Whirlwind Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

That would be a very odd situation. My question would be has it always done this, or is this something new? Is in in all cable formats, or just xlr? You could open the unit and make sure a stray wire strand isn't across wire terminals, but that would be the limit of user servicable things for this. Other than that, contact the manufacturer.

on line look for washer dryers parts, lots of hose, just need specs

Some HVAC 'experts' install coil lines without a pressure outlet. (ecspecially older units) In which case, you will have to install one. Usually they are located outside very close to the compressor unit on the inflow copper line. If not present, you can chase the lines back to the cooler head in the furnace/cooling unit plenum. It would be visible at some point in the lines if it was installed in the first place.

defrost cycle may be faulty. They are usually simple timers with contacts that change the reversing valve. check to see if the RV is switching

the thermostat have 2 connection(1 normal open connection and 1 is normal open connection),and it necesary to put your conection on open connection.

Not sure what you need, but try here.

Check and make sure the condenser coil is clean and unobstructed.

Sounds like a faulty Tstat that's sending a low voltage signal to the contactor coil only sometimes. The high pressure cut out or the compressor's internal thermal protection could of opened, and then closed again after cooling. Make sure the condenser is clean and not obstructed.

There are many videos on youtube to help you. Try this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4BtZHrqHYQ

if liquid freon enters compressor it could break the discharge valve which in recip compressors is a reed type valve

Hello, sounds like either low airflow or a low refrigerant charge. The air slows down because the evaporator coil on the inside turns into basically a block of ice and blocks airflow. I would first make sure air filter is clean, evaporator coil is clean and that the blower motor is clean and running at proper speed. If that checks out good then the unit has a low charge.

We tend to only get new hoses when they split ot a leak is suspected.

The compressor needs to be running.Also you need freon charging guages and a pressure temp chart to tell how much you need to add.If your not sure of anything i said here have a service person do this.You take a risk of damaging the unit and yourself.

Is the compressor starting? On the outdoor unit you will see a large copper pipe and a small copper pipe. Is the larger of the two cold to the touch? wet? Just because a central air system is not blowing cool air does not mean it needs freon. If you have clogged filters it cannot do an air exchange. So, I would recommend checking the easiest things first before adding Freon.Most people make the mistake of adding Freon and overcharge their system. In a low load situation you can slug the compressor with liquid and your system is ruined. If you do have to add Freon it indicates that you have a leak. An AC System is a closed system and if it is working properly you should not have to add Freon.

You need to check the inside fan. Check the inside unit (where you change the filter), Open the panels and turn on the A/C Look for a panel switch located on the frame where you removed the panel and if there is a switch press it in. Listen for your fan to be turning, any scraping, scratching, means worn bearings, slow turning means bad relay, or capacitor. Hope this helps Fixya up.

Might of switched the wires if it was working before you changed the thermostat

First off, Freon is no longer approve and has been banded by the EPA R134a refrigerant is what is now approved. You will also need to have the proper gauges and pressure lines to attach to the compressor, to delivery the refrigerant gas. But, before you can do that, you must purge and capture any of the remaining Freon gas left in the compressor. The 2 different type of refrigerant gases shouldn't be mixed. Capturing the Freon requires a purging pump and tank.

After reading the above, if you still want to do it yourself, go by your local auto repair store and purchase all the equipment (Gauges and hoses set up for testing the high and low sides of the compressor) you'll need,. It usually comes as a kit for a little less than $100.00. Plus, 3 cans of R134a refrigerant. You'll probably only need 2, but having an extra one is safer. When you get back home, use the Owner's Manual for the AC unit, to determine what the pressure should be on the high and low sides of the compressor, as well as the where the refrigerant ports on the compressor are.

I hope all this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

It all depends up on whats the brand and model number on the commercial AC system.Some are high capacity and some are low capacity, commercial AC system.--------- If the less refrigerant will be added then it will not cool properly, if over refrigerant is added then it will spoil the compressor .So all depends up on its exact model and brand.--------- Basically all the details should be mentioned on the AC system.There is a sticker on its left or right or front or back.On that all details should be mentioned.--------------- ----------------- This is example of what it writes on the sticker.--------- HCFC-22 3lbs. 14oz. or 1.76 kg ------------ Mostly its written in this type.-------This means that this system uses R22 Freon (HydroChloroFluoroCarbon) and this unit takes three pounds and 14 ounces of Freon or its equivalent weight of 1.76 kilograms. --------- So you have to just locate the sticker on the AC system.And this will help, you to confirm, how much refrigerant it actually takes. --------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

If you have a set of gages all you have to do is hook up to the ports. Blue gage / line to the large tube. Red gage / line to the small tube. Hook up ports are usually right at the bottom of the unit where the tubes connect to the unit. On some, the ports are inside the unit in which case you have to remove the access panel in that location. First, clean the outside coil, you can use a water hose with not to much pressure and wash out any leaves, dirt, old grass clippings. Wash out the coil fins and pay attn. to the bottom area. The best way, to make sure your unit is full of freon, is to check the temp of the large line at the unit (while it is running w/ max load across inside coil) and check the saturated refrigerant pressure, looking for a differential of 15 to 20 dges. OR With a clean coil, running with about 225 psi on the red gage, you will want about 65 to 70 psi on the blue. These numbers are just for referencing only.You really need to check the temp. of the suction line and using a saturated R22 pressure to temp. chart. (found at any local refrigerant supply house) adjust pressures and temps until a desired temp. is achieved (15 - 20 ) called super heat at the compressor suction line. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

It should have a tiny rubber hose that you drain Water from the unit into a bucket