Ridgid Air Tools & Compressors - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

piston kit

make sure its lubed real good and use a board at top of cyl and hit it in with hammer it will go in

tighten all the way the side that flaps should be flush to head

It seems like the compressor head is not pumping air. No air pressure at all on gages at all? No air leaks? disconnect the compressor head (t- joint) and varify air is or is not being pumped. Compressor air inlet filter section, you can also varify that air is being sucked in to the compressor head there by the pump action.

Check your wiring, Line to line, load to load. Line is power coming in, load is to the motor. Check for packing that should have been removed. Inspect the pressure switch contacts to make sure they open at desired psi and adjust as necessary. A nut or screw pushing on a spring adjusts tank psi. Loose unloaded spring is less pressure, tight compressed spring is more pressure before cut off..

If it's gunked up with tar, I would spray WD40 to clean it up. Silicon spray is a good lubricant for maintenance of certain tools

I would first make sure there is power going to it, switch it on, tap on the pressure/power/control switch, open it up and visual inspection of the contacts to varify the contacts are closed or on. Look for a reset button, the electric motor may have on on its end bell. Use a voltage tester as needed, caution, electricity may cause injury and even *****.

Requires 120VAC to start - will not start with an extension cord unless heavy duty cord is used due to voltage drop and high starting current demand of compressor motor.

You don't say how old this unit is. I had an older one and it had a small rust hole in it's tank. Had to get rid of it because the tank was rusted bad on the inside. Also check all the lines as they could be leaking as well. Also the one I have now leaked air because the compressor was low on oil. I got compressor oil and its ok now. Do not over fill as it will blow oil all over.

This unit likely needs oiling +/or O-rings. See the link below and enter your model number to get a complete parts breakdown diagram. Focus on the o-rings for the main plunger assembly.

Dan

Link: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ridgid-parts-c-7929.html?gclid=CJj0yNXm0qMCFZxo5Qod9QMmug

Is there a reset button on the compressor?

there is a check valve at the bottom of the one gallon tank, the spring is corroded and collapsed. air is passing the valve and getting to the top of the piston head causing the piston not to move. sometimes you can reseat the valve seal if the spring is good by putting the seal metal rod in a small drill and turning it on the seat a dozen turns this cleans the seat a makes it seat better. the third fix is a bad reset switch. some times a bad capacitor is the problem.try I known good one . good luck , lee

if safety is jamming, its either bent or the pin that keeps it in place is missing/broken, you can find the pin right in front of the trigger. now as far as the nails jamming could be a few things. 1. wrong nails 2.right nail but may have gotten a defective batch 3. bucket that holds nails is adjusted to wrong size. 4.nails have been dropped/ squished and coil is not round anymore 5. nose is very worn and two nails are trying to come out at a time 6. driver is worn/broken and is trying to push out two nails at one time

Make sure that you have the right oil in it, you can damage the compressor if you are using standard motor oil and that will also cause it not to fill up, check the belt as well, it may be slipping when it combatting pressure Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tony_a41fa0b801734e2f

Have you checked the regulator setting? If you tighten the regulator down to the lowest setting and let it set for 30 minutes this may well re seat the valve face. So 1. Tighten the regulator to as tight as you can NO TOOLS just by hand. Let the unit set for 30 minutes. Unccrew the regulator know to the highest value. 2. Fire up the unit and test.You may be joyously surprised. Otherwise it's likely a leak that only opens above 40 psi. If that is the case then you can let the unit run to load at 40 psi. Then with 1/4 cup of dawn dish detergent and 1/2 cup of warm water mixed together. Disconnect the unit from power. Mix the soap and water then pour over the joints of the unit and the drain spigot. The Drain spigot can sometimes become blocked partially open when a flake of rust becomes lodged at the valve face after draining. If so you will find the leak when the soap hit the spigot. Lots of bubbles indicated leak.Hope this helps. I have seen issues at the reed valve on the compressor where one or two of the screws that hold the reed valve to the cylinder head beome loose. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_28069c9efb56199d

FYI The fact that you've managed to flip a nail in the nose can suggest a nail that's too short. Rule of thumb is that framing tools use from 50mm (2") up.

Hi Johnny, First thing to do is make sure that the tool cannot fire any nails. so remove the airline or, if it's a gas powered (Fuel Cell) tool remove the battery and fuel cell. If you can, try and remove any of the nail that you can. Then CAREFULLY try and push the driver back into the cylinder. This may take some time. Sometimes we end up having to strip the tool down to remove the magazine, this will allow better access to the stuck nail. So far, I've never been stuck doing this but.....

replace seals.