Randell Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

HI welcome to fixya The major mgf. use a pan that the compessor will set in the heat from it will dry up the pan. You can add vinegar to tray to kill any smells. I hope this helps.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
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This is the FREE forum of the Fixya web site, we do offer services called premium questions if you desire but the forum you posted this question on is 100% free!

Hello Roytorboli,

I understand that your make table is not cooling the bottom. However the rail is cooling just fine.

The rail is cooling because it sets above the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil fan is not working you should be able to here it running when one of the bottom doors are open. The fan is located in the bottom compartment and has to be accessed threw there. You will take the front panel of the back plate off. One you locate the fan remove the wires and label and go to your local hardware store to purchase. Be sure to take the old one so that they can match it up.

Thank you for choosing FixYa.com

Justin

Examine the NEW door seal, on the back of the seal, not the flat magnetic face you should see an arrow head shape. If this is correct then

FIRST READ ALL OF THIS

1. Switch off and unplug the fridge. Clean around the old seal with a toothbrush and hot soapy water, get right into where the old seal meets the door, inside and outside to remove all the old grime etc. This can hold the seal in quite tightly.
2. Gently pull at one of the corners, it helps if the seal is warm, eventually you should get a corner come free, then steadily work your way along the edge of the seal all the way round until it comes off.
3. Again get in there with the old toothbrush and hot soapy water and get the groove clean, it will make fitting the new seal easier.
4. This is the difficult bit (you are going to get sore thumbs) Steadily push one top corner of the arrowhead into the groove, if possible get someone else to hold it there, then push the next top corner into the groove, its really inportant to get the corners in first.
5. Work from one corner towards the other and stop at the middle.
6. Go to the other corner and again work towards the middle, try not to stretch the seal.
7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 for each ot the other 3 sides
8. Go back to the corners and with a flat wooden popsicle (lollipop) stick or similar (nothing sharp or you will wreck the seal) check from the outside that the arrowhead is completely seated.
9. Work all around the seal with your thumb pushing the seal firmly into the slot, then go gently around the outside and inside edges as in 8
10. Close the door, you may see that the seal is not completely flat but it will settle over the next day or so.#
11. Plug in and switch on the fridge.
12.Wash and dry your hands and open a beer, you earned it

Best of luck
Gordon

is it running?

Either the freezer needs to be defrosted or it went into defrost and didnt come out. So most likely your defrost system has failed. A good way to check this will be to unplug freezer for about a day or 2, and let it defrost manually. Should begin working properlt again when plugged back in . The problem will return suggesting your defrosy system has failed.
What is the make and mod of the freezer so i can tell you how to access it.

http://www.randell.com/assets/docs/randell/Custom_OM_DPM.pdf
go to this web site and check out the manual. It has some general info that can get you started on narrowing down just what is happening.
If it has been filled with freon 2x, there is an issue. Either it has a leak and it has not been found yet, or the amount of freon in the system is incorrect.
Usually, adding a timer is for defrosting purposes. Is there a frosting up issue?
It could be a thermostat issue but it is not set by the PSI, but by actual temperature. If it is a control that you have to set the PSI, an experienced refrigeration tech should know what to set it at.
Let me know if I can be of any further help.

This unit uses Thermostat/Solenoid Valve Combination's to control the temperature

1. Rail 2. Bottom Storage

The way it works is the thermostat senses the need for cooling and energizes the solenoid valve. This allows refrigerant flow which cools the area it is controlling. Once the thermostat is satisfied the contacts open and the solenoid is de-energized closing the valve. If the solenoid is bad, the valve remains closed, no refrigerant flow, warm unit.

Test the solenoid coil (two wires) to see if voltage is present either with a volt meter, or remove the coil off the valve and place a screwdriver (insulated) through the coil hole and you should feel the pull like an electro-magnet (what a coil is).

Your system uses R-134a refrigerant.

If the compressor is running but it's not cooling, you probably have a refrigerant leak or possibly a restriction in your evaporator.

Unfortunately, refrigerant leaks are not DIY friendly, so my advise would be to call a competent repairman.

hello if appliance out of warranty check this video out ">

During the cooling/freezing cycle condensation forms, this drips into a pan and then is evaporated by a heating element.
One of two things could be wrong.....
Your drip pan is clogged
or
your evaporator unit is bad

Hope this helps

to do it right, you gotta get technical. Need to know the BTU rating of the evap coil. Then match the compressor/ condenser coil and the expansion device to the same BTU rating. Can prove to be somewhat expensive. Your unit probably has a 3/4 h.p. compressor. This is pretty big for a 2 door unit. Probably too big, but again, gotta get the technical on all that stuff.

That should be The defrost termination. What controls the defrost is a defrost clock. It shows the time of day and the center will turn to start or terminate the defrost. Clock should be in a rectangular box.

It can be done but someone would have to do their homework. They have to know the BTU rating of the evap. Then match the compressor and expansion device to it for the intended temp range. In some cases, the compressor can be used in multiple temp ranges, so you could be lucky and just change the expansion device and possible the temp control, depending on which one you have. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

yes the oil will be your problem and r134a is 25% harder on condensing and you may get a bit of flood back to compressor

DO NOT PUT R134A WITH OUT OIL CHANGE