Rustoleum Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

You're probably already done with your project by now, but you should wait at least 24 hours, lightly sand, and wipe surface with acetone and a microfiber towel before applying a second coat.

Pull the nozzle straight up and out. Grab a nozzle from another can that looks to be the same and try that one. You may have to try multiple nozzles. You can also buy nozzles on ebay, but they are usually more than the price of the can. If this doesn't work, then the can may be faulty, or if very old (many years) it may no longer have pressure even though there's still paint inside. Another thing to check is if the ball inside rattles when you shake the can. If it doesn't, the paint might be hardened in the can. Remember next time you finish painting to wipe off the nozzle, turn the can upside down and spray until almost no more paint is seen.

either defective sprayer or no propellant either return or try different spray tip

the product data sheets states that: PAINTING If surfaces are to be painted in the future, remove Rust Inhibitor from the surface with a solvent such as acetone or mineral spirits prior to painting.

Usually when you have cracking on your windows, there's several variables including sunlight. One of the biggest problems is using the incorrect primer or a cheap paint. Contrary to what many believe, a primer that dries extremely hard is not ideal for exterior surfaces. Wood expands and contracts with heat, cold and moisture. A high quality latex primer, topped with a high quality exterior latex paint will give you the best results. It allows for flexibility but offers great protection. Some prefer an oil/alkyd based primer. This is fine as long as it's a slow drying primer. The quick drying primers have hardeners in them that don't flex well. Be sure to remove any loose and flaking paint before you prime them. There are places where you can cut corners with painting. I wouldn't do it on exterior paint. One last thing to be aware of- be sure it's not lead paint you're working with. That changes everything.

make sure you prime the rubber first.....ask the manufacturer (website), or local paint store manager. Good luck Neil

Repainting without adequate drying time will cause this. Make sure paint is dry. Use 180 grit sandpaper in swirling pattern to sand down the problem areas, idea is to feather edge the paint so you don't feel and ridges between the transition layers when you sweep your hand over them. Then prime the bare metal, then repaint entire door for best results.

If latex based paint was used, most of the time it is, spray the area with warm water then use a flat scraper to remove.. It is very messy when doing a large area. Cover as many surfaces as you can to protect. Try a small area in a corner first to see how it will work, if it works fine then do the whole wall.

Ensure the surface is clean AND wax free.