Whirlwind Heating & Cooling - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The drain line coming from the internal drain pan to the pump is clogged, causing overflow of the internal pan. That means the water never reaches the pump, and is simply overflowing into the bottom of the unit/duct.

The drain line and pan need to be cleaned and cleared.

A shop vac is a wonderful tool for such a job.

Call and ck ith Walts RV in Fontana if you are in This area. They may have one. They know the RV parts business real well.

Sounds like the blower transistor is bad. Here's a link to the service bulletin. http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-048.PDF

Try cleaning the coils with a wire brush and soapy water.

If it is low in freon then recharging is the solution. Hot air blowing can be due to, as you have said, low freon, dirty condenser fins or blocked filter drier. Make sure condenser is clean. Use brush to loosen the lints and dusts then flush it with a pressure washer. Blocked filter drier must be replaced and so with the freon. You will know it when frost appear on one side of the filter.

The only problem I could think of is that the air conditioning needs to be recharged as they call it because over time it will run out. You can usually go to a place like Firestone and they will do it (depending on how much you need) for around 100 or you can find a way to do it yourself you would buy either R134A or Freeze 12 that might be harder to get but cheaper

Just google "Midea parts" to order online

http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.618686/sc.2/category.12/.f

yes, that should be more than enough time though. with 410 make sure you charge it with luiquid because it is a blend and also blow nitrogen though line set when brazing very delicate. you will have problems if not done right. also you want a suction of 125

All central A/C units have a condensate drain line that comes from just under the evaporator in the Main air supply plenum.

You may have a blockage in that drain line and will have to remove the pipe to clear the obstruction. Try flushing the drain pipe with warm water until it flows easily from the top to the end.

You might have a gravity drain that goes into a floor drain or a french drain along the basement walls. The other typical drain installation is a condensate pump that the water drains into and when the float in the tank is lifted, a small pump turns on and pumps the water (condensate) out of the house either thru a drain hose thru the wall, or into a drain in the basement, etc.

Check the entire drain line and anything connected to it for any possible obstructions and/or blockage.

If you have any other questions once you take a look at your installation, just add a comment and I'll check back within a day to provide more info, based on your input.

I hope you found this very helpful and best regards!

You may need to pull the unit and wash it thoroughly. 9 times out of 10 that corrects that type of problem.

I'm not sure of the answer but here is a website you can download, in pdf, the manual.

http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.618686/sc.10/category.71/.f

no it should not pose a problem, it is permissable, (actually desireable) to have a larger indoor coil than the outdoor unit.

You probably hit the nail on the head. You are currently getting 36 degrees difference in temp. That's pretty darn good. Most units would struggle with that. Running all the time is usually an indication that the unit could be somewhat undersized too. 74 degrees is not that bad under those conditions.

where are you located,i'm in wisconsin and do A/C repair,and is it warrantied yet???

Hopefully it is something as simple as your thermostat is just set to fan "on". If it is, set it to auto.

Is the outside unit running? if so can you feel warmer than outside air blowing from outside fan? If not your system may have a leak and pressures low. You can also check the piping to and from the unit larger one should be cold small one should be warm

It sounds like you have your gages hooked up wrong. Blue goes to the Suction line (the big line) it should be cold when the units running.
Red goes to the liquid line (the little line).

These valves do get stuck. They energize for cool and in the dead postion they heat. Your valve is stuck or not energized. Can you here it click or try to energize. If you dont hee the click you do not have voltage to the valve. The valve is powered thru the defrost board. So that might be your problem. If you have voltmeter. Take the two wires off the valve and turnit on cool you should get 24 volts. If you have 24 volts the valve is bad. If you do have voltage to the valve tap the valve while energized and sometimes this will loosen them up. If the board or valve is bad you will have to call a service tech. Russ There is only so much you can do.