The idle control switch allows the generator to go into idle when there is no demand form the appliances connected. This saves gas and increases the life of the generator. Damage can occur for some appliances like a refrigerator/freezer because the voltage and frequency are not prepared for the load resulting in a low voltage bad startup that will damage the appliance. Suggest that you leave the idle control switch off while any motor/electronic devices are connected.
The throttle control is likely a choke function for starting. These generators are designed for only one running speed to produce the necessary 60 cycles per second and voltage.
The following link is to a Canadian web site that later in the detail report describes the concern of idle control. In addition it provides good insight to the operation and use of portable generators
Hope this helps?
Understanding Portable Generators
The user manual see pages:
http://www.mikestools.com/download/Porter-Cable-Manuals/Porter-Cable-CTE300.pdf
when the trigger for the wand is not pulled , there is a pressure relief valve that bypasses the water in the pump and so there is no pressure until the trigger is pulled again.
with the pump getting hot and not being able to pull the motor to restart, it indicates that that pressure relief valve has jammed ( faulty ) and the pump is running at full pressure all the time
That will heat the pump and stop the engine from restarting
That valve is where I would start looking for a problem
at 120psi way to much pressure your ram is slamming into stop and sticking and spray a carb cleaner or cleaner on ram the some rack of nails have an adhesive on then and it also adds to binding and recoil then lube
Sound like the pressure switch is not working. try ad lower (CCW)
on pressure switch it may be set too high. Bostitch,Porter Cable150 psig is pretty ******* compressor, I like 125 psig. Pressure Switch #DWB-N003307SV. I would look on E bay.
Needs to be rebuilt. You can buy a seal kit from PC that will fix your issue. Then, you might want to check your pressure settings on your compressor (if you dont have a regulator, you will want to buy one and install it), framing guns (and most pneumatic tools) are meant to be operated in the neighborhood of 90-120 psi.. anything more will cause seals to blow.
I also have had this problem and I found that if I hold the unit tightly and squeeze the plastic housing the RPM's will stabilize as the unit warms up. Best fix is to replace the rubber isolators that prevent vibrations from the motor from reaching the plastic housing. The isolators have become hard through age or very cold temperatures. I read somewhere that keeping the sander stored in a warm room can also help because when the rubber is very cold it becomes hard.
The
best way to sand drywall is to use a pole sander (manually). You can
pick them up for about $20.
This particular machine tends to
leave grooves in the drywall compound if you are not familiar with how
to use it.
If you should have any questions about
"Drywall Finishing/Patching", or know someone who does, put your
questions to Category:"Tools- Building & Power- HAND TOOLS" at
FixYa.com
Check the regulator gauge on your air compressor to make sure you have enough air pressure going to your nailer. After replacing my nailer because the driver wouldn't retract, I discovered, when the replacement nailer had the same problem, that I had somehow turned the regulator and decreased the pressure. Now I have two fully operational nailers.
If you haven't gotten it unstuck by now try this: take the air line off so it isn't pressurized take a punch about the same or slightly smaller than the hammer/firing pin/the part that drives the tack, and drive it back to where it clears whatever is jamming it. Clean it, oil it and try again. If it still fails, here is a site that offers parts and kits:http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/portercable/RN175/If you have another source you can try it as well. Good luck.
