U-Line Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to a better category.. The Thermistor has failed or is failing. It is the temperature sensor that is basically your electronic thermostat. Troubleshooting Guide: U-Line Refrigerator Error Codes U-Line refrigerator troubleshooting begins with cracking the codes. Let's take a look at U-Line brand error codes.

Error Code ER

Diagnosis: Thermistor 1 is open Explanation: The U-Line refrigerator error code ER is alerting you to a failed thermistor. Thermistors are used for various temperature readings. These provide reliable temperature readings using a resistance which varies based on surrounding temperatures. If you have a U-Line wine cooler, for example, it will include ambient temperature surrounding the refrigerator unit. If the thermistor 1 fails, the refrigerator will continue to operate on a preset 10 minutes on and 30 minutes off time interval. Solution: Use an accurate ohm meter to test the thermistor. If the thermistor is defective, have it replaced. https://www.google.com/search?q=uline+u-2115wcs+thermistor ..

The fact that the compressor is two years old does not mean it cannot break down again, give more details on the problem to troubleshoot further

Hello, I followed your instructions, hold the up arrow and at the same time press and release the light bulb 3 times and then up arrow to 3, got the Er codes E3 and E5, now I'm trying to do the last step to go back to refrigeration cycle and it doesn't work. Help?

Sorry for the delay in responding...

Most models have the valve located at the back of the machine on the lower left hand side(viewed from the front). You may have to remove the entire back cover via the hex head screws to get at it. (some models have the valve located behind the front toe kick panel.)

First follow the waterline to determine the location of the valve within the fridge. If it is at the front then the toekick panel will have to be removed. If there are no visible screws then it is most likely a clip on style. If there is a knob for temperature setting then the knob may have to be pulled off first.
If there is a smaller cardboard panel at the bottom rear of the fridge remove it and you should see the valve. If not then remove the entire back cover by removing the screws along the rear perimeter of the fridge. The panel may stick to the back of the fridge but gently pull and it will remove. The valve should now be seen and can be disconnected.

Be sure to unplug the machine first and turn off the water supply. There will still be some pressure in the waterline so have a towel ready.

The valve itself is available online, I think the correct one is located at: http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=832567&PPStack=1

Just be sure to verify that it is the right one before ordering.

Check with your local appliance repair shop. They may have what you need out back or know where you find the part you need. They might even have after market parts cheaper.

I would think it would matter if board isn’t same as old one.

Put it in the off position. Turn the knob to the right. If the refrigerator comes on then continue to turn the knob to the right until you get to the temperature you want.The more you turn to then right colder it should be. Turning it back makes it warmer.

Use a good level and ensure that the unit is not tilted forward, it should be tilted to the rear slightly. The side to side should be level.

Since you did not mention what make it is . Its usually dirt in your door seal causing your refridgirator to understand its not closed since its not sealing properly . clean the door seals and try . Or there is a technical glitch in electrical system and you need a repairman . Also there is usually a way to disable the alarm and you need to check your user manual for that to disable it ill its fixed

Sounds like you did everything right

1.800.779.2547 u-line

sounds like temp what is temp of cold plate under im needs 10deg f or lower

i neds parts for beer master u-line

the condensate drain pump will shut unit down and only run drain pump if over fill is seen may be noise you are hearing if condensate pump removed has to be wired so kill switch in drain pump is over ridden for gravity drain