Razor Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

I have exactly the same problem and it started right around the time the "gracious" 90-day warranty period expired..... The battery lights had been on for days, indicating a full charge, but nothing happens when turning the throttle. Battery housing is very cumbersome to open, but I'll try to disconnect the battery next.

http://www.razor.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/DirtQuad_Manual_v.3_12-10.pdf

Did the socket the charger was plugged into actually have 120vac in the socket? Or are you sure the charger is actually working? Is there a short so that the battery is draining as fast or faster than the charger is providing a charge?

Most likely, the last 2 answers are correct. When you charge the battery, does the light on the charger stay red for several hours before turning green? Check the voltage of the 3 batteries after the charger light turns green. It should be 39-40 volts or so no load. Turn the throttle and see if the voltage drops when the relay clicks. You can connect the batteries directly to the motor and it should go full speed if they are good.

I HAVE THE SOLUTION!! No, it's not what you're going to want to hear, but I have it nonetheless. The cheapest and easiest way you're going to fix this issue is by firmly grabbing the scooter, hoisting it directly upwards, clearing the rim and depositing it into your nearest refuse container. This is junk at its finest, brought to you from the worst in value and service, the Razor Company.

I did a little investigation into this problem as I too experienced what everyone that owns a Razor scooter does; it works for about two months, then suddenly the "battery stops holding a charge". You can Google Razor scooter issues and get page after page of this happening, along with more pages of frustrated people learning Razor won't do anything about it. But I digress.. back to the facts..

I need not repeat what I've already posted with regard to the issues surrounding my scooter, purchased Dec. '08 as a Christmas gift and not ridden (midwest snow) until the last month or two tops. So as I posted previously, it stops working and I'm assuming it's the batteries. I call my local Batteries Plus store and they say they can help. Here's where it gets interesting.

I bring in the entire scooter and charger. Let me say that I found the charger included in with my scooter.. "interesting?".. as directly underneath the red/green lights there are Chinese characters instead of English words, thus I never had any idea what these lights indicated. That notwithstanding, the test the charger on the spot and tell me it's working and is (pay attention here) 41 volts of charge. This means nothing to me at the time. I learn that testing the batteries in the scooter will take a couple days and they say they'll call with the results.

Before leaving, one of the CSR's engages me in a conversation about his identical experience with the Razor scooter he got for his kids one year prior. The circumstances mirrored everyone elses: it worked for 2 months, stopped working, he checks the batteries, replaces them, still doesn't work, he pitches it. Hearing this isn't making me feel any better.

So the weekend passes and here on Monday I get the call from Steve at Batteries Plus. Here's what he finds: There are 2 batteries in the scooter; one is at 60% of its life (this after a mere month of use) and the other is overcharged and 'swollen'. How can this be I wonder? I followed the charging instructions provided with my scooter TO THE LETTER, never leaving it charged for an extended period, etc. Well the answer is simple- the batteries for this scooter are 24 VOLT BATTERIES being charged by a charger that is outputting 41 VOLTS!! ALMOST DOUBLE THE VOLTAGE! It's overcharging the batteries and frying them out.

Steve said he removed and replaced the batteries with 2 brand new fully charged 24 volt batteries and it still didn't work. He surmised the switch that activates the motor, which is run through the charging system, was fried during its last overcharging.

Ergo, the charger included with these scooters is frying the scooters out in a very short period of time. To replace the charger, both batteries, and the switch would be more expensive than just pitching it and buying another brand new one.

This issie is Razor's fault and they should be willing to fix the issues (cue laugh track here). Go to their site and be ready to laugh at yourself for even bothering. Here's what I found. First I click the 'service/repair' tab, then am directed to the 'Razor Service Center Locater' to find the nearest service center to me to have it repaired. I entered my zip code and it said 'Sorry, no results found'. I then try my city/state, and again get 'Sorry, no results found'. Not looking good.

I then begin reading their return policy. It has a warranty that's good for 90 days from the DATE OF PURCHASE. Naturally, in my case I bought it in Dec. but since there was snow on the ground it was useless until spring; I was screwed before it even was given it's first charge. However, for the regular customer they'll find that even so, it's right at about the 2nd/3rd month when this thing takes it's final ride and as such, and through no fault of your own, your're totally screwed.

There are enough complaints on this scooter on the web that at minimum contacting the BBB is in order, and might I suggest a potential class-action lawsuit? This scooter retails still at $149, and like most of you I don't have $149 to throw in the trash every couple of months only to go and repurchase another "disposable" scooter.

So there it is. Not only are the batteries being overcharged and shot, but collateral damage to the electrical system is being done which is frying the switch that engages the motor and other things. Have your charger checked at your local Battery Plus (no charge) and you'll see they are putting out a defective product, and based on several hits on the internet they are clearly aware of it and do not care.

Bulging battery means u have to replace it, the plates started to oxidize and pushes the everything out!

The scooter uses batteries specifically designed for deep discharge applications. If your new batteries are not lasting then they may only be suitable for standby or backup type applications like for your house alarm system or garage door opener when the mains power goes out.

Your scooter is dying the slow death that all Razor scooter owners are suffering. See my related post on this. Anyway, here's the deal..

I HAVE THE SOLUTION!! No, it's not what you're going to want to hear, but I have it nonetheless. The cheapest and easiest way you're going to fix this issue is by firmly grabbing the scooter, hoisting it directly upwards, clearing the rim and depositing it into your nearest refuse container. This is junk at its finest, brought to you from the worst in value and service, the Razor Company.

I did a little investigation into this problem as I too experienced what everyone that owns a Razor scooter does; it works for about two months, then suddenly the "battery stops holding a charge". You can Google Razor scooter issues and get page after page of this happening, along with more pages of frustrated people learning Razor won't do anything about it. But I digress.. back to the facts..

I need not repeat what I've already posted with regard to the issues surrounding my scooter, purchased Dec. '08 as a Christmas gift and not ridden (midwest snow) until the last month or two tops. So as I posted previously, it stops working and I'm assuming it's the batteries. I call my local Batteries Plus store and they say they can help. Here's where it gets interesting.

I bring in the entire scooter and charger. Let me say that I found the charger included in with my scooter.. "interesting?".. as directly underneath the red/green lights there are Chinese characters instead of English words, thus I never had any idea what these lights indicated. That notwithstanding, the test the charger on the spot and tell me it's working and is (pay attention here) 41 volts of charge. This means nothing to me at the time. I learn that testing the batteries in the scooter will take a couple days and they say they'll call with the results.

Before leaving, one of the CSR's engages me in a conversation about his identical experience with the Razor scooter he got for his kids one year prior. The circumstances mirrored everyone elses: it worked for 2 months, stopped working, he checks the batteries, replaces them, still doesn't work, he pitches it. Hearing this isn't making me feel any better.

So the weekend passes and here on Monday I get the call from Steve at Batteries Plus. Here's what he finds: There are 2 batteries in the scooter; one is at 60% of its life (this after a mere month of use) and the other is overcharged and 'swollen'. How can this be I wonder? I followed the charging instructions provided with my scooter TO THE LETTER, never leaving it charged for an extended period, etc. Well the answer is simple- the batteries for this scooter are 24 VOLT BATTERIES being charged by a charger that is outputting 41 VOLTS!! ALMOST DOUBLE THE VOLTAGE! It's overcharging the batteries and frying them out.

Steve said he removed and replaced the batteries with 2 brand new fully charged 24 volt batteries and it still didn't work. He surmised the switch that activates the motor, which is run through the charging system, was fried during its last overcharging.

Ergo, the charger included with these scooters is frying the scooters out in a very short period of time. To replace the charger, both batteries, and the switch would be more expensive than just pitching it and buying another brand new one.

This issie is Razor's fault and they should be willing to fix the issues (cue laugh track here). Go to their site and be ready to laugh at yourself for even bothering. Here's what I found. First I click the 'service/repair' tab, then am directed to the 'Razor Service Center Locater' to find the nearest service center to me to have it repaired. I entered my zip code and it said 'Sorry, no results found'. I then try my city/state, and again get 'Sorry, no results found'. Not looking good.

I then begin reading their return policy. It has a warranty that's good for 90 days from the DATE OF PURCHASE. Naturally, in my case I bought it in Dec. but since there was snow on the ground it was useless until spring; I was screwed before it even was given it's first charge. However, for the regular customer they'll find that even so, it's right at about the 2nd/3rd month when this thing takes it's final ride and as such, and through no fault of your own, your're totally screwed.

There are enough complaints on this scooter on the web that at minimum contacting the BBB is in order, and might I suggest a potential class-action lawsuit? This scooter retails still at $149, and like most of you I don't have $149 to throw in the trash every couple of months only to go and repurchase another "disposable" scooter.

So there it is. Not only are the batteries being overcharged and shot, but collateral damage to the electrical system is being done which is frying the switch that engages the motor and other things. Have your charger checked at your local Battery Plus (no charge) and you'll see they are putting out a defective product, and based on several hits on the internet they are clearly aware of it and do not care.

No. We get batteries from a local supplier and they work just as well. are by far the most common problem with razors because people dont keep them charged.

I purchased my Batteries on E-Bay. Make sure the Batteries they offer come with a Square Trader Warranty. Purchased from Roanoke, Virginia ID hcbaker

The Switch can be almost any but the lighted switch has to be a compatible 24vdc lighted switch. As seen on this web page. SWT-105 Razor E100 and E125 Electric Scooter Parts ElectricScooterParts com

Could be the battery. Put the Scooter on a block so the rear tire is raised. Remove the standing plate to reveal the battery compartment. Charge the Unit completely 1. Using a multimeter measure the voltage across the batteries. If the voltage is below 20 volts batteries are dead - Replace batteries. 2. Now for a running test. Turn the throttle and spin the rear tire to preform a kick start. Still measuring the voltage. If the voltage is Below 20 volts or if the voltage drops quickly batteries are dead - Replace batteries. 3. If the voltage is remaining around 24 volts for a long period - then you could have connector problems, clean and tighten all connectors. I use a fiberglass electronic cleaning brush, as contact cleaners leave residue that interfere with electrical connections. The control module is simple and can be replaced with only a 24 volt relay without the kick start feature or Brake. If you want the brake then you can use two 24 volt relays still no Kick Start. For those of you who know electrical, below is circuits I developed to replace the controller. This diagram will also give you a better understanding on the Razor circuit. NOTE : This is not a schematic diagram of the Razor E100 Control Module. I designed this circuit. for my Great Nephew's Scooter. 1. The Brake is a normally closed switch that opens when you squeeze the Brake handle. 2. The throttle is two normally open switches that close when you turn the throttle. 3. The Kick Start circuit is described in the Diagram below. 4. The resistors values may need to be tweaked for best performance.

The E100 is a Kick Start scooter, the Rear Wheel has to be Spun for it to start. This scooter will not start from a motionless position. Could be the battery. Put the Scooter on a block so the rear tire is raised. Remove the standing plate to reveal the battery compartment. Charge the Unit completely 1. Using a multimeter measure the voltage across the batteries. If the voltage is below 20 volts batteries are dead - Replace batteries. 2. Now for a running test. Turn the throttle and spin the rear tire to preform a kick start. Still measuring the voltage. If the voltage is Below 20 volts or if the voltage drops quickly batteries are dead - Replace batteries. 3. If the voltage is remaining around 24 volts for a long period - then you could have connector problems, clean and tighten all connectors. I use a fiberglass electronic cleaning brush, as contact cleaners leave residue that interfere with electrical connections. See my other posts for E100

Find out whether it is 6 volts or 12 volts and there should be two wires that feed the motor either cut or splice and attach another set of wires with fuse in the line (simular to jumper cables) raise the back tire so it does not touch the ground and place jump wires to the negative and positive of the battery.
If the motor moves in either direction without blowing the fuse the motor is good if not then its bad. Uses the same amperage fuse

replace the fuse with a bulb of the same voltage rating like 12v bulb it will take the spikes but it might allow her to over load it too an motor git warm then the thermalfuse might kick in . worn out motors an batteries do this stuff