Siemens Electrical Supplies - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

So likely you have a 3 wire dryer cord and a 3 wire branch circuit. The dryer neutral is bonded to the dryer frame and the third wire of the dryer plug.

There were code exceptions for dryers and stoves that allowed timer motor circuits to use the neutral as a current carrier and frame ground.

To use the GFCI for the dryer you will be required to add an additional conductor (new 3 wire+ground cable) and separate the neutral to frame bond in the dryer and use a 4 wire dryer cord.

Likely you also have some GFCI single pole breakers and replaced ungrounded receptacles with grounded (another code exception) and they work OK. The dryer and stove are different as there is current on the third wire where as on the ungrounded receptacle GFCI there is no 3rd wire.

In breif, the neutral (current carrier conductor) from the dryer must be isolated from the dryer frame and dryer ground (fault current carrier conductor).

Or just leave it the way it was.

Check with local authority with jurisdiction for local code requirements.

Add up all the amps from active breakers. Do they add up over 200? If not, then I suspect a bad main breaker. If they do, then you need a larger service box and or main breaker.

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Check garvin Industries website. they offer a multiple of different lock systems for breakers

It sounds like the breaker at the metering base is tripped. You will need to locate the meter base outside to find the breaker. You can also call your local utility company service provider and report a power outage. they typically will come out free of charge to verify power.

Yes it's correct the Ground Bar connects to the metal box, scrape some paint off to make a good bond, this also requires 4 wires to be correct, green ground, white insulated neutral, black L1 and red L2

Go to any home store and ask them, they will have the breaker or one to use as a replacement

He is correct. I'll not go into the particulars but the fact is, you have two separate circuits connected to the same breaker. Separate the two circuits by installing another 15-Amp breaker. Although I understand your situation, please understand wire gauge and electrical amperage are two different animals. Breakers are rated in Amperage and electrical conductors are sized by wire gauge. That said, the 20 gauge wire you speak of is actually a 12 gauge conductor and the 15 gauge wire as you say is a 14 gauge conductor. Have a good day.

wiring on following link: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

subpanel wiring on following link: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

The breaker has gone bad . You no longer have arc fault protection .

Don't think there is one that small. Are you asking the right question?

3200 watts or 1600 watts on each terminal.

Pull the meter and tighten screws on main breaker http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

Question is vague. Arc fault and ground fault are slightly different.Are you installing arc fault breaker?http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#arc-faulthttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.htmlCode says Maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.Arc fault breaker and GFCI outlet in bathroom?>>> do not connect this way.Do not install 2 fault protections on same circuit.Install the arc fault circuit breaker, and then remove bathroom GFCI, and replace with ordinary outlet, or switch-outlet.How many outlets can be connected to a bathroom GFCI?It depends on total boxes on circuit.Count the boxes. Max 12 boxes per circuit breaker.How many amps can be connected to 15 amp device?15 x 80% = 12 ampsElectricians use 80% rule to calculate safe maximumhttp://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.htmlAdd a comment If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

A shunt is always energized and it has a purpose. The purpose is to bypass some of the load from the main circuit. It would be tripping due to overload

If you meant arch fault with ground fault then no, the two types interfere with each other and trip the breaker as one senses an arch and the other grounding. If you meant ground fault breaker with a GFCI. receptacle, you only need one of the two, either GFCI. breaker or receptacle. and for circuits, you can put up to 12 devices (i.e receptacle, light)assuming they consume 1 amp each. Anything over 12 amps or 80% of the rating on the breaker, it will trip/reset. Or if your talking about wires on a breaker then no more than 2 wires recommended. Try adding a junction box outside the panel if your trying to add other branch circuits or tap off of a receptacle.

reset the GFCI and they will all work. The other two are down stream from the gfci.

Yes.See illustrations.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#arc-faultYou have arc-fault breaker with GFCI protection that also mitigates effect of arcing fault. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Yeah, as long as you run your GFI's on the same circuit then you would probably be good. I say "probably" because I do not know your local codes, but for places I know it would be. Hope I could help.