Horn fixing
you will have to trace the wires back and with the aid os a multimeter find where the fault is.
I need jetting spes for
Hey there =)This is the standard setting for the FCR 39 MX:Max. Jet: 178Min. Jet: 42Start. Jet: 85Idle Screw : 1+1/2 outNoozle Needle : 0,35TPS Volt.: 0,5 V - 0,68 VJet Needle: OBDTMJet Needle Clip: Pos. 3 (middle)Greetz =) Kitley
I have just picked up my vor vmx 450 01?02 and
check the oil level, maybe it is way above the maximum level, have the bike on a stand and proper level, remove the dipstick, wipe with cloth, dip again to check level; if it is beyond maximum level, drain to the correct amount, if you hate oil, dirt and grease on your hands, have your mechanic do it, hope this helps ;-)
Vor 450 hp
probably in the 45 - 50hp sometimes a little more depending on the model
Where can i get a engine from please?
Just Google " motorcycle salvage australia ". Ther are six or seven motorcycle salvage yards down under.
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Bike runs fine then stalls when ya try starting
If you have a voltage tester you will probably find a low reading on your battery. It takes a big powerful battery in excellent condition to start that monster, that's why it starts right away when you jump it...Good Luck to you !...Tim
Dead Alternator?
Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator.
Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.
T-clocs
tires, control, lights, oil, chassis, stands
Suspension - winter storage
If your motorcycle has a center stand, use it for long term storage.
If you're not riding for several weeks and don't have a center stand, you may want to consider carefully propping up the bike using blocks. Don't do more harm than good by dropping your bike while attempting to prop it up! If done correctly, lifting your motorcycle will alleviate stress on the suspension and tires.
Inflate your tires to the maximum recommended pressure will maintain their shape, since cooling temperatures will make the pressurized air contract. If the ground might potentially freeze, try to keep the tires off the ground using wood blocks.
Hot Exhaust
The most likely cause is that the motor is running very lean. Make sure that all of the componets for the air intake system are connected and not leaking. This can happen if you have changed to one of the new high flow air cleaners like K&N. This causes the air/fuel mixture to have too much air and not enough fuel (lean). If you can adjust the carb, then make it richer.
Bike look maintance
ProClean is good stuff, but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race, it's too expensive in my opinion.
I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR, which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol.
Cam timing
In our perennial quest for HP and torque, the topic of cam timing seems to be missing from the threads thus far posted. Yet, cam timing can have a significant effect on overall engine performance and the mix between HP and torque.
Since the HM has only a single cam per cylinder, there isn’t anything we can due to vary the overlap for any given cam, but there is certainly some range of adjustability on how the overall cam timing is set by cylinder.
With the stock cams, the timing specs for both cylinders are as follows at 1 mm valve clearance
Intake
Opening 15° B.T.D.C.
Closing 65° A.B.D.C.
Exhaust
Opening 62° B.B.D.C.
Closing 19° A.T.D.C.
(Anyone have the specs of for the DP cams?)
Certainly degreeing in the cams to spec is a good starting point, but my real question is how might HP and torque be impacted by advancing or retarding cam timing?
There’s lots of information on how to degree a cam and people have been doing so since the old flat-head hot rod days, but information on how changing cam timing in and by itself affects overall performance and/or the mix between HP and torque (perhaps held as closely guarded trade secrets by the cam manufacturers +/or tuners).
How to check oil on my bike
There are usually two methods to check the oil. One is a dipstick and the other is a sight-glass. You should have one or the other somewhere on the side of the engine crankcase. It should be fairly obvious and not require the removal of any body panels. If you can't find a dipstick in the side of the crankcase you will need to get down on your hands and knees and have a look for a sight-glass instead. This will be like a tiny window with a gauge against which you can check the level.
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