Sub-Zero Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Mark,I've got a 700 Series and have found some of these sites very helpful in running tests and discovering the fault codes.https://www.google.com/search?q=sub-zero+661+enter+diagnostics&newwindow=1&sxsrf=APwXEdc-OOiWdARscxmB36rYFCeB7mc_eQ%3A1683475309954&source=hp&ei=bctXZOLSN_uz0PEPu_aaoAI&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZFfZfYm8SNK-nX24VEwOvWrAcCMus128&oq=Sub-Zero+661+enter+di&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYAjIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyCAghEBYQHhAdOgYIABAWEB46CAgAEBYQHhAPOgUIIRCrAlAAWJ9KYIGLAWgBcAB4AIABvgGIAegMkgEEMC4xMZgBAKABAqABAQ&sclient=gws-wizBest to you.Also one thing too check is the door seal. My 700 compressor was running all the time and it turned out to be a bad door seal. I did however get a EC code so it may not be this in your case.

Question edited for clarity and typo. Undercounter fridges tend to get neglected. Pull it out and clean the condenser fins and any vents back there. If that doesn't fix it, it probably needs a refrigerant gas top up. There is a video that may be of interest. https://www.google.com/search?q=Subzero+249RP ..

Well, you probably have a bad defrost terminator if the fan is running. If the fan never runs, it's probably a bad fan. the terminator is what tells the heater when the defrost is done so it doesn't overheat. If it goes bad, the self defrost quits working. Another option is the defrost tier may be bad. If you remove the grille up top the tier is mounted in a panel next to the condenser. it has a little place where you can turn it clockwise with a flathead screwdriver to "fast-forward" it. With the freezer still turned on, turn that timer very slowly clockwise. it will make tiny little clicking noises. turn it until it makes a much louder click. It should now be in defrost mode. If you go too far, just turn it all the way around again. Now wait a few minutes and see if it starts defrosting the ice in the freezer on the coils. if the defrost system starts working , you need a timer. The old part # was 3081180, but the deal should know what you need and be able to cross it. If it does not defrost, it is probably that terminator in the freezer, mounted to the coils just to the right and behind the icemaker. That is much harder to get to . Good luck!

Hi, It's possible that your refrigerator could have it's own capacitor/battery that needs to be charged to a certain level before every portion of your fridge functions again. You can give the fridge 1.5 hours to be plugged in before checking your freezer temperature again. If that does not work, please call sub zero by dialing 1 (800) 222-7820 Thank you.

All in the link. Make sure you are sitting down, have a glass of water and smelling salts!! https://www.google.com/search?q=Sub+Zero+model+690%2F+F+cost+to+replace+evaporator+coil ..

The drain at the rear of the fridge is possibly clogged. To check: Remove all the shelves and crisper in fridge, remove the lighting diffuser panel you will then see 3 screws at the top of the back panel. Undo these screws and lift the panel up and out. This will expose the drain trough at the rear base of the fridge compartment. There is a small drain hole right in the middle of the trough. I found mine to be completely clogged and the trough was overflowing into the fridge compartment.Use a small wire (I used a twist tie wire) to poke into the hole and open up the drain.This should stop the problem, as any water will now drain to the tray in the base and evaporate.I also found that the door was really hard to open immediately after it was closed and after I cleared the drain this problem wnet away (I think the clogged drain was allowing a vacuuum to be created in the fridge when the door closed.

Check if Your fridge has ice or moisture on the back wall, behind that drawer, and if service light or vacuum condenser lights are on, if so : you will need to go thru this repair I show on my youtube chanel. Hope It helps. How To Replace Sub Zero Evaporator HD 1080

Fans working and air flowing thru the cooling coils? The inside fan warms the evaporator, or cooling coil. If this coil does not go thru a defrost cycle or if there is ice build up to the point no air gets across it, that could be the scenario.Then it would need defrosting, or inspection to make sure there is free air flow both inside and outside the fridge, including the defrost timer if present. If all this checks out ok, then the refrigeration circuit is to be looked at by a technician.

I fixed my leaking problem by pulling out the vegetable drawer and checking the condensation drain hose. Sure enough, it was clogged and the condensation had nowhere to go but move out toward the front of the fridge, down the left side and onto the floor. Once that drain hose was cleared (with a bendable straw), no more leak!

hi thanks for the question you do have a no defrost problem The defrost timer is not advancing to the defrost cycle The timer is located on the top where the compressor is located do ypu have an owners manual if you do you should have a bresk down of that fridge So replace the timer thanks The appliance doc

check and inspect gasket seal or door not closing tight

if the ice maker leaking it's easy to replace, or may be just a water supply tube has been moved to the side

Most valves are the same.. icemaker fill valves

Turn the refrigerator off for a minute to reset the vaccum condenser light.

Fridge and freezer cabinets aren't anywhere near as rigid as they look - it is important they stand on firm level ground and using a spirit level and any adjustable feet the cabinet should stand level and four-square. This is good for the compressor too. Once level and square the door will remain in whatever position it is placed. There isn't usually much or any adjustment available at the door hinges but if there is the door should be adjusted for the best fit and the magnetic door seal should close to the metal of the cabinet and create an almost airtight seal. If after this process the door doesn't fit and an almost even gap between the door and cabinet isn't achievable, the door might be warped - the door also isn't rigid; very flimsy and flexible without the plastic liner and so any warp in the door is likely to be caused by a badly fitted liner or a poor quality liner...

Suggest first add up the costs to fix everything needed on your unit verses its age. My guess would be more cost effective to buy a new fridge.

I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example. The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine. Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan. A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things. I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Hi fridges will warm up on the outside as they remove heat from the inside. excessive heat with not extreme cooling inside the fridge indicates a possible degridation of coolant fluid or a leak. as the motor tries to cool the fridge the thermostat inside stays on as the tempreture inside has not been reached. if you hear the motor/ pump continually running this will indicate a cooling problem.

Sounds like the gear is failing in the ice maker unit. I would replace it.