You're probably already done with your project by now, but you should wait at least 24 hours, lightly sand, and wipe surface with acetone and a microfiber towel before applying a second coat.
Sir,
Try this resource for reliability and accuracy. There is a helpline so you may reflect a personal solution and be given a suggestive application. Having read the file. Section 33 Construction Adhesives & section 11 DAP Silicone Plus will interest you. More and more we are relying on chemistry to help save . Give this resource a look. http://www.dap.com/docs/catalogs/DAPCatalogUS.pdf . Fare. Well.
no this is overkill. the seem tape is only necessary for seems, screw holes can be covered by a coat of joint compound, and sanded smooth after it dries
I would get a small can of contact cement. Follow directions( ex. coat each side to be glued with each other wait usually 5 min. and then press together.) There is also Scotch spray on adhesive that will also work.
There is no effective long term way to store tubes of silicon. Even unopened tubes have a finite shelf life. I have found the most effective way to store opened tubes for medium lenght time, is to allow a bit of excess to flow over the tip, and allow it to form a plug. In a few months, this plug may extend the full length of the nozzle, but you can push this out with a piece of steel rod (from the tip end). I keep my tubes of silicone and caulking in a cool dry place. I've never tried the bucket of water method, so I don't know how successful that would be.
Elasto Patch is an Exterior waterproofing product in the family of Elastomeric coatings used on stucco-
Cut it off the wall with a sheetrock knife and back fill it with All Purpose Joint Compound then skim coat it with Topping compound-
Perry Tradesman
sounds like off gassing. I suspect 1 of the following:
1. you didn't wait for the adhesive to dry to tackiness before applying
2. it's in direct sunlight or in a hot area
3. the material for the map is very thin and/or stretchy
On pre-mixed buckets, a lot of dry-wallers add just a little water and whip it up when tape and texturing. It flows of the blade better. But, if you're just repairing a few holes, dings and gouges, then no real need............unless it's really thickened up on you.
If you have a partial bucket and are not going to use it for a while, you may want to flick some water on the surface and lay Saran wrap on the surface, then cap the bucket.
Hello below is answer:
Curing Time: The cure of Loctite PL S10 varies with temperature and humidity. The following times assume 75° F (24° C), 50% relative humidity, and a joint ½" (13 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) deep. Skins over: overnight or within 24 hours Full cure: approximately 7 days.
