Snap-On Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Edited question for clarity and guessed the full model number as not supplied and always needed. Changed Category from Laundry Dryer to Snap-On MIG Welder. Apart from that, good job :>D Wiring diagram and Service Manual https://www.google.com/search?q=snap+on+ya212+wiring+diagram&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=AOaemvIdYG_6oNVYOvy4ar5TXXiQenATVg:1632277372696&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=prIJOp-66IbZtM%252C2iNZJ6TAq2uNrM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRNnLABdmh_Ail41107-Px1zOMBRQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjCpuWHw5HzAhUIVd8KHTD5CCsQ9QF6BAgYEAE#imgrc=Ml1S4yeUFCJSCM ..

contact snap on directly

Replace your contact tip on the end of the mig gun Sounds like youve arced it out and the wire is stuck in the end of the contact tip but steel feeding possibly spitting wire out of the drive roll like we like to say birds nest

You will need to contact snapon.... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pro_det.asp?Item_id=12633&group_id=8485

Could be a shorted output rectifier (diode). This would cause a lot of current pull, and therefore voltage drop (fan slowing down). The electrolytic capacitors are for dc voltage, and will blow with wrong polarity, which means ac voltage would be the wrong polarity half the time.

Does it snap or melt due to welding current? both point to a problem with the welding gun/torch tip liner damage to current carrying conductors

That is not enough variance in the pot. The value should be listed on the POT.

See link for snap on pressure washer manuals. http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/snap-on-pressure-washer-parts-manual

Red goes to red, and black goes to black, that's as much info as I can give you because of the spelling and wording Thanks Terry

Could be a poor ground at the work piece . The trigger switch might not be applying power to the nozzle. Check fuses and circuit breakers

Follow this link to view the parts list: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pro_det.asp?Item_id=638471&group_id=677837

What is the model and how did it freeze?

Are you using a long power cord? that could be your problem

Check what the voltage is for the motor- it should be 120 VAC- but check to make sure as the only real test other than a continuity test of the winding is to apply power directly to the motor itself.Chances are either a fuse on the circuit board failed, or the SCR's on the circuit board failed. There is only a remote chance the speed control potentiometer failed- this should ahve a resistance between 1K and 10K across the outside terminals and should vary from 0 to that value as you turn knob.The SCR's can be ordered through http://www.digikey.comIf in any doubt, or the number on the SCR has been removed order 800 volt 10 Amp normal SCR if there is a pair of power devices on the board, or a Triac if a single power device.

Hi:The problem must be the solenoid valve. This one must be stuck and remains open always. Dirt or metal shavings can the reason.Change the solenoid valve.

If you are popping the circuit breaker, even after installing the new one (15 or 17 amps will make no difference), your motor is trying to work too hard and creating to much of a draw on the circuit for the breaker to handle. This is usually caused by too much friction somewhere. Things to check are:
1. The long thing on the motor is the start and/or run capacitor. If they're bad the motor will usually hum and try to start but won't spin at all and it usually trips the breaker. The capacitors can be tested to see if they still have the capacitance rated on the side of the case but you have to find someone with a testor, they're not a common tool. Most refridgeration repairmen have one.
2. The motor bearings. Try turning the motor by hand without the pump piston attached. It should spin very freely.
3. The piston to motor bushing/bearing should also turn with very little resistance.
4. The piston itself should ride in the cylinder fairly tightly but should move smoothly in it.
Replace anything causing the motor to work so hard that it's popping the breaker.

It could be the gas solenoid sticking, though normally hitting the inch button would not make any differance so it could be a problem on the PC board.

I own and love my Snap-On YA-212A and had a similar problem that turned out to be a power issue, not a welder issue. Repair costs and parts availability of these welders can vary wildly, it may be cheaper to replace it with a Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart. Snap-On uses more than one supplier to make their welders, if you tell me the exact model number I can probably tell you who manufactured it,
For now, try the following:

1. Unplug the welder from the power outlet on the wall
2. The power cable where it connects to the welder should be a twist lock type, make sure it is not loose. Take it off and look for any signs of arcing that look like it may have been a bad connection
3. Look at the power connector that plugs into the wall and look for signs of arcing. If possible, take the back off the plug that goes into the wall and ensure that everything looks tight.
4. Put the power cable back on the welder
5. If your breaker box has a load controller turn it off and try your welder again
6. Replace the circuit breaker in the breaker box on your house

how to calibrate a snap on wheel balancer wb 260a

First thing I would check is the relay that sends power to the transformer when you pull the trigger. That can be one of the hardest parts of a Mig welder to troubleshoot because you can read full voltage through the thing with a multimeter when the contacts are dirty and it's not functioning properly.

That's assuming you're losing power. If it's a feed issue then we can address that later.

lp