True Refrigerators - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If this is a 120 volt system, 19 volts should not effect the solenoid. Looking for enough voltage to keep solenoid energized is probably what they were referring to look for. I believe that would be around 97 or so. Voltage feed back can come from the neutral as electricity goes to a device and most all consumed but some does go back on the neutral. (simply put.) I would let it run and see if it freezes up. You can get voltage feedback from any device in the structure. You can go to the receptacle and check from neutral to ground and see if it exists. Don't be surprised if it's there.

Look for something effecting air flow or the fan not running. First place to start.

Not sure how you can tell if it is working too hard. A fan usually makes noise and valves in the compressor also make noise. Several things can cause icing. In most cases, something that effects air flow. Secondly, on some units with a cap tube expansion device, a shortage of Freon can cause some freezing up.

Doubt if it is a gas problem. Sounds more like a thermostat issue. Rather surprised that the evap coil is not frosting or freezing up. System may have a defrost cycle or and off cycle defrost long enough to keep it clear. Try to pay attention to the cycling of the compressor to see if it is excessively running long. Thermostat may be available from Restaurant Parts and More. 1-888-814-1110. Talk to Matt or Bryan as they are the most experienced.

The symptoms are consistent with a bad thermostat. Start with being sure fans Inside and at the Compressor are running and if so replace the thermostat, if the unit still malfunctions, you'd need a refrigeration tech. That altitude won't make any difference. The Salad top units are just fine up to 7000 feet ASL no problem.

It sounds like the start components are bad on the compressor. Or the compressor is bad. Have a tech check it out as it is usually not a user type repair.

This could be a sign that it is low on refrigerant. If it is a cap tube system, this is usually an indication of the issue. I would start there. Also, be sure that the evap fan is running as it will cause frosting as well.

This is not true unless it was to get moldy or something like that.

There is a relay that starts the compressor, try checking that.

It could possibly be an issue with the thermostat not shutting off. I would set it at it's setting to see if it shuts off. If not replace the thermostat. Also check to see if the evaporator fans are running.

You can remove the offending door and add/remove spacer washers to adjust height of the door. Make sure door(s) are sealing on all 4 sides. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

If it's location is new, you may have it positioned in such a way that the air around the condenser is not moving. You must have circulating air all around the compressor compartment.

You have to verify that the compressor is running. Don't assume that it is just because the fan is running. the compressor may not be running. If compressor is running, good possibility that it is low on refrigerant. Most common and obvious.

If you are relating to the fan that is with the compressor, DO NOT RUN UNIT WITHOUT THIS FAN RUNNING. You can overheat the compressor and kill it. Some of these units use small plugs on the fan wires and it could have been pulled loose when the unit was moved. If you find the plug, be sure it is plugged in physically. Don't trust it just because it looks like it is plugged in. It may not be making a good connection.

Check that the arm that is supposed to push the cubes out of the tray is working. If the tray heater is open and not working the ice cannot be removed from the tray because it is stuck - element has to be replaced. But given the high cost of parts it may be cheaper to just go out and get a new icemaker on ebay for relatively little

https://prodtruestorage.blob.core.windows.net/installationmanuals/T-SERIES/T_SERIES_ENGLISH.pdf https://www.truemfg.com/Support/Resource-Library

this sounds like a perfect candidate for a tech to remove the refrigerant and weigh in the exact amount. This would eliminate so many refrigeration issues and possibly point in another direction. This will also allow the tech to check pressures from the compressor so as to check it's performance and pumping capabilities. This could also point you towards the expansion device function.

Double check to see that you do have in fact, the correct thermostat. I have found a chart that shows that the differential is all over the board. There is a way to adjust these thermostats but is very time consuming and if you are not a refrigeration tech, you may struggle with the procedure. https://www.truemfg.com/Support/Resource-Library