Philips Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

These blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Blinking codes details to many popular brand TVs are given. Surf the site with patience. If blinks continue without any pause, the main board is faulty. Counting of number of blinks to Philips TVs is entirely different to that of other brand TVs. It is not a direct count procedure. The site have details about how to count the number of LED blinks [Fault Codes] to Philips brand TVs are given; along with details of the faulty circuit location.

Try 606 or 616 one of those should work.

The tape mechanism is not loading and shuts down. Could be; Motor Belt Clutch Misalignment etc etc etc

https://www.unlockforum.com/forum/non-gsm-mobile-related-forums/automotive/free-car-radio-unlock-codes/8191-peugeot-206-philips-radio-code

Wrong board probably.

Descaling Problem SOLVED! Folks, I really hope this helps a lot of you. I too encountered the dreaded descaling problem where it gets stuck in a loop and never finishes. I thought the machine was toast and see so many reviews that people experienced this and had to return the machine. I tore apart the machine and figured out the issue and the super simple fix! What happens is the water level sensor does not know it is running out so when the tank empties due to running dry, it never completes the cycle. Where the water basin goes, if you look at the back lower down, you will see a small rectangular protrusion. This is the water level sensor that works by measuring capacitance. You know how sometimes your machine runs completely out of water and you have to prime it with the tea/hot water button? This is why! When you put the tank in full, water splashes over the edge and down the back. It coats the outside rear of the tank and the sensor with water so the machine thinks it still has an adequate level of water but then all of a sudden runs dry. The FIX: Take a paper towel and dry off the water level sensor and the back of the tank. When you put the tank in, do not fill it too high and put it in gently to avoid water spilling out. Simple as that...fixed! https://www.fixya.com/support/t7525311-machine_seems_stuck_in_descaling_mode and videos and help from Philips Press and hold (for about 6 seconds) the hot water button until the descaling light turns off. https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk00Uzvq3eDBHCFOUx_2MVtsuTL0uPQ%3A1606349189530&ei=hfG-X6TtH5Wq1QGCjanwDg&q=Seaco+Syntia+hd8837+stuck+in+endless+descaling+loop

Try the philips web site.

T3.15A 250V https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1367013/Philips-Hts3000-98.html?page=1#manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1367013/Philips-Hts3000-98.html?page=25&term=F901&selected=3#manual

That probably means you need a new remote. Or new batteries. The blinking light means it's trying to turn on but failed to do so because it's dead or old.

Sorry but fixya.com doesn't sell things and are unable to quote. Quite often the capacitor of a motor is housed in a small box attached to the motor and the design is such that only a like-for-like replacement will fit and maintain the "enclosed" design of the motor and faced with this problem, many will resort to buying a replacement as a spare part of the machine from the original supplier or manufacturer. Those that choose this route usually pay four or more times the cost of a replacement from a capacitor supplier. Phillips would usually be happy to provide you with details of their local stockists. If a capacitor with different dimension will fit the housing then almost any motor specialist or capacitor supplier will be able to provide a replacement. Link below to such a company... https://www.specap.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw_H-BRD-ARIsALQE_2OgIvdqN-v_UPllr17WeFTBB3FURp4mwBIlZpNJBH5NEUv97a5joCoaAmuvEALw_wcB

This is a rather obscure manufacturer, and Philips has no assigned codes for it. However, there is an automatic mode for programming that universal remote. It is possible that some other manufacturer codes will work with your equipment. Try using the auto codes search function and you may get lucky.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Blade+for+Philips+HR1115&oq=Blade+for+Philips+HR1115&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Use code search on the URC to find something that works. If a search through all codes stored in the URC fails, try a different one.

NON COMPATIBLE TO YOUR TV SET

What is the problem/s you faces with this device? Provide more details; please. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Faults & possible causes to LCD screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent. View the site by desktop or web view on mobile devices to see the "search box". Type in the brand name of your set in search box; to get gathered the related posts.

Deselect hospitality mode to restore normal operation.

When you performed the power cycle did you make sure all accessories were disconnected? Also plug the TV directly into a wall mains socket, not through an extension lead or socket! Repeat this test at least 3 times or until the TV powers up.

The TCON board or the LCD panel is faulty. Can confirm by replacing the TCON board . If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here. Pull up older posts. http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/The TCON board or the LCD panel is faulty. Can confirm by replacing the TCON board . If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here. Pull up older posts. http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/

Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

It need to be service because the problem is from the display panel