If the plug/s are wet , that is flooding and that is excessive fuel or float level , probably from a problem in the needle and seat area where the fuel supply is not being controlled
remove the needle and seat and clean all dirt and rubbish from the needle ans seat area
could come from rust and dirt in the tank so consider an inline fuel filter before the carby/s
SOURCE: 2001 Yamaha Banshee that won't stay running
If your jetting is too rich it will be extremely hard to kick start it and will most likely flood it from kicking.First thing i would do is pull the top of the carbs off (cable,slides and needles) and see which clip they're set at. If they are set stock which would be middle clip then lower the needle one clip. This will lean the mix out and should start up easier with no problems,The idle issue is most likely just off.If your fiance still has the TORS on it then on top of the carbs he will see 2 dime size and screws and wires as soon as he takes his seat off.While running he can turn each dime size screw in or out to adjust the idle. If it has a TORS elimator kit on it then he won't have all the junk on top of the carbs and it will be just a cable and round cap screwed directly on top of the carbs and the idle screws will be on the side of each carb (brass color screws with nuts to tighten) same thing...in or out to adjust the idle where needed.Hope this helps.
-Steve
SOURCE: My FZR600 won't start. No mods, all stock. I got
it is possible that th eplugs might be fouled but it seems unlikely after only two weeks running-my fzr would foul plugs but it usually takes months not weeks-also the engine would start but run on2 or 3 cyls. I found using one heat range hotter than standard plugs helped,esp. around town you seem to have been fairly methodical on your troubleshooting-if you have fuel and spark the next thing to check is comp. -if the plugs are wet it is likely fuel not oil-when I first bought mine it had sat over winter and would not start -it turned out that the valve clearances had closed up enough that it was low on comp. when ridden frequently it was ok but as soon as the oil had drained off the cyl walls it would not start-squirting oil in the cyls. would get it started but I pulled the cams and set valves to solve problem-starts ok now but I don't use the choke-you could lift the cover and check your valve clearances -it would be a good idea on a bike that you just bought-don't give up -be methodical and check one thing at a time-when you get it going it will be worht it
SOURCE: Won't idle without choke
The pilot jet controls the air/gas fuel mix at idle . If the jet gets plugged up not enough gas gets to the emgine at idle. You will need to remove the carbs and float bowls and clean them, paying special attention to the pilot valve. Count the number of turns to remove the pilot screw and replace the same number of turns then turn counter clockwise 1/2 turn.
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SOURCE: starts and stays running with choke on. stalls
Pay special attention to the parts in red. DO NOT mix parts from the front carb with parts from the back carb. When removing adjuster screws and jets, count the number of turns to remove them, write it down, and replace with the same number of turns.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual.
www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp Most all of the manuals are in English but some are not. There is no way to be sure without doing the download. You can always delete it if in a foreign language.
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SOURCE: Yamaha 2001 ttr 250. Bogs above half speed, under load
I have the same problems with my 1999 TTR 250, were you able to find out anything?
Walt
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