Replace the batteries in the remote with fresh ones. Take your smartphone and use the front facing selfie camera to to see if you see a flashing red light when you press a button on the remote with the front of the remote facing the phone. If you can the red light, the remote is working.
The speakers have quit working or the wires that connect to the speakers are faulty or there is a source component that is malfunctioning on your stereo that needs to be repaired or replaced.
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How do I connect the Home Theatre System so that I can hear surround sound from the TV instead of through the TV speakers?
Have you tried to manually reset the time? I had the same problem. It got the the point where it was almost 20 minutes fast - I finally looked up the manual on-line and found instructions to manually reset it. It seemed to work just fine. I'm not sure if I have the same model as you do, but I'm sure the procedure is similar. I suggest you search the net for your manual.
Failure of the the power source. To see if it's fixable the receiver will have to be opened and the power board tested . This job requires at least a basic experience in electronics - if you don't posses it all you can do is to look for a burned fuse or damaged capacitors. For them follow this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4
There's so much information missing from this question, but assuming this is a DVD changer, it's a disc error. Either the disc is upside-down or backwards and can't be read, is too dirty/scratched or unsupported and can't be read, or the entire mechanism is jammed or malfunctioning. If there are discs in the tray and you can remove them all, remove them and see if the error goes away. If the tray will not open, either take the cover off and remove the discs, or bring it to a service center.
I think I have this unit. Did you turn the balance control firmly in both directions fully left to right? If you could get behind it, you could spray it with electrical switch cleaner. If you changed speakers over and you checked the wiring connection on the unit and and on the speaker, then it will be an amplifier stage issue, perhaps a failing capacitor. You can look for that. If not, Sony Service Centre.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/242635/Sony-Str-D590.html?page=8#manual
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You can find those replacement cables on eBay for about $30 plus tax (free shipping) if you go there and search for "sa-va3". The connectors were made by JST, and don't seem to be available any more.A less expensive option, for those inclined to make their own cables, would be to switch to a different connector, such as one made by Molex. I found a seller on eBay who sold me two sets of 9-pin Molex panel mount connectors plus pins for $11.53 including tax and shipping. I will replace the JST socket on each speaker with a Molex socket, and then make a suitable cable with wire on hand. This should work fine, will save me $20, and keep me entertained for a while.
Have your device being fully plugged into an outlet that works and turn off and take off any serge protectors and if it is still not working your device might be broken and needs to be repaired or replaced.
Get a CD cleaning disc from Walmart or Amazon. There are two laser optics, tracking and read/write/ It sounds like both of yours are dusty with either causing the issue. The tiny brushes on the disc clean the lasers.
A suitable 7cm 1watt 8ohm speaker is available from Amazon which is shallow enough to fit in. Just search 8ohm 7cm speaker.
My 1980 vintage ICF7600 (analogue SW(x5) MW and FM)'s speaker suffered from the repeated loud click on switch-on caused by a design 'feature' which at every switch-on of the radio placed the entire charging current of the audio output isolating electrolytic 470mfd capacitor through the speaker momentarily until the capacitor had reached full charge at the half rail voltage of the audio output stage single ended pair. Eventually after 30-40 years of occasional use the speaker failed open-circuit! Bad circuit design Sony.
A replacement original speaker was difficult to source, so I obtained through Amazon a suitable 1watt 8ohm speaker for the purpose. This and a 3watt similar item were bought for about £5 each.
Instead of subjecting the new speaker to the same sharp current pulse of the 470mfd charging current at every switch-on, I modified the speaker drive circuitry by replacing the polarised 470mfd electrolytic with a 1000mfd non-polarised electrolytic capacitor and adding a half-rail voltage divider across the power rails formed of a pair of 1k resistors each bypassed by a 470mfd polarised electrolytic capacitor to act as a suitable audio output ground return for the -ve speaker terminal, the speaker's +ve terminal being fed as usual from the earphone feed-through output terminal when no earphone is plugged in.
The audio output circuitry is as originally intended for an earphone plugged in, apart from the 470mfd electrolytic capacitor replaced by a 1000mfd non-polarised electrolytic.
Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)' and written English.
Question moved to the correct Make Model category from Gaming Consoles category.
Get yourself a CD /DVR cleaning disc from Walmart or Amazon. It cleans the optics of dust.
https://www.google.com/search?q=CD+cleaning+Disc
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