Subaru Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

It will depend on whether yours is an OBD system or not. OBD (On Board Diagnostics), didn't start to become a legal requirement until 1996 but some companies were fitting them earlier than that. First check your steering column for the green style connector on the attached image. If there is none like that, use a torch and get your head into the Driver's side footwell. Your looking for the black style connector, (red circle), on the attached image. It will be at about the height of the driver's knees at the door side. They are sometimes tucked up under the dashboard, out of sight, possibly behind a small flap or cover. I hope this helps.

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Where I live most auto parts stores will check and give you the error code which set off the check engine light. That will tell you the basic system which is setting it off. You can search of what other have done to repair for the error code. https://www.engine-light-help.com/subaru-check-engine-light.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhDzA-6dFm4 https://www.youcanic.com/guide/subaru-check-engine-light-problems https://www.tricitysubaru.com/check-engine-light-on-.htm

The culprit fuse was under the hood - 20 amp fuse called "backup". Discovered nice cache of spare fuses and fuse puller tool in the under the hood fuse box.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqhQ38R017Q Watch this video for help.

You would have a better chance location one if you use the year, make, model, and engine size information.

Make sure it gets gas; replace spark plug and apply chocke.

Common cause is a incorrectly tightened gas cap or defective pressure relief valve or seal in gas cap. Also a faulty purge valve or wiring to it and other small leaks. Go to the link for more info..

No - bleeding can be done well statically. Use a bleed tool to help get it right. After complete - check vacuum lines to master cylinder for cracks or leaks.

Car is not recognizin device..may need to flash computr. First unhook batt a fewmin w it installd then reconect and start car n let it relearn

Here's a link to replacing your oil pressure sending unit. https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0996b43f8037f2d4&partName=Oil+Pressure+Sensor&partId=0996b43f8037f2d4&repGuide=VehicleRepairGuides-Subaru+Forester+1998-05-null

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDib7zW00Vk

Space saver wheel is reckoned safe and legal to take a car at greatly reduced speed to the nearest place where the puncture can be repaired or the tyre replaced. It is worth noting the recommended pressure and maximum speed is engraved on the sidewall of the space saver tyre, which is only suitable for normal road surfaces.

Little point assuming it should work without some meter work to ensure it is not only receiving power but is drawing enough current for it to become hot enough quickly enough for deicing duty. I don't know how much current that should be but I expect 20 - 30 amps would be realistic, maybe more.

Dash board ground behind the gauges would be my guess.

https://www.quora.com/If-a-power-generator-is-running-but-no-voltage-is-produced-what-could-be-wrong-and-how-could-it-be-solved

Any codes? Many issues, tune-up, coils, wires, crankshaft sensor, cam sensor ??

Ignition switch first then look for the ignition relay under the hood.

I have used a flat blade smallest jeweler's screw driver to release connector contacts before when not having the correct contact release tool. The release tools are basically a handle with a thin walled tube at each end, one for socket contacts, the other end for pins. A picture or two of the connector and contacts from each end would be helpful. I hope this is of some help to you.

Hope you have this fixed by now but sounds like a bad battery.