Weil-McLain Heating & Cooling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Bleed air out of system

If the damper is buzzing i may be that the moex plug is not properly engaged at the plug and there is sone current loss through the low voltage wiring. If it is a field controls damper it is not uncommon for it to buzz when the plug is connected but ajar. Some times the buzzing is coming from a loose sheet metal screw that is vibrating when the damper is opening or if there are not at least three screws in every section of the smoke pipe if it is a single wall pipe, if you have B vent pipe check to be sure that the sections are connected securely. (they should be @ about 60 degrees apart between screws) and that could cause some buzzing when the damper is opening or closing. As far as leaving it manually open you will loose heat up the chimney but the boiler will still operate with the damper manually open just not as fuel efficiently. Also check the jacket screws and draft hood screws sometimes they can drive you nuts over a loose screw. It also could be that the motor is on the way out and you would have to replace it. http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/assets/pdf/550142779_1212_CGaBoilerManual.pdf Here is a link to the PDF file for that model page 48 will give you some information about the damper. The boiler will not fire if the damper doesn't open (if it does fire with the damper closed shut it down and call a professional) if you want to check for loose screws it may help you out some. But you may leave it manually open all the time in the short term if it does fail but don't leave it open too long or your gas bill will start to pick your pocket. Good luck I hope it was some help and look over the link to the equipment it may be helpfull

Joanne If there is a standing pilot on the boiler. Put the gas valve to the pilot setting and push in on the valve while holding a long match or BBQ lighter @ the pilot assembly that is behind the small access port at the top of the gas train assembly. Dont hold the pilot knob doun without having a flane @ the gas outlet of the pilot assembly or gas will build up and could blow out of the port and hold the gas valve in for about a minute or two and let it go it should stay light when you let it go .If it does not sta lit and it IS a standing pilot there- is a thermo-coupling that may be bad If the pilot does not stay lit. If there is an electronic ignition rather than a standing pilot then you do not need to light it will light itself if the electronic ignition is bad or if the flame sensor is dirty. If you remove the pilot assembly from the gas train and clean the flame sensor rod with a piece of .0000 steel wool it could help. If not you may want to call a licensed pipe-pitter ( OR plumber depending where you live and the local codes). If you don't thing you could do it yourself then call a licensed pipi-fitter or plumber. (Gas only has to leak once for there to be a problem so please do call someone licensed if you don't think you could do it your self.), http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/weil-mclain/products-services/ Here is a link to the manufacturer you should be ale to fing your equipment and the install instructions, if you look around .You can download a PDF and print it Good luck and stay warm

Check the circulating pump.

This link may be helpful. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=jGWnVJOzNYGAgwTg1YGABw&url=http://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DQaM_3zJ3Qz8&ved=0CBwQtwIwAA&usg=AFQjCNHXBQGe1PCnkjrIg-dh5lS8m_dBAQ&sig2=KmfqgOrua5TNOVaAY16_ng Bob

If it blinks like a heartbeat, it's normal. If there's a series of blinks and a pause you need to contact the manufacturer to read the code.

Most likely cracked core.Has low water cut off alarm and auto make up feed been on?Have you been manually adding water?

First step is to bleed all air from the system. Add more manual vents and have at least one automatic air vent if necessary to properly bleed. An air filled compression tank without a bladder makes it difficult to control air in the system; system pressure is difficult to control. An air tank without bladder is more common in older systems. Replacing an air compression tank with a pre-charged bladder tank can be a great benefit in maintaining system pressure. If a bladder tank is already in place it may have a leak after many years of use. If the problem persists, then check the bladder to see if it has a leak. This may not be easily done during system operation and requires removal. Tanks come in various sizes; get a larger rather than smaller tank. A great help in the long run and will pay for itself in service calls quickly.

Need to know what pressure steam you are running, and what your water feed pressure is & temperature. If you are using a deaerator with pumps to supply feed pressure, and if there is a stack economizer. @ your altitude, I would de-rate your gas output to 10% less than your rated BTU's. Also need to know the % of oxygen in your flue gas, and if the gas & air intake is staged or modulating.

1. If there is no water on the floor, your crack is probably OK so far. The water thing is a worry though. NEVER fire a boiler that is low on water. Adding water to a hot boiler will crack it. Tell me all you can on what components you have in the water and gas lines.

When is the last time you had it serviced By a Tech?

Not good at all. Check for a fill level probe/float/sensor that may be acting up causing the unit to over fill, or you may be looking at buying a new boiler.

Question edited for clarity, full 'make model (what it is)'. Email address removed. You don't need the site's 12 million annual viewers emailing you to say they can fix it for a thousand bucks! Finally, Please don't type in all CAPS, it is considered SHOUTING and is harder to read. Repair Clinic has some good ideas, but your model is discontinued

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Here are the steps you might want to follow: Setting the Draining Cycle Times (Dump Interval): This setting controls how often the unit dumps the water. You can adjust this setting to reduce the frequency of water dumping. Setting the Drain off Delay Time (Dump Delay): This setting controls the delay time before the unit starts to dump the water after it has been turned off. If adjusting these settings doesn't work, there could be other issues with your unit. For example, a continuous water dumping problem could be due to a faulty dump valve or a problem with the float valve.

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Why do you need to dismantle this? Some of these types of cooler do not have replaceable parts inside. They are usually classed as a "Throw away" machine. It is often easier and cheaper to replace it than repair it.