Vornado Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Most fans like this use a fairly standard electric motor as it has to run from the mains supply. Take it to a good electric motor repairer/supplier and they should be able to find an after market motor to replace the one you have. Keep in mind how much the fan is worth to compare the cost of repair versus replacement.

Hello Johnsbrandt - I had the exact problem. As you note, the four slits are they key. They are tabs that hold the outer ring in place. Press them so that they no longer catch on the back ring, and you should be able to slide the outer ring right off. The outer ring on mine was somehow catching on the blade, plus it was dirty, so it was good to get this off. Hope this helps! Lance

The company says it never needs oiling and is sealed for life. You could try them direct, or Amazon sells bearings if you can get the size.https://www.google.com/search?q=replacement+bearings+for+a+vornado+293..

See page 2 of the Manual. Take them up on their claim and get a warranty repair or at least some help direct. https://www.vornado.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/AWRH.pdf If you can get into it, you can clean and oil the bearings. ...

Contact them direct and put in a warranty claim or ask for spares. https://www.vornado.com/contact-us https://www.google.com/search?q=Vornado+280LS+fan+speed+control+switch ..

Question edited for clarity, order of words. Check the fan for continuity with a multimeter. There are additional ideas here including the thermal cut out. https://www.google.com/search?q=Vornado+VH2+Whole+Room+Space+Heater%2C+fan+not+working ..

There are three clips the hold the grill to the cowl.
One clip at 11 o'clock, one at 2 o'clock and one at 6 o'clock.
Use a flat blade screw driver to push the 11 and 2 positions down (do 11 then do 2) and the grill shold come off.
I can send pic if needed.
cawicks at g mail . com

There are a couple of videos that might help, but usually, it is just a matter of undoing every screw that you can find. The videos show the switch just levers out. It is held by plastic clips. To split the case, you just need a long Philips screwdriver. 4 screws hold it. https://www.google.com/search?q=Vornado+VH200+replace+switch

VH200 Whole Room Heater - Vornado

https://www.vornado.com > shop > heaters > vh200-wh... The VH200 whole room heater is an effective way to reduce energy costs. This whole room heater has a thermostatic temperature control knob.

I found this switch for a Vornado VH2 which seems similar, and you can order one at a time https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/RR111C1000-116/EG4773-ND/2116252?itemSeq=386011899Edit/Update: Jan 3, 2022I ordered 2 replacement switches for $8.58 incl taxes+ shipping and today I received the replacement switch pictured below (on the left), together with the original (on the right), the only difference being that the replacement does not have the I / O markings.Relatively easy to remove and install, and now my fan is working again.

A motor rewinding shop could probably fix it or have a replacement motor. A replacement motor may be cheaper than to repair.

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Yes Pat It is an easy job that can be done in 30 minutes or so. At Home Depot, you can buy wire with the plug attached or you can buy wire and a plug separately. I can tell you where places will fix it in Toronto, Canada, but do you live in Toronto? This link will take you to someone near you, or you can just drop into a local vacuum seller and repairer. That was where I went for something or other. I just said to the guy, "can you put a new lead on this"? He looked at it and said "sure it will be ready in 2 days". https://www.google.com/search?q=local+appliance+repair ..

The fan motor has failed.

Copied this from someone else who fixed his fan. Tried it and it made a world of difference. Spins free and easy, no more noise."I have had the same model for almost ten years, and have had to lubricate it twice - both times when the fan stopped rotating. It's obvious that Vornado never intended the bearings to be serviced, but if you're patient, it can be done. You must remove the front louver section (press the three clips inward gently). Then firmly pull the fan toward the front, off the shaft. Then remove the four nuts on the front of the motor housing - you'll note that the bolts appear to be free-floating, but that allows re-assembly after the bearings are lubricated. When the nuts are removed, firmly pull the front of the motor housing toward you. This may require a firm pull or GENTLE prying, as the rear bearing sometimes doesn't want to let go. When you have the front portion of the housing and shaft out, hold the housing and pull the shaft out of the front bearing. Again, this may require a steady firm pull straight back. When the rotor & shaft are free, you'll need some very fine emery paper to remove the varnish that's built up on the shaft (it's unmistakable where to clean the shaft.) And I never attempt to do anything with the front and rear bearing themselves - too much work, and cleaning the shaft does the job for me. Then clean everything up carefully and lubricate the shaft where it enters the bearings (and maybe a drop in the rear bearing itself.) I use a very fine machine oil that I bought at Sears, but I think any good oil would work. Then, it's re-assembly time - shaft into front bearing, shaft into rear bearing as the motor housing is put back together (lining up the bolts), four nuts on the bolts & tighten (firmly, no gorilla), press fan back on shaft (don't force it too far on - it'll stop when it's in the right place), plug in and check, re-attach front louver (just press - the clips will snap easily into place.)"

Dust on the inside of the unit can cause the overload switch to shut many vornados down. Blowing the dust out of the unit with compressed air or a blower may help.

Another problem that causes vornados to stop working (light on - no heat no fan) is when one of the bearings starts to go bad in the unit. This causes the fan to be slower and less effective and the unit’s inability to move the heat away from the thermal overload switch again causes it to shut down.

Though you could remove the front and rear bearings and try to get replacements if it's even replaceable ... Once the bearing starts to go bad there is little that can be done ... HOWEVER, here is one solution to get more life out of the unit.

First, use a blower to blow all the dust out of the unit.
Then, because it is typically the front bearing that goes bad first, lay the vornado on it’s back (so the unit would be blowing air up toward the ceiling), this will relieve the front bearing somewhat and rely more on the rear bearing which tends to last longer.

The vornados I’ve had are all thermistor units ... that is, they don’t just turn on and off when the set temp is reached but in fact slow themselves down (both heat and fan) to keep some level of air circulation in the room. This is a good thing by the way.
There are usually two toggle switches .... one is a heat switch - usually Low & High .... the other is the thermistor switch (this sometimes is labeled “fan”) - usually Auto & High.

Once the unit is on its back ... Now, change the settings as follows:
Turn the Heat switch to LOW
Turn the Fan switch to HIGH
Turn the dial (with the temperature in degrees on it) to the lowest setting - which is somewhere around 60’ish.

Now turn the unit on and it should stay working.
Three things that could cause it to turn back off ...
You turn the Fan switch back to Auto.
You turn the Heat switch back to High
You turn the temperature selection dial too high ... though, you can cautiously turn the dial up a few degrees at a time ... the unit will start shutting down again when you set the temp too high ... then just dial it back down ... unplug for a couple minutes, then turn back on.

I have a Lennox furnace that starts but won't ignite.
Turn up the thermostat, you can hear it start but the burners don't come on

Our Model 633 has both screws and clips. I first undid the screws at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions on the back of the grill, then used a flat blade screwdriver to open the clips at 10 and 2 o'clock positions. Then it came apart pretty easily. On this mode there are also clips at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, but they let go once you pull the top apart.

You cannot with the clips... its impossible.. wound up breaking the clips... and STILL cannot get grill off. Don't ever by a Vornado if you cannot clean it!

I am not familiar with the model you are struggling with and it would be difficult to help you without a few more and better quality pictures. The picture you supplied features the motor and I think what is the (black with white printing) capacitor can almost be seen to the left with a blue and a white wire that might or might not be connected to it. I suspect you used your phone to take the picture as there isn't enough pixels to expand it to a useful size without losing detail. The capacitor is probably a radio interference suppressor and in that case would be simply connected across the supply. It is possible the "capacitor" is an interference filter and in that case the connections would be marked on the unit.