Samsung Dryers - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I have the same problem with my Samsung electric dryer DV339AEG/XAC. It stuck at 1min cooling forever even though the clothes were completely dried.

I solved the problem after researching online. The heating coil inside the heating element was touching the metal casing. The ceramic insulation was not holding the coil in place in one of the sections, and the coil touched the casing at that point.

I repositioned the coil to allow better separation which essentially moved the coil further away from the casing. Once that's done, the dryer can count down passed the 1 min mark and automatically end the drying cycle, as expected.

No need to change PCB, or humidity sensor, etc.

I tested it before and after the repair using an ohm meter. The resistance across the terminals of the heating element should be approx 10 ohms but no connectivity to the casing. Before the repair, it was reading 5 ohms between 1 of the terminals and the casing. Same reading for the other terminal. Once fixed, neither terminal registered any reading on the ohm meter with the casing, the way it should be.

Make sure you unplugged the dryer from wall outlet before servicing it. A certified repairman should know what I was talking about.

Good luck.

Check your vent who much air go out, your vent is 4 inch or small , need 4 inch vent with flapper open

ELECTRICDryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Checkyour venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuityit should showOHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defectiveor has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter(VOM)set to the RX1 scaleat 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200)ohms.If the reading is higherohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,OR?you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposedto be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to createafire but ifthe motor is not running,andthe heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In somedryer'sthecontrol panel relies on athermistorrather than aCYCLING thermostatto regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when thethermistorindicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drumthis is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor.( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shutdown early and clothesare still wet. Test with a meterat room temperatureand it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run timein the automatic moisture sensing cyclebut it will not affect the heatingof the dryer or the timed cycle.Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!!AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

Most dryers have a belt motor switch, when the belt breaks or is removed, the idler pulley has been removed or replaced then the switch will shut motor power off. Check for spring tension in idler pulley. also check power cord terminal block for voltage at the prongs. you may also have a blown thermal fuse check it .. usually located on blower. see pics

Check heater element has not shorted to frame. Please comment here with results.

Bad heating element or thermal fuse

replace the burner unit

That's three things .......

Faulty door switch, Open dryer door, see if light comes on inside the dryer. If it does the door switch is good. If it doesn’t try resetting the breaker. *( dryer bulbs burn out) you may want to replace the bulb if light doesn’t come on before proceeding forward)
The start switch is another cause. You will have to unplug the dryer to check continuity.
A broken drum belt.
Turn timer on a cycle and listen for it making a ticking sound. You should as the timer is the least likely to fail, from my experience.

The most likely issue with contacts in the drive motor. Youtube has videos on disassembly of the Samsung dryer. Unfortunately, the contact block does not have a replacement kit so the motor has to be replaced unless you have someone with electrical knowledge to repair contact. In some cases, contacts can be repaired with common knowledge but can't know how long the repair lasts. So far mine has been over 6 months. (the actual contact had fallen of the contact arm and I was able to brad it back in place).

Hi. Last night I went to check a dryer with the same problem. It turned out to be just a screen that the the wall vent has. It was completely plugged with lint. You may want to check that and make sure there's complete flow all the way to the outside of the house.

Check the vent that leads outside

Check for an obstruction in the vent. Vacuum and clean out the vent. If this is clear, check the thermistor located by the exhaust vent.

i don't know. my dryer has 2 buttons. one turns on the display and then i have to choose a bunch of variables. there is another button i use for start or stop. my dryer will stop when i open the door but it holds my chosen program's variables so i can add or remove items, i can then close the door and restart it. this information may be of interest.

Check the timer which is being set and also the adjustment of the dryer which might be loose n still rotates.

Have you tried unplugging it for a minute or so?

You'll need to quote the actual model number of the dryer, so that any specific information can be found. Samsung make a bunch of different gas dryers.

I can't find anything online about error code CL9. Even the owner's manual does not list that error code.


https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/dv48j7700ewa202-samsung-parts-manual

What is the Samsung Dryer model number? Check your manual for fault codes. For any codes not listed in your manual, call 1-800-726-7864 (1-800-SAMSUNG)

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