Riccar Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Riccar uses an external thermal reset which is more reliable than most brands which use a thermal reset built into the motor. On your Riccar it will be on the back on the bottom left. It is a little tiny button that you will hear "click" when you push on it if it has been popped. If not it will not push in and you won't hear the click. The older models did not all have a reset button. If you have to keep pushing the reset it means that most likely you have a clog somewhere or the bag is full. It's rare but occasionally a thermal reset button may go bad and need replaced. https://www.google.com/search?q=Riccar+Gem+R-4+thermal+fuse ..

https://www.google.com/search?q=Riccar+2400&oq=Riccar+2400&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I am also looking for a manual for a Riccar Reliant 53 sewing machine - does anyone have one? Thanks

Try tweezers!

Link below to company with some info and contact info https://www.riccar.com/customer-support One place it says if your vacuum has a thermal overload reset see owners manual if vacuum will not start. It also says make sure hose is not plugged and filter and bag are good. Manual below has a troubleshooting guide http://media.riccar.com/manuals/RSQ1_OM1706.pdf https://az589519.vo.msecnd.net/productdocuments/Riccar_RSQ1_supraquick.pdf

It needs more oil on the reverse mechanism (inside the machine)

Actual knob may be stripped. There is a little set screw on the knob. Use a small flat blade screwdriver & try to tighten it.

We know we can buy a manual you greedy people. Thought this was where people help with advice. The machine don’t even cost $60 why would someone buy a manual for that or get “pro” advice for that? It would be cheaper to go buy another used machine.

Either the cord is bad or the reset button has tripped. It could also be a bad hose or switch. Canisters are harder to diagnose because the electricity for the power nozzle runs from the canister to the power nozzle.

I usually just break them off. The new one will literally pop on. Don't forget to take of the hubcap and put it on the new wheel.

I can’t really help with the bag issue because I’ve never heard of that before. But my guess is that the bag isn’t breathing properly or is overly full. If the vacuum sounds louder it’s possibly because the fan is off balance and/or the brush could be bad. To test this turn both switches on and listen is the vacuum sounds normal then we know it’s not the bypass motor. If however you put the handle back and the vacuum is loud it’s probably the fan in the direct air motor. You can also take the brush out and do the same test to see if the loud noise is coming from the brush. If you take the brush out and run both motors and they sound fine, you know the problem is in the brush. Hopefully that helps.

The 500 model is pretty old. It could be a bad cord, switch or a loose wire,

When writing emails, I often ended it with "thank you in advance". Even more, I used to have it in my signature for a certain time (mea culpa). However, recently I've been told that it is not appropriate or even rude. I checked on the Web and found some links (1), (2) that confirm this point. There's also a discussion at ELU on this matter. Instead of "thank you in advance", they usually suggest something like "I appreciate any help that you can provide" or "I will be grateful if you can..." OTOH, in my native language there are two distinct types of appreciation: appreciation "after" is merely like English "thank you", but appreciation "before" can be translated something like "let the divine providence be with you" or "...give you power (to do what I'm asking)", or, simply speaking (not very accurate, though), "bless you (to do what I'm asking)". I'm trying to combine both things, i.e. avoid using "thank you in advance" and preserve the meaning of above. Is it possible?

1. "Thank you ... "
2. "Thank you for any help you can offer ... "
3. "Gratefully, [your name] ... "
4. "Thanks for considering this ... "
5. "In any case, thanks for your help ... "
6. "Many thanks ... "
7. "Let me know if this isn't feasible by [date], and I'll see what I can do ... "
8. "I hope this is possible ... "
9. "Really appreciate your time here ... "
10. "In the meantime, thanks for your time ... "
11. "Thank you for doing X ... "
12. "Looking forward to [discussing the results, talking about what you find, learning more about X] ... "
13. "I'd be grateful if you could finish X by [date] ... "
14. "You're the best ... "
15. "Thanks again ... "
16. "Thank you for your understanding ... "
17. "I appreciate your extra time here ... "
18. "I know your time is valuable and I appreciate your attention ... "
19. "Let me know if I can help ... "

Thank you in advance for your consideration.

Whether you're writing to a colleague or direct report, use these "thanks in advance" alternatives to thank them for their consideration. 1. "Thank you ... " For a simple, gracious close that won't offend anyone, sign off with "Thank you." 2. "Thank you for any help you can offer ... " Show appreciation for your recipient's time and energy with this ending. It translates to "Even if you can't help, I appreciate your effort." 3. "Gratefully, [your name] ... " Use this alternative when your ask is slightly out-of-the-ordinary: You're giving the person less time than ideal, increasing the scope of your original request, or pulling them into a project they're not a part of. 4. "Thanks for considering this ... " With this sign-off, you say, "Hey, it means something you're even thinking of doing this." Revealing a little humility can help you win the other person to your cause. 5. "In any case, thanks for your help ... " After you've made your request, end with this tactful line. You're essentially telling the other person, "Whether you agree or not, I value your consideration." 6. "Many thanks ... " This variation on the classic "thank you" is a bit more formal, making it feel more authentic. Below is a sample email using one of these alternatives. It clearly states the request, and thanks the recipient for their consideration. Hi Tim, We're holding a holiday fundraiser for the children's hospital on December 5th. Our team will be managing the bake sale and I still need volunteers to cover a few more shifts at the bake sale table. If you're available on December 5th from 5:30 PM to 600 PM or 6:00 PM to 6:30 PM, your help would be much appreciated. I've attached the sign-up form below where you can pick your shift. Thank you for any help you can offer. -- Peter

Thank you in advance for your help.

These "thank you in advance" alternatives can be used when you're requesting help or previously requested assistance from the recipient. 7. "Let me know if this isn't feasible by [date], and I'll see what I can do ... " I'd recommend saving this sign-off for a direct report. It's clear your recipient can't really say no to whatever you've asked -- at most, you'll let them negotiate the deadline. And you're suggesting even that option isn't ideal. Why is this better than "Thanks in advance"? Because it's straightforward and direct, while "thanks in advance" feels inauthentic and/or passive-aggressive. 8. "I hope this is possible ... " #8 is an alternative to #7, but for someone who's your peer or superior. It's softer and leaves more room for pushback. 9. "Really appreciate your time here ... " Are you telling, not asking? When the other person doesn't have a choice in the matter, you want to avoid closes that make them sound like they can opt out. This close is a polite but firm way to say "You have to do this" that won't annoy them. 10. "In the meantime, thanks for your time ... " Let your recipient know you recognize their attention. 11. "Thank you for doing X ... " Explicitly acknowledge the help they're providing, whether that's "thanks for meeting with me," "thanks for reviewing this proposal," "thanks for introducing me to so-and-so," or "thanks for answering these questions." 12. "Looking forward to [discussing the results, talking about what you find, learning more about X] ... " When you're asking someone to do some work on your behalf, this close comes in handy. You're showing your interest in the project -- validating that it's worth their effort. 13. "I'd be grateful if you could finish X by [date] ... " Tactfully give the person a timeline with this sign-off. 14. "You're the best ... " When you're emailing a close colleague who's doing you a favor, use this heartfelt closing line. (Just make sure you save it for special occasions, or you'll seem fake.) 15. "Thanks again ... " Did you already thank your recipient once? No harm in reiterating the sentiment. 16. "Thank you for your understanding ... " Sometimes, it's necessary to appeal to your recipient's compassionate side. Maybe you're asking for something you know they're not thrilled about -- or giving them the heads up you can't follow through on their request. They'll have a harder time denying you after you've expressly said thanks for their patience. 17. "I appreciate your extra time here ... " Don't we all just want to be appreciated? Sometimes, all it takes to move someone to action is to let them know you notice them and their efforts and to thank them for spending their time on you. 18. "I know your time is valuable and I appreciate your attention ... " Again, letting your prospect know you realize they're carving out time especially for you is always appreciated. They don't have to help you out, and it's a good idea to recognize that. 19. "Let me know if I can help ... " Is there something you could do to make this ask easier for your prospect? Try to take these actions proactively, and always let them know you're happy to step in and shoulder some of the work. Here's an example email using a "thanks in advance" alternative.

Slide a small screwdriver beside the wheel and rotate it to push up on the axle holding the wheel in place

Your 8955 could be up to 17 or 18 years old. If yours is old or has been heavily used it may have a wiring short somewhere. The screw holding the handle in to the body of the vacuum might be loose which can cause the handle to not full engage the switch. Try wiggling the handle back and forth to see if it causes the power to turn on and off. Tighten the screw holding the handle in. If the nozzle housing is restricted from pivoting freely by wear or dirt or debris the nozzle may not go all the way down when the handle is reclined back into the vacuuming position. Inspect the pivot area closely.

Turn wheel until needle rises as far as it will go, Lubricate that bar inside that goes up and down above the bracket or housing that holds it, Also take note if there is a lower bracket that also needs to be oiled. Make sure you got the bushing around the turning shaft nearest the handwheel, and make sure there is not a thread wrapped around the shaft nearest the handwheel. (Behind the handwheel,)

Hello,

This sounds like it is most likely a belt issue with your Riccar. In order to verify this, turn the vacuum on and turn it over on it's side after making sure that the carpet / floor switch on the top of the roller brush housing is turned to Carpets.

When you turn the vacuum on after changing the switch to carpet mode, does the roller brush spin? The belt controls the the roller brush and makes it spin. When the belt is broken or stretched out, and the brush is not spinning, or stops as soon once it hit carpeting, the brush roller will no longer help pull the vacuum forward. This would explain why the vacuum is very hard to push.

In order to help you the best, I went ahead and took some pictures for you on how to change the belt. The only really tricky part is the clutch actuator arm. If you don't already have a new belt, here's a link for you to a 2 pack of belts for your 8955 on our website:
Riccar 4000 / 8000 Series Upright Belts (2pk)

The model that I took pictures of is actually a model 8650, but this is identical in every way to your 8955 in terms of changing the belt.

What you'll need to have handy for this repair;

- Phillips Head Screw Driver
- Riccar 4000 / 8000 Series Belt
- Riccar 8000 Series Roller Brush With Clutch Assembly (only if the brushes have worn down, not necessary if brushes are still long)

Step 1: Make sure the vacuum cleaner is unplugged, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so the bottom plate is upwards. It's easiest to do on a work bench or counter top.



Step 2: Unscrew the two metal screws on the metal bottom plate with your Phillips head screw driver, and remove the bottom plate from the vacuum cleaner so the belt is completely exposed with the roller brush.

Step 3: Remove the belt guard that sits to the left of the roller brush, this is a metal part that protects any dirt & debris from going over to the belt. Here's a picture of that part being removed;



Step 4: Remove the Rug / Floor actuator arm from the clutch on the right hand side of the roller brush. Simply pull the metal actuator arm to the left of the brush and out of the circle that it sits in. Here's a picture of that;



Step 5: Once you have removed the actuator arm from the clutch, as well as the belt guard, lift straight up on the roller brush and remove the roller brush from the vacuum cleaner:




Step 6: Once you have removed the roller brush, and the old belt from the vacuum cleaner, take a new belt and wrap it around the metal pin in the back of the vacuums agitator housing. Here's a picture of where that pin is located with the belt wrapped around it;




Step 7: Once you have the belt wrapped around the metal pin (this is the shaft to the motor that actually spins the belt), put the other end of the belt through your roller brush;




Step 8: There is a specific way that the roller brush has to be inserted. If the roller brush is not put in properly, this can cause all sorts of problems including the brush not spinning, as well as continuously having to replace belts. You can see on the end cap of the roller brush (the right side where the belt rides) that there are two little teeth that protrude out of the end cap. Here's a picture of how it looks:



Step 9: With the roller brush inserted through the belt, position the two teeth facing downwards. You can see in the vacuum cleaner where the roller brush sits, a little groove inside of the roller brush housing. These two teeth need to straddle that groove. Also make sure that the little ring, or circle that the clutch actuator arm sits into, is facing upwards completely. It should be directly on top of the two teeth. Stretch the belt using the roller brush as leverage down into the agitator housing of the vacuum cleaner, making sure that the two teeth are facing downwards straddling the little groove. After the brush is back into the vacuum cleaner, take the metal actuator arm from the rug / floor switch, and insert it back into the metal ring (or hole) on the roller brush;



Step 10: Replace the metal belt guard that rests to the left of the belt. You'll notice on the belt guard that there are two little 90 degree notches on both sides. These notches need to face towards the belt or to the right.

Step 11: After inserting the belt guard back into the vacuum, turn the vacuum cleaner over so the top of the agitator housing is facing you. Make sure that the rug / floor switch set to the carpet setting again, and then turn the vacuum upside down again so the brush and belt are exposed again.

Step 12: With the vacuum set to the carpet setting, pull the belt forwards to ensure that the brush is spinning freely. If the belts do not spin freely, repeat steps 2-10.



tep 13: The last tricky part can be reinstalling the metal bottom plate. There is a little lip on the front of the vacuum cleaner that the edge of the bottom plate has to slide under for it to be installed properly. A lot of people just install the bottom plate over top of this lip, and this prevents the brushes from hitting the carpet as close as if the bottom plate is correctly installed. It will take away the vacuums cleaning cleaning ability dramatically. Here's a picture of the lip with the bottom plate in the backgroud;

Step 14: Slide the metal bottom plate into the lip on the vacuum cleaner, and fasten the screws back into the bottom plate to secure it. This is the way it will look if the bottom plate is installed the WRONG way.



Here's a picture of the RIGHT way to install the bottom plate:



The Riccar 8955 is great vacuum, and cleans better then most other upright s when it has a new belt on. I hope that this repair solution is helpful to you in fixing your vacuum. If you did, please be sure to click the Thumbs Up Icons in the top right hand corner of the solution. Feel free to request a clarification on the repair if you have any questions. I'm always happy to answer any questions. I hope will consider GoVacuum.com storefront for any Riccar supplies that you may need. We carry all Riccar Vacuum Bags, Filters, Belts, and Parts.

Thank you very much,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

you will need to get the whole base plate look on ebay

The brushes in the motor are worn to the point that they are not working, it is shorting out.