Whirlpool Dishwashers - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

possible bad o ring to arm or weak pump

if power inside past cord blown fuse or power supply bad or shorted heater element

bad control board

pls do let me know if you need further help on this

The latch may be misaligned, damaged or defective.

This could be sudden failure of the cycle timer or some element controlled by the timer such as the pump.

without seeing it nobody can answer this

You have a clean light flashing. You need to reset you control. It is activated by a number of different situations. Find the tech sheet for your dishwasher which is normally located under the bottom plate of the dishwasher. If you can not find it give me the model number and I will tell you how to activate the diagnostic test. If you do find it follow the section that says diagnostic test. Then check and makes sure you heater element is operating.

There is always the possibility that the replacement heating element is defective.

The powdery residue is likely limescale, although I have worked in some catering kitchens where it was a used by a block-type detergent. Descale it with a product like CLR or white vinegar or follow the manufacturers instructions. In hard water areas you may need a product like Calgon in every wash. Instructions and salt filling https://legacy.docs.whirlpool.eu/_doc/501939694108GB.pdf ..

A lot of dishwashers that fail completely (no power at all but with water in the bottom) fail because of a blown up power switcher chip on and/or smoothing resistor on the power supply section of the main controller board. Usually these components blow as the heater kicks in to heat the water as this is the point of highest current draw. I would unplug the machine and locate the main controller board, disconnect all the cables from it and open it up (take care to wear gloves and not touch any capacitors or sensitive components) inspect the board for blown chips, and burned cracked resistors, or domed/bulging capacitors as these three are the main culprits. If the switcher chip has gone, it is usually starts with LNK___ or TNY___ and the main resistors are usually around 100ohm 3watt 5% tolerance (brown black brown gold) some have a 5th whitish/yellow band on one end that denotes it has a safety fuse built in.... But this isn't something I would consider vital. You can always add a fuse in series with the resistor if you REALLY want to!
I have added photos of a common controller board's big resistor and switcher chip (both after being replaced) for reference to what I was explaining above. This switcher was a TNY264GN that had cracked and blown up along with the resistor.

Could be a few things and for all, you need a service engineer to diagnose and replace. Please don't leave it clicking for hours. Logic board. relays. pump start capacitor. pump failed.

I had this issue with a Whirlpool Dishwasher. I could move the water float valve up and down, and the machine would run a cycle before acting up again. I ran a dishwasher cleaner through it (The one from Finish) and they problem went away! I have always ran the Afresh dishwasher cleaner, but I guess it is not as good as Finish! Conclusion, if you can get it to run a cycle, then try using the Finish Dishwasher cleaner, and see if problem disappears.

It is always helpful to list the model number. Here are some generic fixes: https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Dishwashers/Product_Info/Dishwasher_Product_Assistance/Dishwasher_Not_Starting_or_Not_Operating https://housemethod.com/maintenance/dishwasher-wont-start/ You might check YouTube if the problem is narrowed to a fuse replacement for the whirlpool dishwasher. There is a $15 repair there.

REPAIR PEOPLE NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING , WE TEST IT

1. Defective valve 2. Incorrect installation

Could be a faulty cycle timer

Request the manual from Whirlpool.

Could be a defective cycle timer, rather than the pump

either full water sensor bad or water solenoid stuck open