Ximeta Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

I would go into your disc management and see if it is recognised there, if it is, see if it has a drive letter assigned to it. try plugging it into a different usb port and wait until it has run up before trying to access it. if you say no to the format request you should be able to do a disc scan that would repair the error.

You need to stop using Vista as Microsoft has not supported it since 2014. OK to use Vista for a while after 2014 because Windows Update still gave security updates for other Windows products (Word, Works, etc.). But now, Windows Update for Vista will not work anymore for anything. At least switch to Windows 7 as Microsoft will probably support it until 2020.

Try formatting it using Hiren Boot DiscHire a Hacker

edwards4549

The links below will show you how to assign drive letters.

How to change your drive letter in Windows Vista and Windows 7

How to change your drive letter in Windows XP

Let me know if you have any more problems or questions

Issken
http://www.fixya.com/users/issken

I have the same problem. I don't have the right solution but I discovered a workaround.
The problem occurs everytime when I install a windows 7 update.
My work around:

1. When Windows determines an update I disable the NDAS service with msconfig
2. The update is installed without the NDAS service operational.
3. After update I enable the NDAS service with msconfig
4. I restart my computer. Then it freezes.
5. After a hard reset, the computer restarts in Safe modus. I restart my computer and my computer works, till the next windows 7 update. Then I start again van 1.

Very suboptimal, but it works.

Anton

if your computer came with a motherboard disc the drivers could be on it click start control panel administrive tools ,computer management ,device manager look through all of your devices if you see a yellow question mark?or exclamation mark ! or red x right click to reinstall drivers or if you can see your usb but its not working ports(com&lpt)right click update driver make sure the lead/s that attach to this drive have a secure seating and are not bad/faulty the light on only tells that its getting power it might not be getting enough power you might test the lead/s or just replace the cable of the hard disk, when you plugged the external disk drive you got that windows could recognize the USB device change the cable everything should work fine again, sometimes the wires inside the cable will be damaged due to bending or stretching or placing heavy equipment upon the cable, check the USB leads that attach to the motherboard usually red-white-green-black make sure they are securely seated and have no dust build up on them dust will cause static and a lot of unforeseen problems hope this helps

This is a solution, but I have been having the same problem. Any help out there would be GREATLY appreciated.

hi

Decide which hard drive will be the startup (master) drive. If this drive was the startup drive previously, or if it's a new hard drive, then the master drive designation will already be set.

Step 2 To change the designation of a new drive to be a slave drive, skip to step 4.

Step 3 To change the designation of an existing drive to be a slave drive: Turn off the computer, unplug the power cord, remove the drive from its drive bay, and disconnect the drive from its power cord and ribbon cable.

Step 4 Check the hard drive documentation or the label on the drive itself for master/slave jumper settings.

Step 5 Find the jumpers on the circuit board of the drive. Jumpers are plastic plugs with metal sleeves that form a circuit between a pair of pins. Jumper locations are labeled on the board with a J followed by a number (such as J20).

Step 6 Use tweezers or very small pliers to remove or reposition the jumpers to the configuration shown in the documentation or on the disk label.

Step 7 Install (or reinstall) the hard drive in the computer. (See "How to Install a Second Hard Drive.")

vote me if you solve your problem

The Maxtor 90913D4 internal 7200 RPM hard drive can be connected via IDE, its a 9.1 GB drive with 512 KB of cache.

Try to Run scandisk to repair the drive. Also check for virus in your computer due to which you are facing this issue. Clean the virus from any antivirus tool with latest virus defination will solve your problem.

There is a very good possibility that this hard drive has crashed. However, there is a little trick you can try. Disclaimer: There is no guarantee this will work and there is a very good chance you will not be able to retrieve your data. If data is very important, I would recommend taking it to a data recovery specialist. If you would like to try on your own, seal the hard drive in a ziplock freezer bag and freeze overnight. Try to access your data as soon as you remove the hard drive from the freezer in the morning. (I have seen this trick give up to an hour or two of use out of a dead drive.)

Hope this helps

Hello

Thank you for using FixYa for your problem


Sorry but dead now, is it a clicking type of sound

Please rate our solutions and if you still have problems please call back for more ideas to help you

Thanks
Richard Scott
Technical Support
New Zealand

Burning smell is not good! Open it and check if the smell is coming from the drive or the enclosures circut.

It depends a lot on your operating system.

Try typing compmgmt.msc in the RUN box on the start menu

Select disk management and the disk you need to format and do it from there.

If you still have problems read on below

One or more of the hints below will probably sort out most USB problems with most USB portable / external hard drives and OTHER devices (though not always)

A few things to check but assumes USB and Windows for other interfaces / operating systems (mac/ Linux) similar steps may be adapted to suit.

1. Ensure it is connected directly to the computer to a USB 2.0 port not a USB 1.0 port as this can have effects on performance and reliability

2. Use only the cables that came with it NOT one that fits that may have been lying around or is longer. Not all USB cables are equal even though they should be)

3. Do not connect through an external USB HUB unless that hub is USB 2.0 AND has its own power supply.

4. Use ONLY the power supply that came with it if it has an external power supply Don’t use any other unless you know it has both the same voltage and current rating e.g. 12V 500mA anything rated below that would not work properly.

5. Always use the same port for connecting your devices. Some devices do not like being switched about. If switched they may want to install software / drivers again. This can be especially true if you move a HUB to another port
6. For FLASH DRIVES you should ensure that the device is set for "quick removal" using the drive control panel properties or use the USB "Safely Remove Hardware" option. If you dont do this there is a very strong chance that any files you transfer may not be there when you plug into another computer.

If you checked and fixed anything there and still have issues then check your hardware from CONTROL PANEL / SYSTEM / HARDWARE.
Any exclamation marks by hardware need fixing before you investigate any further

USB flash drives can fail for no apparent reason.
Sandisk Cruzers are especially bad for this.

USB hard drives should be treated with extreme care.
This is a real hard drive ! and knocks and bumps can quite literally kill them.

It is possible to remove drives from the enclosures in most cases and connect directly inside a PC to fully check it.
You should also do this to cheack the drives connections are not bad inside the enclosure

Note that if you hear a drive clicking or pinging this could be the worst thing you would hear.
Known as "The Click Of Death"

If none of the above steps help look at updating the drivers from the manufacturers web site in the support section.

Their website may have a download.

Hi Tatearian,

Ximeta, like many external drive manufacturers use a fairly custom AC adapter. Finding a replacement is not only difficult but often costs more than the enclosures are worth.

The simplest and cheapest thing to do is go to your local PC shop, ask the technicians there to remove the hard drive from the enclosure and put it in a new one. This won't cost any more than buying a replacement adapter and will be much simpler to do.


Hope this helps FixYa,


Chris

I hope that the information below may be of use to you

I devised these simple steps that tend to remedy quite a few issues with most USB portable / external hard drives and devices (though not always)

A few things to check but assumes USB and Windows for other interfaces / operating systems (mac/ Linux) similar steps may be adapted to suit.

1. Ensure it is connected directly to the computer to a USB 2.0 port not a USB 1.0 port as this can have effects on performance and reliability

2. Use only the cables that came with it NOT one that fits that may have been lying around or is longer. Not all USB cables are equal even though they should be)

3. Do not connect through an external USB HUB unless that hub is USB 2.0 AND has its own power supply.

4. Use ONLY the power supply that came with it if it has an external power supply Don’t use any other unless you know it has both the same voltage and current rating e.g. 12V 500mA anything rated below that would not work properly.

5. Always use the same port for connecting your devices. Some devices do not like being switched about. If switched they may want to install software / drivers again. This can be especially true if you move a HUB to another port

If you checked and fixed anything there and still have issues then check your hardware from CONTROL PANEL / SYSTEM / HARDWARE.
Any exclamation marks by hardware need fixing before you investigate any further

USB flash drives can fail for no apparent reason.
Sandisk Cruzers are especially bad for this.

USB hard drives should be treated with extreme care.
This is a real hard drive ! and knocks and bumps can quite literally kill them.

Sometimes it is possible to remove the drive from the case and install it direct into a computer to double check that the drive is OK
This depends on the interface eg SATA or IDE

If the drive is clicking / pinging then this is the worst noise you could hear from a hard drive as it is usually the "Click of death"

i think your Lexar is broke.. anyone can fix that is know about electronics circuit.

On the plastic sides of the case, near the back, there are 2 holes - one on each side. Inside these holes are recessed plastic tabs. You should be able to look in the holes and see part of the tab.

They don't take much force, but if you insert a straightened paperclip or coat hanger, just enough to push the tabs a couple of millimeters, you can then slide the top half of the case forward and off.

You may be right about a connection issue. But it's probably not a short. More likely, it's an open! Anyway, here's how to open the case:

There is a hole on each side of the NetDisk near the back. Face the back towards you, insert a blunt pencil tip or other blunt object able to fit in the hole on each side and press in. (Be gentle, these are plastic tabs on th inside)

At the same time, use your thumbs to slide the top half of the case away from you. (towards the front. Once you get ig toing, you can let go of the pencils and continue. forward with thte top of the case.