Sharp Refrigerators - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Please checked Freezer Fan Motor is working or not.

Checked Freezer Fan is working. Also checked defrost Fuse in freezer. To checked freezer fan is working or not open freezer door press Door Switch and checked Cold air is coming from duct or not.

Checked main PCB mounted back side of Ref. If Main PCB is ok then Fan is defective.

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When the freezer section gets cold and reaches its required cooling temperature, after that the frost on freezer section starts defrosting and the cooling fan in the freezer section blows this cool air from freezer to fridge. But if the defrost cycle does not start then over ice will get collected on freezer ventilations and that will block the air passing section from freezer to fridge, so the freezer gets cool but fridge section does not cool.Its defrost problem. Try manual defrost by unplugging the refrigerator from main power outlet for 4 hours then reconnect it and check, if the same problem is noticed again,. If yes then its defrost board problem. The defrost board located in the back of fridge section. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com or from online sears part site. ------------- Thank you.

Replaced Relay & Overload protector. after replacing same problem it could be compressor defective.

Cooling is proper. If cooling is proper then drain line to be cleaned.

All door is not properly closed.

Checked Damper which is fitted in ref compartment.

For high cooling in ref compartment adjust button to right.

Open Freezer Door Press Door Switch and checked Freezer Fan is working or not. If fan is working then problem in Ref compartment. If not working then replaced Fan. In Ref Compartment checked all duct clod air is coming or not. If not coming then Damper is defective.

Go to link for parts

First try adjusting the thermostat inside the refrigerator to a lower number. If this does not work, you have lost some refrigerant from the system, due to a leak. The system would then need more refrigerant installed to correct the freezing problem and repair the leak.

You have a malfunction of the defrost system. Locate the defrost time and advance the time until you hear a click. wait to see if defrost occurs. if it does, replace timer. If it does not, you need a tech to further check the internal electrical defrost components. i.e. defrost heater, defrost thermostat

You need to figure out which component in the defrost circuitry is bad. Either defrost element, defrost thermostat or defrost timer/control If the element and thermostat show 0 resistance it's the defrost timer/control board

DID U CHECK UR EVAPORATOR FAN AND LISTEN IF THE NOISE IS COMING FROM IT? COULD BE BROKEN OR IMPEEDED IMPELLER HITTING SOMETHING ON START UP THEN GOING INTO A HUM?

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"

Hi,at the back of the fridge there is useuly a drain hole if its blocked then instead of the water going out of the back of the fridge its staying in the fridge,if there is one just get a peice of wire and push down hole to remove any blockidge,also what can couse itis if your food in the fridge is tuching the back off the fridge wall then the water runs down the food inside the fridge instead off going down the drain hole. hope this was some help,all the best.