Russell Hobbs Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Question edited for clarity, spelling and typos. Question moved from Cameras Category. 72 page manual is here

Russell hobbs RHEM30G Manuals - ManualsLib

https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Microwave Oven Manuals and User Guides for Russell Hobbs RHEM30G. We have 1 Russell Hobbs RHEM30G manual available for free PDF download: Instructions And Warranty ... ..

Hope this helps.... https://www.realhomes.com/reviews/russell-hobbs-sous-vide-slow-cooker-review

This link might work better for you. This is not a North American brand where we are. https://www.google.com/search?q=Russell+Hobbs+fridge+freezer.+E5+error ..

You will need to first shock that kettle first bold hot water then remove it and replace with very cold or ice water. The smell like plastic is brought by the Plastic which over heats and somehow weakens to a point of melting thus releasing a smell into your water, Shocking the kettle would help if not then you will need to buy another kettle as that one might not be original or just wasn't tested for regularities and standards.

It may not have one if they only made one batch of them. If it does have one it will be on that sticker. Is it near the mains lead? The other possibility is that there is another sticker inside with serial number and inspector stamp.

Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.

The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.

My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues

calcium build up clean with vinegar

There is a non return valve in the base. Mine was held open by a small bit of coffee bean, it is a full strip down with security screw drivers available to buy or grind up on a DIY grinding machine, not complicated but designed deliberately to put the non DIY'ers off & buy a new one

need to replace this fuse if any one could advise of an alternate fuse

It is a 'pop up toaster'. It should turn off the heat rather than 'reducing' it and pop up. The reviews mention the same. Time for a new one. https://www.google.com/search?q=russell+hobbs+RHT302+burn+toast ..

Sometimes it is a seized shaft, does the blade turn by hand? It could be the motor has failed, or the start capacitor on the motor. It could be the electronics. There's a safety lock built into the handle of the jug. If the jug cover doesn't key into the lock properly, the motor base won't start. https://www.google.com/search?q=Russell+Hobbs+RHB315+Blender+not+working ..

They are pretty much a disposable item when they fail. You could try repairing with epoxy putty. Some bases can be screwed a bit tighter. https://www.google.com/search?q=KETTLE+MOD+18941 Manual

RUSSELL HOBBS 18941

and regarding kettle leaks https://www.google.com/search?q=KETTLE+MOD+18941+leak+at+base ..

Question edited for clarity and typo. Question moved from Cars and Trucks with a guess at model. A lever that won't stay down is usually an indication that the element has failed on that side. You can buy replacement cassette units, which is the whole of the inside, but they don't make them easy to change because all the wires are crimped to the connectors. The handles pull off, and the easiest way to remove them is to put a dinner knife under both edges and twist the knife which ejects them evenly. There are probably 4 screws in the base, but they may be hidden by feet. It really is easier just to buy another.

Turn it over and look for screws under the feet. In reality, modern kettles are a disposable commodity.

Usual culprit is dry capacitors.

We too have a CP1, we need to find parts for a full restoration, after 50 years of service (it too was a wedding present to my parents in 1967) mum left it on, it boiled dry. I've messaged Russell Hobbs, but in case they can't help, anyone know a vintage parts source?

To disassemble the Russell Hobbs 15081 steam glide iron, you have to remove the two hidden screws on the handle. To locate the first screw remove the two adjacent blue buttons which are each held in with two hidden clips front and rear, so lever out with small screwdriver or similar. The second hidden screw is under the pivots of the water inlet lid.(I broke one of the plastic pivots but no big deal). Then using a thin blade, separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half of the handle. A bit of force is needed as there are more plastic clips. I started from the rear. Once the top half the handle is removed, other screws become visible, so teardown is not hard, just note which screws go where, as they are different lengths. My problem was that some of the screws/bolts were so corroded I needed to drill them out. The thermostat was also corroded, which probably explained why the thermal fuse had blown. The element was fine.

What’s the model number

Hi there... firstly is this blender a USA or UK model and do you have a Multimeter handy? if you can remove the fuse from the plug (UK only) and test t through diode mode on a multimeter or Continuity test across the fuse terminals... if it beeps the fuse is good if nothing the fuse is blown we can move on from there