Vertemati Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

there is no second battery , the magneto is producing the power for your bike once is kicked over .

This switch may or may not be on the trans. It may also be integrated with the neutral safety switch.. Look at the bottom of the steering column also....and look at the shifter input shaft area of the trans.

If the engine will not turn over (from the images I just looked at it should be a kick start?).

1. Remove the spark plug and try turning the engine over
2. Squirt some penetrating oil in the cylinder - let it sit for a few hours or overnight and try again.
3. If it still will not turn over you are looking at either a jammed valve train with a possible broken / damaged camshaft chain or a frozen piston (Very very bad) but not a total loss - it can be salvaged but only with a lot of work

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/vertemati_e_450_enduro_2004.php

It doesn't say anything about where it is located, but I would guess it is in Italy.

get a new battery, sounds like

Try this out. This link should help.
Side Strider Inc
Phone 818 780 5542

15838 Arminta Street
Unit 25, Van Nuys
California 91406

Please rate this answer. Thanks Kenneth!

To change your oil filter, remove oil drain plug, drain oil into an oil pan, clean and replace oil drain plug, then remove oil filter, pour a drop of clean oil onto a new oil filter, and lube gasket, then replace the old oil filter with the new oil filter. Finally, add clean oil to the motorcycle until the oil level window shows oil in the middle of the viewing window when the bike is upright.

Yes, it could (and probably is) be an air leak. Check to be sure the carb is tight in the intake manifold, and make sure the hot-start isn't loose and is sealing properly. Also make sure all of the exhaust system joints are tight, an air leak in the exhaust will make a four-stroke pop and backfire like an old work truck with no muffler...

The two most important aspects of four-stroke maintenance are frequent oil/filter changes, and regular valve clearance checks/adjustments. And some four-strokes (RMZ450 for example) have a manual timing chain tensioner that must be regularly checked/adjusted. Everything else is exactly like a two-stroke.

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it , it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike , some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike , not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out.

minimum 125 psi (time for a top end then) ... proper pressure after 5 kicks should be in the 175-190 psi range on fresh top end for that bike.make sure to either push the kill button or ground the plug to the engine while kicking it over, or you could damage your CDI unit.

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug, IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand, allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement.

If it's liquid cooled, then that grey smoke is more than likely steam ( the head gasket is on it's way out). If it was burning oil, you would able to smell it.

That's normal and nothing to worry about. The clutch is a wet multiplate design (it runs in the engine oil) and has a little drag to it when the oil cold.

Yes, All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings, and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil, and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.

Maybe someone put a spud up yer exhaust pipe -] Seriously though, could be the fuel pump on it's way out? Does it do it an all of the three maps? But from what you say it sounds like fuel, also check fuel lines aren't kinked, Check the tank breather is breathing ect ect

Piston seizures are due to lack of lubrication and/or a way too lean mixture - incorrect ignition timing, unless it is a mechanical failure of the rings, bearings or rod. Just like a car engine, there should be a thermostat in the cooling system, so that the engine can warm up quickly and maintain an even engine temperature. If the crank and rod is still okay, then check the mating surfaces of the crankcase to cylinder and cylinder to cylinder head. Be sure that the cooling system is clean and that the water pump is working okay. Bleed all the air out of the cooling system before you start the motor again. 2 strokes get all kinds of mods done to them, so it is hard to determine what the correct jetting should be unless the entire intake, exhaust and port timing are all OEM standard. Go with a richer jet and some non-synthetic oil in somewhat heavier ratios, to help break in the new parts. Adding more oil actually can cause the jetting to lean down, due to added weight of the fluid mixture slowing the flow through the jets. There are several Honda Elsinore MX websites out there to help guide you through the setup process, once the type and make of parts are known. Each manufacturer of exhaust and intake systems will have different setup suggestions. Always warm the engines up slowly, until the cooling system is circulating properly. Inspect the carburetor for any kinds of debris or contamination that could cause lean running and verify ignition timing specs. Intake manifolding and/or reed valves need to be checked carefully for air leaks/damage. If the bike was run HOT with failing cooling system, the damage to the crankshaft rod may not be visually apparent, so a crank rebuild may be in order, so you know that the bearings are not damaged. Considering that there was coolant in the crankcase, a crank rebuild really is a necessity, as old coolant will etch and damage ball and needle bearings, as well as the crankpin and rod end. If gasket failure isn't apparent, then you may have to have the cylinder and head pressure checked to identify any hairline cracks that may open up under heat and pressure. Use OEM Honda gaskets to prevent material failures, which can occur with after-market parts.

Hey Dave. If you look at your tires, between the treads there are little raised tread wear indicators. When the tread wears down far enough to make those indicators touch the road it is about time. The exception this is the Metzler Z6, the tread wear indicators are really tough to find on those. You will find that mileage will vary greatly. I seem to get about 3000 miles out of Sport tires and was only getting abut 4000 or so out of sport touring tires. Some guys here seem to get double that or more. I think that mileage will be dictated by terrain you ride, the pavement type (very course here) and your right hand.

I would pull the plug to make sure its not fouled. If it is then replace it with a new one. Then try starting it. As far as choke operation, pull the choke out, start the bike let i idle for a minute or two, push the choke back in and continue to warm up the motor.

i always just put some on the o-ring before i put it back in but no, you dont need to have oil on it