AC Greyhound - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 5

change cell.which is installed in key or central lock remote.if it is OK then check software of ecu faults.

The correct fix would be to vacuum everything out and weigh in the correct amount.

does it have a full freon charge? 24 year old vehicle it may have leaked out, there are several connections that may need to resealed with new o rings. https://fuse-box.info/mercury/mercury-grand-marquis-1998-2002-fuses-and-relay https://www.autogenius.info/mercury-grand-marquis-third-generation-1998-2002-fuse-box-diagram/

Take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop , have battery an charging system test.

hey they all work great new, but not now, the endless story. no car told no year told no model card told (fun?) hot air is actually outdoor air? that is 100F here. USA?> as you do know the HVAC on cars can in fact fail and stick in heater mode.(damper failures) rules of the game AC. (short list I have huge list, ask as we do tests) 1: the dampers must work correctly in the heater box. 2: the compressor must spin (and does) 3: the refrigerant must not be over charged, ever or it will fail. ample is not the correct word, the correct words are the Refrigerant it put in by weight. (an exact measure ask any HVAC shop and hear those words) 5: engine over heat sensor shuts down AC. (not this case) compressor spins, so. no this. 6:blower is dead, in AC mode( not this case it blows) 7: the condenser fan up front is dead, fails parked but AC works great at highway speeds. 50mph (+) on my car the ac/heater has self test mode, to be sure all damper motors work correctly so we do that first. (mine is JEEP) most modern cars have 3 dampers, hot cold and recirculate. use recirc mode for AC for best cooling. some AC have hidden in dash filter that packs up in lint and can not pass air now. on one car a rodent got into the fresh air vent and went deep into the heater box nest built, but was in front of AC evap core but blocked cold air from evap core. ( what a shock) why not take it to any ASE shop and as for diagnosis. pay the man to do al tests on AC and if you over filled it , bingo you caused it. the modern R134a , hates overfilled. !! repeat for effect. Are you measuring from the Low side with the AC ON? Because you need to do that. (and out door temp tables read that) the factory service manual tells what it must be. and no 2 cars are the same due to volume the same. classic case of fail. (sad story time) R134a leaks out, (so many ways on cars) and owner buys the $12 Walmart kit and overfills. it. and fails. or worst case 2: if pressure was zero , key off and on. the loop now has water inside the loop (called humid air) and that makes it bad after a refill. the water is the killerr here.! must be vacuum pumped down first this case. why not get it serviced by pros. they do a full leak test with dye. do it now.

2005 year, BMW (secret) 325i, engine , inline 6cyl. the E46, engine type. M54B22 2.17liters.???? the USA engine or Europe or what?NO country told wow that is a hard nut question.get it serviced in a real shop ! end.no real evidence told, only what means limp, ASE defined, USA>? or you speak that in some untold why ,what does limp mean to you.ASE defines that is what you get in EFI PCM limphome mode. or CEL lamp stuck on. and...limp home, happens on many things in car.ECU/PCM limp for engine , failures DTC gross errors, why not scan the PCm first.? SCAN it with real BMW scan tool to see all BMW codes (DTC)transmission limp mode. happen too, again scan it.if in use the scan tool OBD2 fits to the 16pin USA scan port called DLC. and a good tool sees all P0xxx codes and P1xxx p2 ,p3 up BMW factory codes. DTC, using the wrong tool is working blindno modern car can be fixed now lacking a tool of such kinddrive line, airbags, ABS, and more. lots more.NO RPM told hot and cold engine, and parked or driven, that is huge clue thatis the thermostat stuck open?> not a 180f to 200f coolant scanned.voltage goes down? if battery voltage on 800rpm HOT running engine falls below 13.3vdc the alternator is failing13.3 to 14.7 is par, running, below never.key off is 12.6v SOC 100% fully charged.Limp on the engine, PCM , means gross engine control errorsof senors or actuators or even a bad engine.and all set DTC errors you forgot to do that. scan it first.Check engine lamp glows running is the 1st clueA.K.a. CEL, SES OR MIL LAMP.there are lots of symptoms not told and good and bad both matter !!and no tests done at all. parts replaced sure. tell more evidence. or do the tests. both.

Replace the low pressure switch?

You may have a low pressure switch that is bad not allowing the power to get to the compressor. Also maybe a some bad wiring in the system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXz5jxDLgZ0 This video will help you locate the drain on the lower passenger side of the firewall.

check fuse and relay-and freon ---- get a meter and check wiring and components and start with the cleaned up wiring

Most often caused by a bad fan relay. This is a complicated system. Read the post below and download the GM wiring diagrams. Then check the fuses and relays. All 3 relays must be in perfect working order for the system to work properly. Car overheats Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

Low on refrigerant. Check to be sure

undercharged--overcharged--compressor failure--blown fuse/relay--mode door vent--climate control failure--

Some type of short somewhere in the system. The clutch coil is best bet.

There are low and high pressure switches on the coolant high and low side and if there is low coolant (freon ) the switch is open and wont allow the compressor to run. IF the switch is disconnected it wont run. Check the system pressure.

With system under vacuum, refrigerant will go in without the compressor running. As pressure comes up in the system, the compressor will begin to run, creating a lower pressure on the Low side. System needs to be under a vacuum to start. Make sure you only fill to the specified amount.

The possible problem is a bad blend door that is stuck on the heater side. Could be a bad actuator or something that is jamming the door keeping from changing. Some actuators are vacuum operated so check for bad vacuum lines.

Need the make, model and year.