Sharp Refrigerators - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

0helpful
1answer

I've got shart 4 doors

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE
TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
9/19/2011 10:21:59 AM • Sharp... • Answered on Sep 19, 2011
0helpful
1answer

My freezer (upper) works but my fridge (lower)


My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and are not torn or ripped. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the f


The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some are behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw likeknob in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater (s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can continuity test the defrost heater for continuity or test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater (s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, jumper the wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater (s) and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

bobicehouse_88.jpg Defrost timer


bobicehouse_89.jpg Defrost thermostat


bobicehouse_90.jpg Defrost heater

9/11/2011 1:16:23 PM • Sharp... • Answered on Sep 11, 2011
0helpful
1answer

My refrigerator suddenly lost coldness,

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

[
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9/4/2011 1:18:06 PM • Sharp... • Answered on Sep 04, 2011
0answers

Hi we have a Sharp

Be the first to answer 7/22/2011 1:04:28 AM • Sharp... • Posted on Jul 22, 2011Be the first to answer
0helpful
1answer

The fridge is working whit out stop

If the unit is running all the time and is not freezing everything then open the back fiberboard panel and clean out the coils in the back. Check to make sure the condenser cooling fan is running also. If the compressor is running and the condenser fan is not running there is a problem with the condenser fan. The compressor, condenser and evaporator fans all should be running at the same time. the condenser fan can be stuck... have dry bearings... of simply has failed. Before removing the back cover... touch the chassis were the doors close... it should be warm but not VERY warm to the touch. If it is VERY warm to the touch... for sure you have a problem with the condensor fan.

Since you did not say anything other than the fridge is working whit out stop, I have to assume at this point that the evaporator fan is running in the freezer compartment just fine.

I really need to know:
1. Is there ice in the back of the freezer compartment?
2. Is the evaporator fan running?
3. Is the condenser fan running?
4. Are the condenser coils clean?

One of the above has a problem... you just need to identify which one.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
5/14/2011 6:49:17 AM • Sharp... • Answered on May 14, 2011
0helpful
1answer

I have a sharp sj-wa35m refridgerator and the top

Hi, there

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hope this help in solving the problem.....
5/7/2011 10:14:53 PM • Sharp... • Answered on May 07, 2011
0helpful
1answer

Cooling system dysfunction

Your question isn't clear at all...Try and check the thermostat.
4/19/2011 10:59:25 AM • Sharp... • Answered on Apr 19, 2011
0helpful
1answer

We have a Sharp R&L

Hi, There can be many reasons why your refrigerator is freezingyour food. To see what could be happening and to figure out how to possibly fixyour problem. Take a look at this tip which contains many of the causes andsolutions to fix the problems.

Refrigeratoris Too Cold and Freezing Food
heatman101
4/5/2011 1:12:45 AM • Sharp... • Answered on Apr 05, 2011
0helpful
1answer

What is the best temperature for my Sharp

35 to 40 degrees for the refrigerator, - (minus) 10 to 15 degrees for the freezer, this is in Fahrenheit.
3/19/2011 10:47:39 AM • Sharp... • Answered on Mar 19, 2011
0helpful
1answer

SJ-D20T-SL WITH POWER BUT

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.



If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator
Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

2/22/2011 2:37:51 AM • Sharp... • Answered on Feb 22, 2011
0answers
0helpful
1answer

Compressor is making a terrible

Hi,


Here is a tip that I wrote about the clunking or thumping in refrigerators...

Refrigerator Clunking in back


heatman101

1/30/2011 3:17:59 AM • Sharp... • Answered on Jan 30, 2011
0helpful
1answer

DEFY DOUBLE DOOR FRIDGE MODEL DFF417. It is throwing out an error code OC2.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. This is primarily a South African make and not one we know here in North America. This link should work better where you live and provide some insight. https://www.google.com/search?q=DEFY+DOUBLE+DOOR+FRIDGE+DFF417+error+OC2 ..
4/21/2024 5:36:56 PM • Refrigerators • Answered Yesterday
0helpful
1answer

Russell Hobbs Fridge not working?

Humming is a classic sign that the start / run capacitor for the compressor has failed. Call for service, have it checked for gas and condenser cleaned. ..
4/20/2024 6:23:20 PM • Refrigerators • Answered 2 days ago
0helpful
1answer

How to remove drip tray at back of aeg fridge

On an AEG SANTO 3533, the tray sits on top of the compressor. There is a short metal "tunnel" on top of the compressor. The tray has a plastic clip in the middle which goes through the tunnel and latches up on the other side. To remove, reach to the back of the metal in the middle of the tray, press the plastic clip firmly down, and pull/wiggle the tray backwards horizontally to remove. Needed a torch to see clearly on mine. One of these things that's easy once you've done it once.
4/16/2024 12:09:58 PM • Refrigerators • Answered on Apr 16, 2024
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