The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.
The F10 F11 F12 F13 F14 Error Codes indicate that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit. This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board. Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit. You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem. The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug. You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven. Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect. Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms. The resistance chart is shown in the image below.
If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.
You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.
If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code. You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.
Sounds like you have shorted out the ignitor module and you may need to replace it. Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into. Hope this helps.
The magnets on the door hinges and the ones on the inside of the oven must perfectly line up. If having problem getting hinge to fully extend, plug back with wadded up cardboard piece and shift door around until feel pull from magnets. Door should reset itself once magnets connect. My door was installed off center and so the magnets are tilted. When I figured this out, it was a breeze.
These are screws you see. They are oxidized and the slots in the head are probably gone. Best approach is to spray with Pam (or equivalent) cooking oil, then use vise grips to remove the screws.
hi thanks for the question. the part that's causing the problem is the bottom igniter. it lights up, but not hot enough to ignite the gas. replace, the igniter. thanks the appliance doc
To my opinion, the gap you have between door and gasket should not effect ranger's performance.
You will have an access to the hinge by opening ranger's side panel.
If I understand well,it's a new ranger.If so,in case you are insist to fix it, just call for Premiere's service for it.
Good luck !!
