With a small screw driver and a steady hand. Set the knob to the temp u want then pull knob off. Inside the stem there is a little screw. Try and regulate it slowly also allow it enough time to reach the desired temp. Good luck.
Question edited for clarity.
The whole idea of Self Clean feature is to keep the makers into steady sales of spare parts. The components can only tolerate those temperatures for a number of cycles before elements, door locks and control boards start failing. Consumers don't realize the heat involved!
between 800°F and 900°F
Self-cleaning ovens bring the heat so you don't have to spend hours scrubbing. Traditional self-cleaning cycles heat the oven between 800°F and 900°F, helping turn soil and spills to a powdery ash you can then wipe away. They utilize only heat-no chemicals-and are built to withstand high temperatures. (except they aren't)
Either the door lock has failed or the control board has failed.
https://www.justanswer.com/appliance/6r72n-own-viking-dual-fuel-vdsc530-range-oven-will-not.html
Viking discontinued manufacturing and support for this unit quite a while ago. Most people just replace them as parts are no where to be found.
Geeeer!
It sounds like the pilot light has gone out. The thermocouple might have failed. It is a gas appliance so you will need a gas certified technician.
Google
Viking (model) manual
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It sounds like there may be an issue with the fan or the control board in your Viking refrigerator. The constant running of the fan, even when the compressor is not running, is not normal. The fact that different repair technicians have given different diagnosis and the issue persist even after replacing the compressor fan motor, suggest that it may be a problem with the control board, which manages the refrigeration system, including the fan. It could also be a problem with the thermostat, or the system's settings. Since the fridge and freezer seem to be at normal temperatures, it may not be a problem with the cooling system. It's best to contact Viking customer service for further assistance and see if they can provide any additional information or troubleshooting steps. If the issue persist, it's best to ask for a senior technician or supervisor to take a look at it and provide a resolution.
Safety First: Before you begin, unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet to ensure your safety.
Locate the Ice Maker: The ice maker is typically located in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. It's usually mounted to the side or top of the freezer.
Access the Ice Maker:
In some refrigerator models, you may need to remove the freezer's interior shelves or baskets to access the ice maker.
Others may have a cover or panel that needs to be removed to access the ice maker assembly.
Identify the Signal Arm: The signal arm is a slender, plastic or metal arm that is connected to the ice maker assembly. It extends over the ice bin or tray.
Remove the Old Signal Arm:
If the signal arm is attached with a screw, use a screwdriver to remove it.
If the signal arm is connected with a clip or latch, gently detach it by carefully pulling it off the pivot point. Some signal arms may have a small locking tab that needs to be released first.
Check the door gasket for torn or broken attachment tabs. Gently go all the way around the door gasket, wiggling it to see if any part of it pulls out of place. If you find a build-up of dirt, mold, etc,. clean that off. If there is mold present, clean it with a borax solution. Also check the door frame on the refrigerator shell where the gasket is supposed to seal. If you see one area that is particularly dirty or signs of frequent condensation, double check the corresponding part of the gasket for defects.
I'm hypothesizing that a broken section of the gasket sometimes rolls or moves sideways, thus preventing proper sealing.
I have also had problems with the door staying closed if something in the freezer or refrigerator sticks out just enough to put outward pressure on the door (or a similar protrusion of items in the door racks). In that case, re-arrangement of the freezer contents should fix it.
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Are you sure it's a good idea to do everything yourself? I don't think you should do that because you can easily connect the wires the wrong way, and I don't even want to think what can happen in that case.
Most likely, you need to update the HASP key driver for the dongle. Try accessing the updates here: https://www.premierplusembroidery.com/en/Support/Software-Help . Scroll down to the Windows HASP Dongle drivers link and click on it. You should be able to download the update (HASPUserSetup.exe).
You do need to be a registered user to access other 5D Embroidery software updates.
If that doesn't work, try the Sentinel driver site: Knowledge Article View - Thales Customer Support (thalesgroup.com) . Go to the section with Sentinel HL, LDK, and HASP drivers and narrow the list to Windows drivers. Download the Sentinel HASP/LDK Windows GUI runtime installer. You will need to extract the executable file from the compressed .zip file. Make sure that the 5D software installer is closed. Then run the file. This is the driver for other sewing machine embroidery software dongles. Since the major brands are owned by the same parent, they use the same software.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
