Sub-Zero Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example.

The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine.
Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan.

A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things.

I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Sep 22, 2019


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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.


If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Sep 09, 2019


The drain at the rear of the fridge is possibly clogged. To check: Remove all the shelves and crisper in fridge, remove the lighting diffuser panel you will then see 3 screws at the top of the back panel. Undo these screws and lift the panel up and out. This will expose the drain trough at the rear base of the fridge compartment. There is a small drain hole right in the middle of the trough. I found mine to be completely clogged and the trough was overflowing into the fridge compartment.Use a small wire (I used a twist tie wire) to poke into the hole and open up the drain.This should stop the problem, as any water will now drain to the tray in the base and evaporate.
I also found that the door was really hard to open immediately after it was closed and after I cleared the drain this problem wnet away (I think the clogged drain was allowing a vacuuum to be created in the fridge when the door closed.

Sub-Zero 736TCI... | Answered on Aug 28, 2019


Hi fridges will warm up on the outside as they remove heat from the inside. excessive heat with not extreme cooling inside the fridge indicates a possible degridation of coolant fluid or a leak. as the motor tries to cool the fridge the thermostat inside stays on as the tempreture inside has not been reached. if you hear the motor/ pump continually running this will indicate a cooling problem.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Jun 24, 2019


Sounds like the gear is failing in the ice maker unit. I would replace it.

Sub-Zero 650 / O... | Answered on May 31, 2019


It is possible to replace the connector but might be hard to find the exact match. Maybe consider going to Fry's or a local electronic hobby store and replace both sides of the connector. You might even be able to find one that does a better job at moisture sealing...maybe an auto parts store that has replacement connectors for the engine compartment.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on May 31, 2019


Do you still have a manual or can tell me the watts power consumption of the 532?

I'll look into your question. Sounds like a sticking icemaker water valve, but I'll have a look.

Sub-Zero 632 / S | Answered on May 16, 2019


When you open the door, you will see screws holding the handle in place. It would be best to have an extra set of hands to support the handle as you remove the screws. Once all the screws are out then the handle will come off and the panel will slide out. Sometimes you will need to remove the top trim as well.
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Sub-Zero... | Answered on Apr 22, 2019


How soon did you start it up after you moved it & put it in its place?
If you plugged it in to soon after moving. Oil may have still been up in the wrong place of the compressor. Unplug it for about an hour. Then plug it back in. By plugging it in to early after moving you could have burnt up the compressor. This happens often.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


I fixed my leaking problem by pulling out the vegetable drawer and checking the condensation drain hose. Sure enough, it was clogged and the condensation had nowhere to go but move out toward the front of the fridge, down the left side and onto the floor. Once that drain hose was cleared (with a bendable straw), no more leak!

Sub-Zero 650 / O... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019


CONTACT YOUR LOCAL DEALER , WE KNOW OF NOT FIX HERE

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Feb 02, 2019


Hi,
With refrigeration pressures that will vary greatly with the temperature.
When downn to proper cool temperatures the low will be around 10-15 and the high side 150 or so

heatman101

Sub-Zero 632 / S | Answered on Jan 17, 2019


Fans working and air flowing thru the cooling coils?
The inside fan warms the evaporator, or cooling coil. If this coil does not go thru a defrost cycle or if there is ice build up to the point no air gets across it, that could be the scenario.Then it would need defrosting, or inspection to make sure there is free air flow both inside and outside the fridge, including the defrost timer if present. If all this checks out ok, then the refrigeration circuit is to be looked at by a technician.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Jan 03, 2019


This "problem" may not be a problem at all. When you open the door of a cold space you admit warm air. The colder the space is before you open the door the more quickly the warm air you admitted by opening the door shrinks (contracts) as it meets the cold surfaces. This effect causes a short term vacuum in the space. The vacuum prevents the door opening until the internal and external pressures equalize again. This can take several seconds. There is a drain for draining defrost water from the compartment that has a water "trap" in it which is intended to minimize the effect. In some models a gurgling sound can be heard when door is closed as the vacuum tries to **** the water trap back into the compartment.

If you haven't noticed this happening in the past there can be several reasons.
  1. Possibly you just never noticed the effect before.
  2. If your refrigerator has less stored in it than usual the air exchange when you open the door can be larger than normal and the volume of warm air admitted may take longer to "shrink".
  3. The thermostat for the compartment has been turned down without your knowledge or has failed making the compartment colder than usual.Take temperatures. Refrigerators should be 36-42 degrees while freezers should normally be close to zero.
  4. The drain for that compartment is clogged and needs to be cleared. A turkey baster with hot water can usually clear the drain.
Except for a faulty control and the clogged drain the other issues are no "problem" and merely a function of the "tightness" of the insulation of the refrigerator


Sub-Zero 632 / S | Answered on Dec 31, 2018


Poor defrost water drainage into evap tray. The tube may be clogged.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Nov 09, 2018


Turn the refrigerator off for a minute to reset the vaccum condenser light.

Sub-Zero 650 / O... | Answered on Oct 17, 2018

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