Yard Man Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Try this. Disconnect the one single wire going to the solenoid. Use an ohm meter to see if there is 12 volts DC at this wire when you turn the key switch in the start position. If you have voltage then your solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. If you dont have voltage, check the safety switchs for proper operation.

if its a newer mower take the top off the engine there will be a round plastic piece twist around till it stops stick a screw driver threw it to hold put the string threw your handles and back threw the cover you should see a hole in the plastic piece put in there and tie a knot hold the rope and pull out screw driver rope should wind itself up

Black or white? Whats it smell like?

Ok! So whats the question? Whats the model number?. Is it an overhead valve engine? W do you need to know?

Low engine compression due to Prior Stale fuel in mix caused problem. Damaged piston & cylinder.

This can be a loose belt that is slipping, low fluid in the transaxle, a bad pump (if hydrostatic transaxle) or worn gears, start by checking belt tension, then replace the fluid and filling to proper level, if that fails, the trans will need to be inspected for internal damage to pump and gears

It sounds like you either have a lose belt that is slipping or the fluid in the transaxle is low, or the transaxle is going bad, if it is a hydrostatic transaxle, drain and replace the fluid first, if that fails, you may have a bad seal in the pump or a worn gear

If you post the model # it would be helpful. You can often times find the engineering drawings at partstree.com/parts. YardMand is actually made by MTD so you would have to look in that category under walk behind mowers.

Clicking is normally means there is not enough power to the solinoid, which means the battary is flat, or the connections on the battary are loose or coroded.

YOU NEED TO REBUILD YOUR CARB WITH NEW DIAGPHRAMS AND SEATS

The recoil spring maybe broke or worn out.Use caution when replacing because the spring maybe under tension.

Check to see if one of your deck spindles isn't seized. Disengage the blades and turn each blade to see if its free. Sounds like either a spindle is seized or your electric clutch on the motor has a problem.

Check for blown fuse if good put a light tester on the starting then turn the key if your tester lights up then you know that the stater is bab if it does not then you do not have power to the shotch. One red wire should have power all the time and the other red wire should have power only when the key is on.

Not sure if they are trying it on, i can tell you there are two ways the con rod can break, one is the engine over speeding ( this should be set from the factory assuming it has not been tampered with ) the second reason is the engine has been run short of oil the big end then seizes which in turn breaks the rod, either way the dealer should examine the engine and give a valid reason as to why the engine has failed prematurley, not just say its toast.

go to mtdparts.com under the support folder you will find operator manuals click itenter your model number where prompted download the pdf file. and thats it

contact southern supply company at 205-833-2525 or email them at

[email protected] and I feel sure Jason or

someone there can help you.

My zipper went bad so I purchased velcro and sewed it in, works better then the zipper ever did!!!

Kut it moor offtan to it tont Det to hight. ????? O tay.

I'll guess and say that the carb flooded the engine and you have hydro lock.Pull the sparkie and clear the extra fuel. The carb is at fault,IMO.if the needle get a little dirt in there it will hold the float open and flood the motor. Dirt.

Carbon build up in engine or fouled sparkplug