Sub-Zero Refrigerators - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It is possible to replace the connector but might be hard to find the exact match. Maybe consider going to Fry's or a local electronic hobby store and replace both sides of the connector. You might even be able to find one that does a better job at moisture sealing...maybe an auto parts store that has replacement connectors for the engine compartment.

Do you still have a manual or can tell me the watts power consumption of the 532?

I'll look into your question. Sounds like a sticking icemaker water valve, but I'll have a look.

When you open the door, you will see screws holding the handle in place. It would be best to have an extra set of hands to support the handle as you remove the screws. Once all the screws are out then the handle will come off and the panel will slide out. Sometimes you will need to remove the top trim as well.

How soon did you start it up after you moved it & put it in its place?
If you plugged it in to soon after moving. Oil may have still been up in the wrong place of the compressor. Unplug it for about an hour. Then plug it back in. By plugging it in to early after moving you could have burnt up the compressor. This happens often.

Hi,
With refrigeration pressures that will vary greatly with the temperature.
When downn to proper cool temperatures the low will be around 10-15 and the high side 150 or so

heatman101

This "problem" may not be a problem at all. When you open the door of a cold space you admit warm air. The colder the space is before you open the door the more quickly the warm air you admitted by opening the door shrinks (contracts) as it meets the cold surfaces. This effect causes a short term vacuum in the space. The vacuum prevents the door opening until the internal and external pressures equalize again. This can take several seconds. There is a drain for draining defrost water from the compartment that has a water "trap" in it which is intended to minimize the effect. In some models a gurgling sound can be heard when door is closed as the vacuum tries to **** the water trap back into the compartment.

If you haven't noticed this happening in the past there can be several reasons.

1. Possibly you just never noticed the effect before.
   
2. If your refrigerator has less stored in it than usual the air exchange when you open the door can be larger than normal and the volume of warm air admitted may take longer to "shrink".
   
3. The thermostat for the compartment has been turned down without your knowledge or has failed making the compartment colder than usual.Take temperatures. Refrigerators should be 36-42 degrees while freezers should normally be close to zero.
4. The drain for that compartment is clogged and needs to be cleared. A turkey baster with hot water can usually clear the drain.
   

Except for a faulty control and the clogged drain the other issues are no "problem" and merely a function of the "tightness" of the insulation of the refrigerator

Here are the most common Sub-Zero error codes: Sub-Zero Error Code EC40: Freezer will not stop running Sub-Zero Error Code EC50: Refrigerator runs too much Sub-Zero Error Code EC24: Defroster is not heating enough Sub-Zero Error Code EC 06: Evaporator thermistor reads inconsistent temperatures Sub-Zero Error Code EC20: Defrost Bi-Metal Operation is faulty Larry Rogers http://sparkleappliance.com/ca/sub-zero-refrigerator-repair-los-angeles

I've cleaned out refrigerators at work (we had a lot) and found the main problem was dust and hot food placed in fridge. Kitchens with daily cooking and no stove vents (or clogged vents) will also begin to coat the tubing in drain lines. It's also a sign that the defrost cycle stopped or is also clogged with dust which prevents the unit from cooling properly and defrosting properly. I suggest you call your vendor for service. Please note that many refrigerators have very long warranty period even if the warehouse outlet you bought if from is gone or won't help. Check directly with the MFR for assistance. Many times I've taken repair action only to find that I need a part and the service parts store charges me for a part that would have been free if I called for service. This happens when you 'Think' it's too old. * As far as your current situation goes. The drain line is already clogged and needs to be physically cleared. You will need a qualified technician to clear it. *** The following is for information only*** * I've had luck clearing a semi clogged line by blowing compressed air down (or up from the drain pan). * If the line is large enough then a small diameter plastic tube (NOT wire!) pushed down the line may help but caution must be used as you may end up with a tighter plug that's harder to remove. I usually reserve this method for slow draining tubes that can't clear using an algaecide in the drain line. * There are appliance supply stores that carry algaecide for use in "defrost" drain lines. These are usually used at commercial refrigerated warehouses. You may find smaller bottles at other outlets, maybe a Sear's or Wal-mart. Follow the instructions on the bottle for your size of refrigerator. You should check your refrigerator's manual for the recommended product to use. * Final; To answer your question. I've found to sterilize water (from the river, pond, etc.) If it's pre-filtered then 3 drops will suffice. But I've heard 6 to 10 drops if it's really bad. Since your not drinking this stuff then popping a small cap full (your bleach bottle) will work nicely. 1-2 drops of detergent will loosen things up a bit to. I've used this methods on sump collection systems to prevent "Jellyfish-crud" from clogging up the pumps. This is a yeast that grows well in cold water. Normally the heater in the fan/coils get the water warm enough to flush all this stuff down. But if there is a problem with the system then the drain lines beging to clog up. That is why you should have the refrigerator checked out. Quite sure there is another problem causing your line to clog up. * Remember this treatment is only to prevent the line from clogging up. You will probably have to perform this at least 3-4 months if not more often. Suggest vacuum cleaning the back or lower grill area to remove the dust (Hair balls if you have pets.) Perform the recommended annual cleaning mentioned in your manual. Aloha, ukeboy57 PS; don't go overboard on the bleach as it does eat up some metals like aluminium. Check the lower drip tray and dump out any liquids. It's under the refrigerator, behind the grill.

i know this is late but there's a heater kit made for this 4202160 is part number,you remove the shelves,you can put a mark under the shelf arm on the far outside where the shelves hook on so you can put them back in the same spot,then remove the light cover,the two screws and metal cover and then pull the wall off and set it to the side ,the drain heater kit plugs into the wire harness,the heater will heat up and keep drain from freezing,you can slide the tube off,stick a screw driver in to hold it down to the floor so you don't burn your hand and blow hot air into it with hair dryer to melt out ice,keep heat on for like 20 to 30 seconds then cold air or remove heat you don't want to mess the hose up from overheating wait a bit and hit it again until you melt out the ice,then i use a long plastic wire tie to stick into drain hose to clean it out,some nasty stuff in there,i use a steamer to clean the line out and then i have a piece of 1/4 inch plastic water line to snake into the drain,if this is the first time this has happened you don't need the heater kit,just clean out the tube and metal drain trough,also clean the back of the top crisper drawer shelf,crumbs and stuff can get in between the back wall and the top shelf and then will fall into the drain,if you keep that area clean you won't have to many issues and keep the fridge a little warmer so it doesn't freeze up the water in the drain tube,put the drain tube back onto the trough and pour hot water into it,if it drains down you're done if it's still blocked get a turkey baster and push hot water down into the drain tube to clear it,if it still doesn't clear remove the bottom kick panel,you'll see the drain pan and look at it because you have to get it back the same way in the clips then you can see the drain tube,stick a plastic tie up in there to clean it,sometimes there could be dust or something in the drain pan,when the water hits it it can get into the bottom of tube and block it but i've only had to do that once,hope this helps you out.