Siemens Electrical Supplies - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Assuming that no one has been tampering with the wiring, sounds like you have a bad connection in the circuit. You'll have to start pulling lights, switches, and receptacles out to check the connections. It is a time consuming process. The lights and outlets that aren't working are probably downstream from the ones that are working, so start at the last outlet or light (switch) that is working, based on your best guess. Remember that the light switch boxes may have the hot wire too.

You can buy ground busbar at home center or electric supply and install in main box.
Or go back to seller and swap out for new box that is complete.

All neutrals and all ground wires connect to the neutral bus. Where you connect them on that bus is simply a matter of being tidy and leaving room for future work. Of course your physical ground (the one going to the copper rod pounded into the earth) must be connected to this bar too.

You need 240 breaker:
Notice that your 240V breaker is twice as wide as regular 120V breaker.
Notice that both switches are tied together on 240V breaker, making this a double-pole breaker.
For more information about breakers and 120-240V circuits:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Hi, please find it at below : http://www.energy.siemens.com/hq/en/business-portal/

For more information please contact our Customer Support Center:

Phone: +49 (0)180 524 70 00

Fax: +49 (0)180 524 24 71

(Charges depending on provider)
(From the German fixed network € 0.14/min.
and from the German mobile phone networks
max. € 0.42/min.)

Siemens AG
Energy Sector
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91058 Erlangen
Germany

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My name is Bruce

http://www.buildingtechnologies.siemens.com/bt/uk/SiteCollectionDocuments/sbt_internet_uk/residential/instructions/rwb9_i.pdf

Here is the full manual.
If all else fails, try disconnecting power and reconnecting.
Or Reset.
You are on your own with either of the last two suggestions.
Gary

Sounds like a loose connection or overloaded breaker, Please call a Electrician due to high voltage in box

They're actually pretty simple to hook up. First make sure the new breaker is in the off position, then put it in place like a normal breaker the white wire from the breaker goes to the nuetral/ground bar. The white wire that goes with the black wire goes to the breaker and the black wire goes to the breaker like it normally would. ( the white wire usually goes on the bottom terminal of the breaker)

Sounds like a bad breaker to me. I've had alot of problems with them being bad from the factory. Newer product they still haven't worked out all the kinks yet...

The breaker could be the problem. I take it that you have a meter, you can pull off the panel cover and check the line side of the main breaker ( the side from the power company) be VERY carefull as you cannot turn of the power to this side of the breaker!!! Form one wire to the other on the breaker you should have roughly 220 volts. From one on the breaker to the ground/nuetral bar you should have roughly 110 volts. I f you do not have 220 across the two wires on the breaker its the power company you need to call if the 110 voltage is not right you may have a loose ground/nuetral... Just be VERY CAREFULL!!!! Hope this helps you

1. Did you connect the neutral wire (white) from the breaker to the neutral bar?
2. Did you connect the circuit neutral wire (white) to the circuit breaker. If there is a neutral load the load MUST be connected to the breaker no to the panel neutral bar.
3. If this is a 50A load, what is the appliance connected to the circuit? If it is a range, quite often the newer ranges have a ground wire connected to the burner mount. A small current leakage in the element can trip the GFCI. Check each element (with power off) from the wiring terminals to ground with an ohm meter.

You will solve the problem of the breaker tripping but you'll create a fire hazard as the wiring may overheat because of what you are drawing through the line. If you need a higher amp circuit breaker for the load you are creating on the line, you need to make sure the wiring can also handle the extra load. You'd be way better off by spreading the load over several different circuits or installing another line to reduce the load on the line that's tripping the breaker.

Your question has been sitting in the un-answered queue for a while, so let me venture out on the pier and ask ... what are you using this breaker for?

You are correct. Try replacing the single pole breakers with thinner space saver breakers to get more space in the pannel.

What are you wiring?
Does it seem realistic that you need 40 Amp capacity?

40 Amp circuit breaker is usually 240 Volt and it goes to heat pump, double oven, or some heavy equipment. 40 amp breaker uses 8 gauge wire.

You can figure a circuit with the formula V x A = Watt
If your VA is 7500 Watts and voltage is 240, then Amps is 31.25

Hi,
You cane replace that with the 20/40/40/20 as long as the wire size on the two 20 amp poles are at least 12 gauge wire. It is a very good possibility that the wire is #12 wire, but you will have to verify that for sure before installing that breaker.
All of those breakers are getting more difficult to find and I'm sure that the quad is even more difficult.
Hopefully you have the 12 wire and then it will be no problem and you will be in good shape.

heatman101