Sub-Zero Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Mark,I've got a 700 Series and have found some of these sites very helpful in running tests and discovering the fault codes.https://www.google.com/search?q=sub-zero+661+enter+diagnostics&newwindow=1&sxsrf=APwXEdc-OOiWdARscxmB36rYFCeB7mc_eQ%3A1683475309954&source=hp&ei=bctXZOLSN_uz0PEPu_aaoAI&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZFfZfYm8SNK-nX24VEwOvWrAcCMus128&oq=Sub-Zero+661+enter+di&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYAjIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyCAghEBYQHhAdOgYIABAWEB46CAgAEBYQHhAPOgUIIRCrAlAAWJ9KYIGLAWgBcAB4AIABvgGIAegMkgEEMC4xMZgBAKABAqABAQ&sclient=gws-wizBest to you.Also one thing too check is the door seal. My 700 compressor was running all the time and it turned out to be a bad door seal. I did however get a EC code so it may not be this in your case.

That usually happens when it needs descaling. You can put in videos if you put them on YouTube and link to it. Pictures you can do direct from your computer to here.

Question edited for clarity and typo. Undercounter fridges tend to get neglected. Pull it out and clean the condenser fins and any vents back there. If that doesn't fix it, it probably needs a refrigerant gas top up. There is a video that may be of interest. https://www.google.com/search?q=Subzero+249RP ..

Hi, It's possible that your refrigerator could have it's own capacitor/battery that needs to be charged to a certain level before every portion of your fridge functions again. You can give the fridge 1.5 hours to be plugged in before checking your freezer temperature again. If that does not work, please call sub zero by dialing 1 (800) 222-7820 Thank you.

All in the link. Make sure you are sitting down, have a glass of water and smelling salts!! https://www.google.com/search?q=Sub+Zero+model+690%2F+F+cost+to+replace+evaporator+coil ..

check and inspect gasket seal or door not closing tight

Most valves are the same.. icemaker fill valves

Fridge and freezer cabinets aren't anywhere near as rigid as they look - it is important they stand on firm level ground and using a spirit level and any adjustable feet the cabinet should stand level and four-square. This is good for the compressor too. Once level and square the door will remain in whatever position it is placed. There isn't usually much or any adjustment available at the door hinges but if there is the door should be adjusted for the best fit and the magnetic door seal should close to the metal of the cabinet and create an almost airtight seal. If after this process the door doesn't fit and an almost even gap between the door and cabinet isn't achievable, the door might be warped - the door also isn't rigid; very flimsy and flexible without the plastic liner and so any warp in the door is likely to be caused by a badly fitted liner or a poor quality liner...

Suggest first add up the costs to fix everything needed on your unit verses its age. My guess would be more cost effective to buy a new fridge.

I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example. The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine. Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan. A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things. I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.

When you open the door, you will see screws holding the handle in place. It would be best to have an extra set of hands to support the handle as you remove the screws. Once all the screws are out then the handle will come off and the panel will slide out. Sometimes you will need to remove the top trim as well.

How soon did you start it up after you moved it & put it in its place?
If you plugged it in to soon after moving. Oil may have still been up in the wrong place of the compressor. Unplug it for about an hour. Then plug it back in. By plugging it in to early after moving you could have burnt up the compressor. This happens often.

Fans working and air flowing thru the cooling coils? The inside fan warms the evaporator, or cooling coil. If this coil does not go thru a defrost cycle or if there is ice build up to the point no air gets across it, that could be the scenario.Then it would need defrosting, or inspection to make sure there is free air flow both inside and outside the fridge, including the defrost timer if present. If all this checks out ok, then the refrigeration circuit is to be looked at by a technician.

Sounds like the gear is failing in the ice maker unit. I would replace it.

Put some oil on the fan's axis

Sub Zero 601R 2 Technical Service Manual

Not filter but condenser coil thathe is next to compressor. Clean it out then check unit operation

I've cleaned out refrigerators at work (we had a lot) and found the main problem was dust and hot food placed in fridge. Kitchens with daily cooking and no stove vents (or clogged vents) will also begin to coat the tubing in drain lines. It's also a sign that the defrost cycle stopped or is also clogged with dust which prevents the unit from cooling properly and defrosting properly. I suggest you call your vendor for service. Please note that many refrigerators have very long warranty period even if the warehouse outlet you bought if from is gone or won't help. Check directly with the MFR for assistance. Many times I've taken repair action only to find that I need a part and the service parts store charges me for a part that would have been free if I called for service. This happens when you 'Think' it's too old. * As far as your current situation goes. The drain line is already clogged and needs to be physically cleared. You will need a qualified technician to clear it. *** The following is for information only*** * I've had luck clearing a semi clogged line by blowing compressed air down (or up from the drain pan). * If the line is large enough then a small diameter plastic tube (NOT wire!) pushed down the line may help but caution must be used as you may end up with a tighter plug that's harder to remove. I usually reserve this method for slow draining tubes that can't clear using an algaecide in the drain line. * There are appliance supply stores that carry algaecide for use in "defrost" drain lines. These are usually used at commercial refrigerated warehouses. You may find smaller bottles at other outlets, maybe a Sear's or Wal-mart. Follow the instructions on the bottle for your size of refrigerator. You should check your refrigerator's manual for the recommended product to use. * Final; To answer your question. I've found to sterilize water (from the river, pond, etc.) If it's pre-filtered then 3 drops will suffice. But I've heard 6 to 10 drops if it's really bad. Since your not drinking this stuff then popping a small cap full (your bleach bottle) will work nicely. 1-2 drops of detergent will loosen things up a bit to. I've used this methods on sump collection systems to prevent "Jellyfish-crud" from clogging up the pumps. This is a yeast that grows well in cold water. Normally the heater in the fan/coils get the water warm enough to flush all this stuff down. But if there is a problem with the system then the drain lines beging to clog up. That is why you should have the refrigerator checked out. Quite sure there is another problem causing your line to clog up. * Remember this treatment is only to prevent the line from clogging up. You will probably have to perform this at least 3-4 months if not more often. Suggest vacuum cleaning the back or lower grill area to remove the dust (Hair balls if you have pets.) Perform the recommended annual cleaning mentioned in your manual. Aloha, ukeboy57 PS; don't go overboard on the bleach as it does eat up some metals like aluminium. Check the lower drip tray and dump out any liquids. It's under the refrigerator, behind the grill.

that could be caused by a freon leak in the evaporator coil,sometimes you can reset the board but if it comes back you know there's a problem,a clogged condenser coil or the condenser fan is bad but basically it's telling you it's running to warm, if you cleaned the coil and the fan is blowing strong most likely you have a leak in the sealed system usually the evaporator coil has to be replaced.i know this is to late you probably already fixed this problem would just like to tell you how i clean out the coil up top,unplug the machine with the quick disconnect up top or flip the breaker,i use a stinger shop vac,it's a small shop vac,i clean the front of coil with the brush attachment and then clean all the walls and wherever else i can get with the brush,then i put a towel up to cover the top just like the front grill does,set the vac to blow and blow through the coil,the towel keeps most of the dust inside when you blow it,do that a few times on the right side,after every time you blow it lift up the towel and vac up anything that blew out,then go to the fan side and do the same thing,also blow out the whole top cabinet too,any dust that's in the back or under the wire harness where you can't get will blow out and you can vac it up,then remove the towel and hit it a few more times,you can stick a flash light or drop light on the right side of coil and look through the fan side,if it's clear you're done.this should be done at least once a year,it could be the difference of having no problems with overheating,you'll save your compressor,the fan motor will last longer,if you don't do it and you cook a compressor you're looking at around a 2000 dollar repair,take a half hour once a year and clean out your coil.i have some old ones out there 25 to 30 years old,i go once a year to clean out peoples coils,it will add years to your machine,good luck with your subby.one ore thing that happens is the drain can clog,junk can get into the drain or the drain troft,if you find water dripping in the fridge section you'll know the drain is blocked,just a heads up.