When put on the machine, it gives a fault code:
4F7A11 unknown fault
error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete r efurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered
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Gears shifting
It sounds like you are having problems with the syncronizers, that is what makes the shift smooth and positive feeling.
NSN For a Valve Ball
You need to tell us what the diameter of the lines are, and what will flow through the valve? It is gasoline, water, natural gas, etc?
How to remove overhead console from 2007 town & country van
Have you checked/replaced the fuses? A recent experience with suddenly non-functioning turn signals. Found it to be a fuse I didn't check because I didn't see how it related to the turn signals. Took it to shop and lo and behold, 65.00 later it's this fuse labelled "meter." It appears to control the dash lights and turn signals. From experience with those Chrysler Vans, there will be 2 fuse boxes. One uses the larger fuses and the other uses the mini-fuses. I'd check those before the drastic step of tearing my interior apart. In fact, if it's just the map lights involved, I'd carry a flashlight and not worry about map lights period.
Heat stopped working
There are several possible reasons as to why you are not getting any heat in your vehicle. 1) Low coolant level; check coolant level in radiator/reservoir to make sure that it is within operating range (check with engine cold). 2) Improperly operating thermostat. If your thermostat is stuck in the open position, the engine will not reach operating temperature and the engine coolant will provide little or no heat to the car heater. Check your coolant temperature gauge on the dash to make sure that it is the normal operating range. The thermostat will need replacing if the engine temperature is still in the low range after 10 minutes, or so, of running. 3) Plugged heater core. After engine has warmed up, place your hands on the two smaller coolant hoses that lead into the firewall/heater. Both hoses should be hot (the inlet slightly hotter than the outlet) If one hose is hot and the other is only warm or cold, than the heater core is likely plugged. I would recommend a cooling system flush in this case. 4) The heater control valve is not open. The heater control valve is a valve located in one of the smaller coolant hoses leading to the firewall/heater core. It is usually cable operated, but may also be operated by a vacuum motor. Make sure valve is moving when the temperature lever or knob on your instrument panel is moved from cold to hot. If it does not move, and it is cable actuated, ensure that cable is connected to the valve arm and dash control lever. If it is vacuum controlled check small vacuum hose for kinks and leaks. Remove vacuum hose from valve and check for vacuum when heater control is moved from cold to hot. If vacuum is not present, there is a problem with the heater control (possibly a vacuum leak under the instrument panel or at the temperature control).
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