Stanley Air Tools & Compressors - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

not a car moved yah/

There are lots of models. Some have a trigger lock and some have a 5 position trigger. https://www.google.com/search?q=stanley+spotlight+manual ..

This can be caused by a couple of things: - Material is too hard and causing the nail to stress - Nails are too long causing the same thing - End of driver is worn or chipped causing the driver to ride over the nail and pop the nose open.

Use Bostitch sb32 oil or another pneumolube and this is an example option to use an oil nebulizer between the compressor and most mechanical airtools.

Talking in the past tense about compressor working fine before. Is it working fine now" If it is, pumping the air tank full, and air not coming from the end of the hose, the end tool valve maybe jammed, or the hose plugged. (sometimes the inner lining of the hose separates from the reinforcing mesh and clogs the hose) To test this theory, take the hose off from the tank (when no air is in the tank), start the compressor and see if the air is pumping out freely. If it is then the compressor is indeed fine. Take the tool of the end of the hose, then reconnect the hose and restart the compressor. This will tel you if either the hose or the end tool is at fault.

Stanley TRE550 Owner Manual

check for a failed start/run capacitor otherwise take the motor to a repair shop or get a new motor

Hello, Sean - I hope I am safe to assume you need to find a replacement knob for a Stanley brand Pro-Ceramic Utility Heater with Pivot Power Model 675919. If so, I refer you to Lasko, the company which manufactures that heater under the Stanley brand name. This is the number to call the Lasko Parts and Accessories Customer Service Department to find out if they supply (sell) replacement knobs for your unit: 800-233-0268 (Monday - Friday, 8am-5pm, Eastern Time zone) Best wishes

At the end where you attach the air hose is the nailer imprinted with the words "add oil"? If so; add a few drops of oil designed for air nailers. Also check to make sure no nails are stuck in the tip of the nailer and the return mechanism is reset.

Try to remove the hose, then see if air comes out when you switch it on.

If the motor cover was removed to test power there and it is there. Check for electric continuity across the motor with the power leads disconnected. If the motor is electrical open, find the open or replace the motor.
Inside the motor is a thermal overload motor protection device, it may be defective

If it's a gas unit, clean and lube. If an air unit, take of the cap and dump some air tool oil in there unless it's a oilless tool, then use silicone based lube.

read the user manual to see what has to be done to pump air you may have to put it on the tire stem to depress the valve in the hose and the stem

replace the poppet/reed vallves in the head/s

Air leaking from trigger when attempting to fire the gun is normal and should cause nailer to fire, however if the trigger pin is not depressed all the way in,the gun may not respond. Easy test. Remove the nails and remove the trigger. Connect the gun to air and quickly depress the valve pin all the way in with finger. If the gun fires, adjust the safety foot so that the trigger pin is depressed all the way in. If the gun still does not fire, then remove the head cap and pull out the headvalve. Apply plenty of white grease to orings and retest. If the gun fires, then replace the headvalve orings. When the headvalve orings are worn, air will leak from bulkhead chamber to the headvalve chamber causing the gun to not respond to the trigger. The addition of grease to worn orings will make them temporarily seal. Good luck

Some of those you have to push in or pull out on to turn.

is it building up any pressure on the gauge if the pressure recorded is around 40 psi or less , replace the failed poppet/reed valves in the compressor head if it goes to 100 psi then replace the automatic controller for the motor