Plymouth Vehicle Parts & Accessories - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It's your ignition switch or a loose wire between the switch and the starter relay.

It is a clutch or gearbox issue, obviously, but might be diagnosable with a further explanation of the symptoms. What do you mean when you say lost first gear please? Did you get into the other gears? Was the symptom noted that you revved the engine but the car would not move no matter how much you revved? Was there any crunchingof gears just before the incident/fault? Does the clutch pedal return to it's position if you depress it now. Please add further detail and resubmit the query

you will see a round black ball under your hood with only one or two lines coming out of it. once you found that you can easily fallow it to the intake

Check brake switch under brake pedal

Sounds like the neutral switch was unplugged and it's just forward of the speedo cable.

bad speedometer

go to www.tirerack and enter your info. They will tell you.

is the check engine light on?

On a vehicle of that age I am 99% sure you need a new sending unit. Could be a broken wire also. It is located in the gas tank. This job is best left to a professional unless you have some mechanical skill with antique vehicles. You will need to locate the sender on top of the tank. It will have two wire leads coming off of it. Unhook the leads and connect an ohm meter to the sender. It should have resistance. If it is an open circuit the sender is bad. If it has resistance it is good. Reconnect the wires to the sender. Next you will have to pull the dash board instrument cluster to gain access to the fuel gauge. The gauge will have two wires connected to it also. Unhook them. Connect the ohm meter to the wires and see if you have resistance. If you do you have a bad gauge. If the circuit is open then you have a broken wire between the sender and the gauge.

Hello,
You didn't mention any trouble codes. In 1996 all vehicles manufactured in the U.S were required to install the second generation OBD, also refered to as OBD II, to insure that a standard scanner could be used on all vehicles.

It shouldn't be a fuel problem with everything you've had done.

I don't believe it's an emissions problem, because, although emissions can cause a vehicle to stall it usually gives a bad idle and poor acceleration among other things.
Because you don't mention bad idle, loss of power, or no restart we can safely say it's not an emissions problem.

The only thing left that I can think of is an electrical short. I would start with having both ends of the auto shutdown relay checked for a good connection and have the contnuity checked.

Secondly, I would ant to have the wiring in the steering column checked for the same thing, in particular around the ignition. I am very sure your problem is electric.

I'm very sorry your having these issues and I hope this will help you solve them.
If you have other questions please feel free to leave me a comment, and I will get back to you ASAP.
Thanks, Donnie

yes or it could also be that your starter slynoid could be messing up but id check everything once over start from battery run to your slynoid to the starter if ya have a test light testy to see if theres power going to the slynoid if not it gota be replaced

Usually, if you have an alarm system, it may have locked the ignition up. If you have been seeing a security symbol on the dash, alarm going off, ect. It may be the computer ship. You may need a code. No matter, you need to call the dealership and ask them. They should be able to let you know. The ignition switch may have gone bad. If you need anything, please let me know. I am here to help you in anyway I can. Thanks for choosing FixYa and have a good evening.

http://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/plymouth/voyager/1991 click on link to view.

trying to charge with 134a charge until around 35 lbs with ac running

Freon leak? pump gone? switch broken? blown fuse?

4.6 Northstar V8. It is located on the rear of engine (driver side) in front. It is in the the water pump housing cover. Remove air box and intake tube and bottom radiator hose. 2 bolts(believe 10mm) on thermostat housing. These systems are a little finicky about air pockets....so fill slowly and let run at idle until operating temp and let cool and check level.....fill as needed and repeat if needed.

A faulty central locking system might be due to several reasons, such as a blown fuse, faulty solenoid, or electrical wiring issues. Also, it's good to remember the fault might not be with the central car locking system but the key fob instead; over time, fobs require battery changes.

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Yes

Hi, You need to check the output on the charger first, with a meter. Let me know and we will go from there.