY, sorry . call for service or buy and read the shop manual; fish or cut bait. (means pick one)

Very good, but there is no question here, just a statement. 'Freon' is a brand name used for all refrigeration gases and in most cases incorrect as use has ceased to protect the ozone layer. Freon (/?fri??n/ FREE-on) is a registered trademark of the Chemours Company and generic descriptor for a number of halocarbon products. They are stable, nonflammable, low toxicity gases or liquids which have generally been used as refrigerants and as aerosol propellants. In the mid-1970s, photochemical dissociation of Freons and related CFCs was implicated as a major cause of the apparent degradation of Earth's ozone layer. Depletion of the ozone could create a threat to animal life on Earth because ozone absorbs ultraviolet radiation that can induce skin cancer. The use of Freons in aerosol-spray containers was banned in the United States in the late 1970s. By the early 1990s, accumulating evidence of ozone depletion in the polar regions had heightened worldwide public alarm over the problem, and by 1996 most developed countries had banned the production of nearly all Freons. Monte Carlo air conditioning is 2.4 lbs (38.4 ounces) of R-134a refrigerant. How it is done, a Tip I wrote. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29878326-recharging_vehicle_air_conditioner ..

Two potential failures come to mind for this issue; a dirty cabin filter or a fuel system leak. Cabin filters catch debris that is suspended in the air before it comes out of the vents. These contaminants build up on the surface of the filter and can produce a foul odor and reduce airflow. If this is the case, the cabin filter simply needs to be replaced in order to resolve the problem. A fuel system leak is another possibility but is a much more serious issue. Fuel that escapes the system will evaporate into the air which can then be drawn into the A/C system via the fresh air intake (located beneath the cowl area, close the the windshield wipers). Although this would cause a foul odor in the cabin, the bigger problem is that flammable liquid is close to a heat source (exhaust) under the hood which is a recipe for disaster. Because this is a potential safety issue, I'd recommend having a trained mechanic inspect for a fuel leak and repair as necessary. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-find-odors-in-a-car-by-robert-tomashek

no year car so is an impossible question ,sorry/. need to now what's up first. (down?, LoL) state a problem hot or cold, defrost,. modes, blend or recirc modes. lots of things to fail or work 1/2 way. but there is only one answer. RTM manual here HVAC is so complex that it can even shut down if engine is too hot or driving wot, wide open throttle. or see fans dead and saves the engine, A/C killed dead. on purpose. so not me posting all that, end to end all day. the manual is here. https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp or at alldata.com this is not spam the links is my most used, (I pay too) first is check fuse the 2nd is scan the PCM for DTC errors. check engine lamp not on driving or idling. post a real problem and we work only that. saves tons of time.

Without specifics about your vehicle, I can only say its probably an issue with your idle control. Vehicles generally have a way to increase rpm to compensate for the drain the compressor puts on the motor.

I am not near my manuels but you can ask google on your phone and believe this or not they will answer your question just press the microphone in the box on the main page where is my a/c compressor relay good luck

depending on the type of vehicle the clutch will come off with a clutch remover most auto parts will loan it to you caution it also takes another tool to install and must be gauged the gap distance

this is super basic HVAC. what is a cycle switch ,under hood, the hi/low pressure switch use a volt meter, a $15 dmm set to and find the answer easy working with no service manual and that has the schematics. learn rule #1 the system wants to do self protection even the engine too hot cut the AC dead(via clutch) r134A REFRIGERANT TOO HIGH PRESSURE. (not wrecking the compressor or to low doing the same running it dry would be a train wreck. 2000 Lincoln Navigator I will now read to you the schematic and all fail points to dead clutch and yes clutches sure do fail, but if the pin on it is 12vcd and clutch dead then the clutch is bad. 0v on or say below 10v. is bad logic feeding, and not simple so I will not tell you all that now there are 9 pages on AC in the manual (wiring only) and some kind silly odd thing. called roof opening (sun roof?) I guess it shuts off if sun roof opened or its switch fibbing all are called permissives by me. let me run a list. 1: all fuse good the 10a and 40amp.and more for AC. 2: blower in dash works at least on high. 3: ok cycling switch means hi/low switch and below 23psi AC ends and above and pressure switch 2 closes a 260 PSI or less. 4: both switches PSI all 4 lugs 2x2 must be at 12vdc, or no AC possible ever, due wrong R134a pressures. (both or 1) 5:THE PCM runs the clutch via WOT relay (bad name) is PCM operators and 2 fuses. . this is the clutch RELAY +WOT !!! relay pin 3/ 5 are 12vdc or relay IS bad or PCM not happy on pin PIN1 (0V HAPPY 12V NO HAPPY THIS PIN) what makes PCM happy well the 2 pressure (R134a) are closed both and 12vdc sent to PCM the PC will cut the relay off line do WOT event. (wide open throttle.) for passing a logging truck(my lil;' joke there) i have no ideal how open roof works. the PCm may stop AC IF ENGINE GETS TOO HOT. OR IS IN SOME LIMPHOME MODE CEL GLOWING. CHECK ALL PINS ON THE 2 pressure switches then pin 4 of WOT relay 12v and pin 1 is 0vdc. PCM happy pin.coil pin,. the clutch now has 12vdc from pin 4 above and energizes. these simple tests find the problem or we just learn PCM is not happy and work that if true. using $15 voltmeter. easy when I say 12vdc it means 13.3 to 15vdc, gen volts that is. schemo 1 12vdc top or fuse blown. 2 more fuses both 12vdc out. see this WOT relay, pin 5 is 12vdc if not clutch dead. bottom right. see my 0v below that is the PCM AC happy pin, 0v means happy and the clutch slams HOME fast. and hard. this is the start and end if PCM is happy just 2 drawing of 9 shows what to do to find cause. the WOT RELAY CAN BE JUST BAD OR INTERMITTENT. ONE CAN PULL THE RELAY AND JUMPER 3 TO 4 AND HOTWIRE THE CLUTCH (SHORT TIME PROVING IT WORKS)_ IF R134 IS LOW DO NOT HOT WIRE ANY CLUTCH. USE A PRESSURE GAUGE ON THE LOW SIDE PORT. The low side pressure at 100f outside, is about 40 to 80psi low side, psi. full blast, fresh air doors open , full cold full blow. I make no claims to know all things that can make PCM unhappy.for AC, but blower dead, engine overheating. hi and lo R134a switch open. WOT cuts AC on huge hills.full throttle. Check engine light may. (no sure, but some cars yes)) and sure all fuses good.

Give this a try. You can also look on the fan shound, it's usually priced there

no car told at all maker model or year, 100 years of cars made.. so let me guess pulled the alternator and skipped step 1. the battery lugs disconnected. first first first. !!! and that bad act, blows up the main alternator fuses or worst the inline fuseable link. boom , making 10 alternators put in now dead; learn to test the alternator first. 13.3vdc to 15vdc running below is bad or bad shorted battery battery is 12.6vdc key off , rested.... a 10v battery is no good, (for sure after bench charged) learn to load test the battery , even autostores can do it ,free. with the $25 load tester, and must be charged first by you ,using real battery charger. then load test it. did you know a battery short out, (not just dead) but shorted and this overloads the battery or blows the huge 100amp fuse.(varies by 100 years of cars the amps) no car told this is a generic answer., ASE class week 1 topics basics. many times if the battery reads 10vdc one cell of 6 is shorted if the charger can not get it to 12.6vdc the battery is TOAST and some batteries even go intermittent, <<< see why I hate them. a battery can fail in 5 years.. a very short lived thing, compared to all else. next time before swapping in things and doing it wrong as how to test first, using a $15 dmm meter, Jumps start started the car. but as you saw the alternator is dead (dim lights) and did not look at the huge fuses for the alternator blown. 50 to 150amps, (rice burners to huge trucks) a running car runs 100% off the alternator, only the battery is kept charged up for the next cranking event. that is how it works ( not talking 1930 car 6v here) << and can. next times post year maker and model car and engine size displacement. ( 2.0L or 5.7L or ?)gas or diesel or LNG)

In the link. You will need the connector won't you?

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If it's truly random, especially with a lot of "stuttering" on startup, the brushes in the blower motor may be worn out. Otherwise, it might be a temperature control function.

not a wire or coat hanger. use something softer, to probe the drain hose. bottom up. or risk damage to the evap core, and $1000+ repair. use a plastic straw or or even better a bathroom drain cleaner rod. NO METAL tools. there. 2nd best is wood stick or rod do not put your body under any car, held up only with jacks. use Jack stands at least 2, and chock wheels. be safe or at a tire shop to put it on lift 100% safe. and rod it out. a tool sold in most stores , and hardware stores.) safe, for car. this cleans the fungus out of the drain pipe evap, too.

1995 with factory air or not (AC) what engine is there. not he Diesel right>? 1994-95 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines, ?????? they are NOT ALL THE SAME . the car is old, super old, most are not on the road now, (look around) unless huge costly upgrades done and I have many. no engine size told nor country as in cars not the same all over earth and are called EXPORTS in USA makers site;. the cause are beside you replacing ALL THAT already, omg,. OMG new belt not listed, why:? forgot that first? I will assume a new Gates belt put here, as old belts sure can fail and drift off any pulley,(Ribs or not) the answer is alignment is wrong or tension is wrong seen this vast times, me. seen and fixed, some are parts missing that cause it to be mis-aligned or using the WRONG PARTS (all in your list and more) if the harmonic balance looks good (i can;'t see it) and is not bend or wobbles when run, or belt rib groves no missing or rusted away or the bolt holding it missing bad , broken or set to spec torque? then it is good. (mostly( and if shims or washers or the like behind it not missing. see all parts at the dealers parts pages for missing parts. there is 1 idler here left side facing engine and its bearing must not be bad. the tension-er is a prime device here, not junk import no name parts from china need apply. as is perfect alignment off all things under that SERP. the belts can be damaged easy even run one backwards (reversed) and if you did thatit not has set to it, and will never run straight again.so learn this hint. doing serviceput and arrow on the belt up top left to right I use Liquid paper, and now the arrow tells me laterhow to not run it backwards ever.hint #1 some belts have an arrow already and those must never be run backwards. (arrow i crank rotation and is CW ,clock wise facing damper pulley)lots to learn about serps if they fail

USA are you or Europe???? hint cars not the same.world wide. Mercedes-Benz ( the makers here have no service manuals sold to owners) <<< makes repairs hard and expensive. R12 OR IS CAR UPGRADED TO R134A OR R1234? well it has 2 caps on the port. so 2 there are there are 2 lines there, one is huge one is small one side is called low side, and the the other is high side. best is not touch the 300PSI (21 BAR.) SMALL LINE TUBE. do not attach a walmart R12 can here or it will explode. in the face, OK end safety rant1, and where goggles. the low side is about 10X LESS ABOUT 30 PSI THE R12 RETURNS HOT AND IN GAS FORM. USING LARGE TUBE. THE COMPRESSOR COMPRESSES THE GAS BACK TO A LIQUID STATED, AND SEND THIS LIQUID TO THE CAB EXPANSION VALVE TO GET COLD. ONLY MESS WITH THE LARGE LINE , PORT R12, IS FACTORY PORT, THIS IS ORIGINAL 1999, WHAT IS THERE NOW I'VE NEVER A CLUE BLINDED IN A TEXT BOX. HERE.. MESS ONLY WITH LOW SIDE. OR BOOM, THE HIGH SIDE CAN EVEN HIT AND EYE AND BLIND YOU. EASY. GOOGLE ARE NECESSARY. IN REAL SHOP THESE 2 ARE CONNECTED TO A TOOL CALLED A MANIFOLD. AND IS USED IN A SAFE MANOR. A SKILL TECH TRIES NOT TO INTRODUCE AIR TO THE LOOP AND DOES SO PURGING LINES IN THE MANIFOLD FIRST. AIR IS BAD, BAD NEWS. (AND AIR IS EVERY WHERE)<LOL

You're assuming it's electrical. You'll need a manifold gauge set and temperature probes to properly diagnose it. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to diagnose car AC problems. https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/auto-ac-repair-and-diagnostics-step-by-step-approach/

Sounds like the ac system is freezing up, they are supposed to cycle the compressor on and off the keep the pressures in spec to prevent this but failed cycling switches and or overcharged or undercharged Freon can also cause this. When the ac quits pop the hood and look at the ac lines, is one of them covered in ice? If so it's definitely freezing up. Finding out why is the fun part.

no info generic answer have vehicle scanned for trouble codes if 96 and newer [check fuses and relays on ac /c ] power steering can be affected if problem with belt if its a newer vehicle they use a serpitine belt so all components can be affected if belt slips or fails